Dreamin'
You're going to love using a wall tent - makes for a great retreat at the end of a hard cold day - hail, rain, snow, wind, don't matter - nice and warm. Good advice so far.

I'm not familiar with relite (campercloth?) however, I would say that with the canvas I would recommend ponying up the extra $ to have it treated for water, mildew and fire resistance. Minor detail on canvas - if it is important to you make sure you know what color you are getting, as you jump from one canvas type and weight to another sometimes the default color is not white (some times tan).

You absolutely want to use a "rain fly" it protects against UV rays, makes sure the seams don't leak, keeps in the warmth MUCH better, slides the snow off and as said before it keeps the embers from your wood stove from damaging your "core" tent.

Although I have used both traditional and internal frame setups, I currently use an internal steel frame and love it: sturdy, attractive to the eye with all straight lines. The straight lines are important if you decide to add another structure (cooking/eating area)end to end and you want to get the two to seal up against each other. With traditional pole sets the ridgepole will be straight but the eve line and the front and back "V" will have a "droop" factor - still strong - still comfy - but hard to marry two structures together that way and have it be "tight."

HOWEVER, if you are going to be consistantly setting the tent up by yourself then I'd recommend the traditional pole set: with the door zipped shut, stake down the perimiter, open the door, slide in the ridge pole, grab the uprights, crawl in and "wrestle it up" - works okay. I've set up my frame wall tent by myself, but it is not what God intended, it stresses the joints, can bend the tubes if you aren't careful, and would be near impossible in a wind.

"Things to watch for/features to consider" while you are "pricing out" tents:
(1) Get a zip open window in the end opposite the door. That way if the weather turns super warm or someone burns the pancakes or someone screws up with the wood stove and the damper at 3AM and fills the tent with smoke you can open up both ends and air it out.
(2) Since where you pitch your tent when hunting may not be as nice and flat as the "showroom floor" make sure you get at least a 12" sod cloth on your tent where it meets the ground (even if you pay extra) otherwise in places where the ground dips downward you may not have enough sod cloth to "close the cap" and you can get air leaks (and vermin) at ground level that will rob you of your comfort. The tight sealing floor set up for your wall tent is half the trick of a "comfy camp."
(3) A flap over the front zipper door, while not mandatory, is a plus since if you get wet frozen snow plastered on your tent in a store it is nice to have the zipper sheltered.
(4) Speaking of zippers, they can't be too heavy. If you are comparing specs between companies include comparing zipper weights.

In terms of "smart usage of space."
(1) We don't allow sleeping on the ground, too wasteful of space, we make everyone bring a cot and store their gear underneath.
(2) Guns are stored outside in locked vehicles, that way they stay cold and don't sweat.
(3) We camp just off the road and go heavy, so I take a couple of notched 2x4's to support the mid point of the ridgepole (on my internal frame tent) and then we load it up! We hang a clothes rack for clothes on hangers (better than digging under your cot) and is good for drying wet clothes also. We also hang our back packs to get them off the floor and hang lanterns by a rope threaded over the ridgepole which allows you to lower the lantern for lighting or refueling and then raise it for best light distribution (plus they don't get knocked over up there!).

Ultimately, you are going to be faced with "price creep" so if you need to do some trade offs consider ponying up for those things you can't change later. Once you pick the fabric and the treatment of it you are stuck with it (for example). Things that can be added later include: extending the sod cloth (after a drafty first year of use), adding the window, or switching from a traditional poleset (cheap) to an internal frame (expensive).

I bought mine from Davis Tent in Denver but there are lots of them out there, especially in Montana. I have a 16x20. A common standard is 14x16. I know folks that use a pair of 10x14's end to end and wouldn't trade for anything else.

Good luck,
EKM

Good judgment comes from bad experience! Half of elk hunting is knowing what NOT to do!