I'm an oldtimer when it comes to bow tuning. Been doing it since limbs had brackets bolted to themwith the wheels (now called cams) attached to them. I see lots of good advice on here for tuning, and eyeballing centerline but not a FINISHED tiller adj.
Tiller and Nock must gohand in hand. Here's my methods:
1. 2 cam bows (older style): turn limbs until bottomed out and then decrease evenly no more than 3 turns at a time each, until a comfortable draw wt is attained. Here is the best advice through this whole thing FORGET WHAT THE SCALE SAYS. Comfort is more important. Now set the limbs for even tiller measurement from the back of the limb where it leaves the riser to a point on the string where the square or other measuring device passes the string as you swing in an arc keeping the end of the meas. dev. tight on the limb/riser. Now set the noc pointor string loop and noc an arrow. Next, make a small mark at the point where the cam and string meet. Next have someone watch and someone S-L-0-W-L-Y begin to draw. (I used to do it in a full length mirror, but it is better when someon watches) Watch which mark leaves first. Loosen that limbs bolt 1/2 turn until theyboth leave at the same time. This isconsidered TIMING a bow.You can do this in smaller increments until perfect. NOW set the nock to 3/16or 1/4" above sqare using the rest mount hole in the riser as a centerline. Or attach a string loop. Now you should be square but try the drawing process again, watching your marks. It doesn't matter now ifmarksare exactly at the string/wheel junction at this point....just make sure they both move at the same time. NOW paper tune the bow USING THE REST TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS...I can't for the life of me figure out why someone does this process by setting a rest out of place then making the bow out totime to match the rest
If you can't tune it by the rest, then you needa rest more in TUNE with your skill level. I truly think this mistake all started when people boughtmicrotune target rests for hunting bows and didn'tknow how to set them up properly. Of course if you are using an old stick on ornon adj. springy rest you do itby ARROW SPINE.
HINT>>>You may also find that your bow will group best past 10yds with an inch high, inch left tear at 7ft. Give it a try....this tip was given to me on the shooting line at the worlds in Vegas by the most highly regarded spot shooter ever....Hint, he made a Wheaties Box. Improved my xrings from 51 to 59 and the one miss was me!!!
2 SINGLE CAM. Use the same basic process as above, except....Set the tiller using string pulled tight from axle to axle as mentioned above...THEN...make the marks on the cam this timeATFULL DRAW. Now adjust according to which one starts to go forward first. This one will seperate the men from the boys, or tell you if you are overbowed.Again be sure your nock is set at 3/16" abovedeadcenter andhave an arrow nocked at all times and pointed in a safe direction. Also be sure to useYOUR release.
HINT>>>> The newer model 05 newer have centerlines built into the laminations of of the grip. They are dark grey lines I believe.
This should help you get where you need to be.
If broadheads won't shoot then spin them first. If they spin true, check your arrow spine by trying a size or two up and down the scale. This is easier than screwing the whole thing up by trying to tune them andfind outlater itwas a spine problem.If that fails....PAPER TUNE THE THING ALL OVER AGAIN.
HINT>>>> This one I saved for last because I didn't want crucified yet.....Bare Shaft Shooting is OVERRATED....who hunts with bare shafts???? TUNE IT WITH WHAT YOU ACTUALLY SHOOT. Yes, Before you flame me up, I know the reasoning...but still, why check all those points when fletching CHANGES THE SPINE ANYWAY. Do youreally think adding the wt. and drag on that shaft doesn't change things???
WELL, here is 30+ yrs of shooting and tuning experience the best I can tell it.
If something is unclear, post or better yet shoot me a PM.
Dave