The basic equipment besides arrows and a quiver are a shooting glove or finger tab, arm guard, stringer, spare string and bow square. I always recommend getting a string serving tool and learning how to use it. Servings are the wrappings on the string, on the end loops for endless strings (as opposed to flemish strings that have twisted/braided loops) and the center serving where you grab the string to shoot. They always seem to break when you're at the geographically furthest point from an archery shop, so you need to know how to repair and replace servings.
My favorite shooting gloves are the berlin and damascus gloves. The berlin gloves are made from thick deerhide and protect your piddies pretty well. The damascus glove is made from thin leather (goathide?) and I get a smoother release with it. But it doesn't protect your fingers from the string nearly as well. I also like the old red and black black widow finger tab as well as the Neet tab with the thick felt spacer. Lots of different personal preferences in this area though and it will take some experimenting around to find what you like.
There are two primary ways of gripping the string and lots of variants of the two. The 1 over - 2 under split finger or mediterranean draw that you describe. The other is the 3-under draw where all three fingers are under the nock.
Most longbow shooters shoot instinctive, meaning they concentrate on the exact spot they want to hit, draw, point and release. My style is to use instinctive on the closer shots, 20 yards and under, then use a type of gap shooting on longer shots.
Gap shooting is figuring out just where, in relation to the target, you can point the tip of your arrow as you anchor so that the arrow will hit center when you shoot. On close shots, the gap is well below the target, and the gap gets closer to the target as the distance increases. At some distance (varies according to the individual and his bow/arrow setup) the tip of the arrow is exactly in the target. That is called your 'point on' range. Beyond the point on range, the gap is above the target.
I've never used a rangefinder for bowhunting. Always figured if it was far enough away that I had to use a rangefinder, it was too far for me to shoot. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> I leave it to someone else to answer that.
Markings on the bow usually go something like: 66" AMO 50#@28"
That means the bow is 66" long according to AMO specifications (Archery Manufacturing and Merchants Organization) and the draw weight is 50 pounds at 28".
Other advice besides practice, practice, practice is enjoy, relax and have fun. Also, try to find some traditional shooters living nearby that you can get together with and do some heavy brain picking.
Glad you've decided to explore traditional archery. Just be sure to wear your hip waders around stickbow shooters. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>