first off i'll say you've done very good. those specs are so close i'd get the bow right, and then make it fit me.

first things first - shooting the bow w/ the cables crossing above may tear them up a bit.

i believe you'll need to flip the slide. the cable should come off the top limb and go thru the slide closest to the string. it will be on the shelf side compared to the string that goes thru the slide, and the cable will go thru the slide in the slot that allows it to be farthest away from the cable rod.

after the string rounds the idler wheel it goes straight down thru the slot that keeps it closest to the cable rod, and on the riser side.

so basically the slide goes on with the longest slot facing your center serving where your nock goes. the cable goes thru the long slot.
the string goes thru the short slot. they cross just below w/ the string closest to the rod, and the cable going 'over' it.

when adjusting one side of the yoke - always twist clockwise. i work clockwise. working contrary to the way i've worked makes weird things happen.

setting idler wheel lean, or top limb deflection, or whatever you may call it - is not so simple. it is not correct to set your ata exactly the same on both sides of the boww/ the bow at rest. it is not correct to set your ata the same on both sides of the bow at full draw. unless you shoot a martin shoot thru cable system - or a merlin one that is. any bow that has a cable slide is different - except possibly the guardian and commander - and though they may fall the same on those bows you have no real control over it.

basically a laser is used on your idler wheel w/ your bow at rest, and where your idler wheel is pointed in reference to your bottom limb or cam is noted. then your bow is taken to full draw on a torque free drawing tool and more laser readings are taken of where your idler wheel is pointing. chances are the idler is moving a bit in its tilt from rest to full draw. the yoke is adjusted so that the tilt is split around a central line of your bow. this gives you minimal left to right string oscillation throughout your shot cycle.if you set up equal ata at rest or full draw - chances are you've created the most amount of horizontal nock travel you could w/out really doing something bad.

from experience on bows of similar size - have the split occur no closer than 6" from the axle, and put about 4 more twists in the right side of the yoke than in the left if you're a right handed shooter. that's about the best you can do w/out the proper tools.

hope that helps.