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Old 03-07-2007 | 10:09 PM
  #24  
Rebel Hog's Avatar
Rebel Hog
Dominant Buck
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 26,323
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From: WC FL
Default RE: Gun Safes

ORIGINAL: cascaded

A couple questions for Rebel Hog, it is obvious you are an expert on the subject and I am always happy to learn.

1) Does the Ft. Knox safe (entire safe, not just parts) have a UL listing?
According to the UL Laboratories they do.......IMO they do have tool attackweak spots.
It is my understanding that for a safe to have a UL listing, all the locking mechanism has to be the same from safe to safe.
Well, as long as the locks are UL rated, it could be Sargent & Greenleaf, La Gard, Diebold or Mosler and have at least3 tumbler's.
Thus a person wanting to break into a safe would have a blueprint of the internals of the safe and know where to attack.
Well, there aresafe plant employees that give that information out or sell it to safe burglars. But not just anyone. The ones who buy this information have all the tools to do any safe.

When and if you ever needa safe man to do work on yours, don't call one over the phone, go to their place of business and see if he hasphoto ID and make sure he is Bonded and has active license. This is another chance you take when having your safe worked on! As long asthey or hehave been established in your town for years and is not a Gypsy safe man, No Worry!
2) Regarding fire protection. Isn't fire protection and heat protection two different things?
Yes, it's explains it in the Spec's I posted....1850* external, 350* internal.
Sheet rock is used in many safes (don't know offhand what Ft. Knox uses).
No, they don't useSheet Rock in safes. It'spoured in the walls of the safe (can't remember the name).
The heat alone from the fire is enough to destroy the contents even if the fire never reaches it.
According to the Fire rating of Exterior Temperature and for how long it can take it? That's a choice of the buyer......After those ratings, yes it will burn the interior.
It is my understanding that the protection needs to contain moisture to be an effective heat barrier.
Yes notice the Ratings I posted.....1850*/350* and that is for the specified length of time they give you for those spec's.

Water has a high heat index, meaning it takes a lot of heat to raise the temperature of water.
212* at sea level to boil
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
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