You have been given some good recommendations if you want to successfully use the 'skinny' carbons. They are, by far, the strongest production arrow that we've ever tested. The strength comes from the smaller diameter, resulting in a thicker wall thickness, and the point adapters which control/captivate the longitudinal forces. The advent of the drop-away rests has eliminated several of the problems that many didn't like about these arrows - mainly fletching clearance and nock bump.

There are several ways to assure good straight arrow construction. Use 5 minute epoxy as a minimum, but 24 hour epoxy would be better for both strength and the ability to adjust the point adapter. In adjusting the point adapter for straightness, an arrow spiner is recommended. Spinning the arrow and adjusting the point adapter as the epoxy cures will assure great broadhead flight. If you use the standard nocks, press them on and twist for straightness. If you use the G-nock adapters, use the same process as with the point adapters stated previously.

Check your arrows periodically, especially when grouping/slamming arrows during practice. The way to check them is to hold them at each end and try to twist it. If the arrow does not flex/twist, it is good. If it has ANY flex to it, throw it away. This means that the spine has been broken and the arrow could break further during the shooting process.

The reason many couldn't use helical fletching in the past was fletching clearance on standard prong rests. The drop-away rests have eliminated this problem so that you can now use maximum helical.

I hope this helps many better understand this much maligned arrow. I've seen 15,000+ shots on these arrow and they're still going strong.