First of all I think you are being unrealistic about your range. I don't care what draw weight you are pulling 40 yards a long shot at a deer. I wouldn't suggest that sort of distance for a new archer regardless of how much energy the bow had. And then when you factor in less draw weight and most likely a shorter draw you better be VERY accurate at judging yardarge and reading body language. Otherwise you are just beggin to wound an animal. And if she wounds a deer in the beginning I bet it will ruin it for her and she will most likley give up.

Where do you live that you can't the deer in closer than 40 yards?

And draw weight is one of the biggest factors in whether a bow fits you or not. Too much draw weight can make you shoot as bad as too long of a draw length. Not to mention what happens when she gets in the stand and can't draw the bow on the animal. Shooting from a stand after sitting for hours is not the same as practicing in your back yard. I saw a video of a lady that couldn't draw her bow on a deer and she started crying. In my opinion who ever let her go out whith that set up should be kicked.

I actually did this to myself once a few years ago. I was playing with my bow doing some modifications (I'm a bit crazy at times) and got the draw weight up to around 70 lbs (60 lb bow). I shot great with it in my yard and was probably shooting over a hundred arrows a day every day after work at that time. I went out hunting with it that season feeling very confident. I had always been worried about my bow being under powered for deer. Even though I didn't have trouble killing them in the past? I only have a 26 inch draw length.

I got into the stand and set up and sat for a while. Things were slow so I decided to stretch out and maybe draw my bow a few times. I'll be darned if I couldn't pull that thing back in the stand after sitting for an hour. I finally got it back but it took a few tries. Man am I glad I didn't see a deer that day. I packed everything up and went home to reconfigure my bow to the way it was before. Went out two days later and killed a nice 7 point at around 20 yards with no problems. Why I felt I needed to mess with a good thing is beyond me?

I don't suggest shooting the bow maxed out either. I have done several tests with my bows and cannot prove in any way shape or form that they perform better with the limbs bottomed out or not. They will perform better when the draw weight matches the arrow spine, which is why they are adjustable. If she can draw 60 lbs comfortably (I wouldn't count on it) get her a 50-60 lb bow and set it in the middle. Then pick the proper arrows, set it up and let her learn how to shoot. When she shoots good enough to tune start doing that. With the bow set to mid range this gives you some leeway to tune for spine if it needs to be touched up. Between this and changing tip weight it is much easier than changing the arrow length or getting new arrows if you find out you were wrong on the spine choice.

If she can only draw 40 lbs then get a bow in that weight range. Most states are going to require at least 40 -45 lbs of minimum draw weight. Not all though, I don't think MI has a minimum draw weight. Most states do though. Some have a minimum arrow weight as well. Which can be a real hinderance to a small framed archer. The extra weight will help with penitration but will kill your trajectory (limit the range at which you can shoot) and will also make it hard to find a properly spined arrow.

I would also suggest a new archer shoots for about a year before they actually hunt. This gives them time to get used to shooting and get confident in their abilities.

These are just my opinions though, take them for what they are worth. Except the shooting a bow maxed out, it really doesn't make a difference. The only thing it effects is the effeciency of the bow. Some of the older bows were a bit louder with the limbs backed off, but that is not the case anymore. I think this myth ranks right up there with having to have your blades lined up with your fletchings.

Paul