That was sort of butt head answer I guess. Can you tell me if your peak weight is actually 70 lbs, or if it is just maxed out and you assume it is 70 lbs. Many bows peak out above what they are rated at.

what is your actual draw length, not your arrow length but your AMO draw length.

What is on your string, like what sort of peep sight do you use, does it have a rubber alignment tube? Anything else on your string other than your loop like a brass nock or something?

It would be really nice to know how fast your bow will shoot a specific weight arrow.

I have a really accurate program I can run this thru that will tell us how close your arrows are on spine.

When shooting a release you can't really count on the listed fixes. Just because it says "X" tear equals this problem and you should do this to fix it does not always work with a release. Sometimes you need to do the opposite to fix it.

I right to left tear probably has nothing to do with your nocking point height, or how your arrow lines up with the hole in your risor. As long as you don't have contact issues with your shelf or rest the way you have it should be fine. If you had a problem with this you would be getting nock high tears, not side to side.

The problem you are having could be any number of things. From weak spined arrows to poor grip or form. It could also be contact issues with your rest or harness. This is usually the first thing you look for when setting up a bow though.

These are the reasons I don't hold a lot of stock in paper tuning, too many things can effect the outcome to make it an accurate tuning method. And shooting bullet holes at one distance really doesn't mean your bow is tuned well either.

Getting field points to group with fixed blade heads has a lot to do with proper form, very well matched arrows and having the spine as close to what it needs to be as you can.

Did that help you any? I wish I could tell you "try this" and fix your problem, but it may not be that easy.

Paul