You did say treestand hunting, right?

That means, no accessories that are designing primary for accuracy. You want accessories designed to handle the varied and tough conditions of hunting from a treestand. Treestand shots are typically very very close, but at some pretty odd angles with your body in some pretty contorted postitions.

First, throw any string peep away. They interfer with field of view and can prevent low light shots in some situations. It will be prone to not working, breaking, twisting, clogging with rain, ice or snow. They can be noisy, add weight to the string, and can move unexpectantly. I hope you get the idea that they have no place on a hunting bow, in my opinion. Instead, get a no-peep. Even if it breaks in the field, you can still shoot. With the no-peep, pendulum sights are unnecessary. It will make sure you have the correct grip and eye alignment that is usually difficult to obtain on shots at steep angles. All you need to know, is the horizontal, level distance from the base of the stand to the target.

Sight - Single fixed pin with a very bright large pin. No need to have to think about which pin to use. Everyone I know, who has bow hunted for 25-30 years with multiple pins, has missed deer because they used the wrong pin by accident. Inside 30 yards on todays bows, there are only minor adjustments needed in where you hold your single pin. I use an HHA Brushfire sight. Very rugged all metal contruction with a super bright pin. I bought the optional sight light, but I will never need it. If I can see the deer, this pin is also visible.

Rest - For hunting out of treestands, you should have a full capture rest. Many types are on the market. I'm a big fan of the wisker biscuit. 99.99% of the time, the rest simply holds the arrow. Only for a fraction of a second on each shot does it do anything else. If there is a difference in accuracy between prong rests and full capture rests, it's only noticable by a target shooter. I don't notice any at all. However, there is a huge difference in how they hold the arrow. In a treestand, your arrow will be off the rest more than it's on, if you don't use a full capture rest.

Silencers - I highly recommend limbsavers, Sims cable dampeners and string leeches. There are many good stabilizers that will do the trick. I think it's important to try them on your bow and see which one works best with your combination. Not all are equally effective on every bow.

Arrows - I like carbons for their toughness. At the distances I shoot animals, any accuracy concerns are not a concern. Buy the best offered by any particular manufacturer. Arrows are more important than the bow or the accesories, so don't go cheap here.

Broadheads - Fixed blade are all that I will consider for big game. When tuned properly, they will work every time. There is nothing that can go wrong with them. I'm a fan of Muzzys, but there are several good ones.

Quiver - I do not have a bow quiver on my bow and never will. They are too noisy, get in the way many times and are a general pain in a treestand. I'd get whatever I can easily hang within reach. My quiver bracket is attached to my treestand, so my quiver is always in the same spot and within easy reach, just not stuck to my bow. Your bow will also balance better and will be much lighter to hold for hours on end. This makes a significant difference, yet I see few hunters who take the quivers off their bows.

Release - far too personal for you to pay any attention to anyone's preference. Just pick a good one, not a cheap one. I use a Truball Tornado Deluxe. Very well built and very smooth and quiet on the shot. Lots of adjustability in this release to accommodate personal preferences. However, it is an index trigger release, so you'd have to like that style to even consider this one.