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Old 06-30-2006 | 10:04 AM
  #31  
Paul L Mohr
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,293
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From: Blissfield MI USA
Default RE: Drop away or fletching contact rests?

I have used or set up virtually every type of rest out there at one point or another. I don't work at a shop, but have many friends that bring their bows to me to set up. And I like to tinker, I think have about 5 different rests in my tackle box right now.

I don't care for the WB, but it has nothing to do with how it functions, I just don't care for how it adjusts is all. I like rests with a bit more tuning capability and easier adjustments. Other than that the WB has to be the most simple rest on the market next to a flipper rest or shooting off the shelf. If I did spot and stalk type hunting I would seriously consider this rest.

I personally don't feel a drop a way is the purest form of releasing an arrow. Sure they do good job of getting an arrow off with no contact. Providing you have them set up correctly with the right fletchings. I have seen a ton of drop a ways that have fletching contact though because they were not set up correctly. The people just assumed that since they had a drop a way that problem was solved. Every bow I have put a drop a way on required me to adjust the knocking point and tweek the tune on the bow.

The other problem with drop a ways is there are too many myths surrounding them. Too many think they are more accurate and let you get a way with more things as far as form goes. This is simply not the case. Most are actually more critical of form because they add an overdraw to your bow. And they are still susceptable to torque issues because the arrow is going to go where it is pointed at full draw, regardless of what type of rest you have. A drop a way is not going to change that fact. Almost all shots that get messed up get messed BEFORE the shot, not during. You just don't know it. And if your drop a way is set up properly the arrow still rides on the rest while it is leaving, then the rest falls just in time for the fletchings to clear. Other wise your arrow would be dropping as it is launched. So the same chances to mess the shot up during the shot are still there, especially of you have a longer draw.

I have also never seen a drop increase speed, at least to a degree that a chrono is accurate. Same with a WB, I'm sure it slows the arrow down some, but not to and extent you would notice. Chronoes really are not accurate to 1 or 2 fps any way, so why worry about it. Now if you don't set them up correctly then they do cost you speed. Another thing I don't like about the WB is it is not very forgiving because it is a full cantainment rest. Not every one shoots the same, some need a slight high nocking point or slightly to the left of center rest adjustment, Maybe they slightly torque the bow at full draw? I actually prefere a high knock setting myself. If you don't shoot a WB right down the pipe you will have a hard time setting it up and will get a fair amount of friction and wear. It's a simply rest, but with simplicity comes draw backs I guess.

I personally like a good prong rest or blade type launchers. I currently have a bodoodle and love it. I also like the quicktune 3,000, and the better GFK rests like the 3-D rover and up. And they are even better with a blade on them. The best I have ever shot was with a cheap 20 dollar TM hunter prong rest. It was a pain to set up, but once they were set up they worked every time. The better prongs rests are just easier to fiddle with is all.

And with a properly set up prong rest or bodoodle type rest they work simular to a drop a way anyway. The force of the arrow leaving the bow pushes the prongs or blades down out of the way and comes back up when the arrow is gone. This is why spring tension is so important. Most have them set WAY too stiff. If you paper tune (I don't any more) and you have a tail high tear that you can't rid off no matter where your nock setting is chances are you spring is set too stiff (with a prong rest or simular). The arrow is pushing the rest down as it leaves, then it is bouncing back up and hitting the arrow again before it clears. This pushes the tail of the arrow up giving you the knock high tear even though you have a low knock setting. I have a seen a drop a way do it as well. The arrow was actually bouncing off the rest or shelf because the knocking point was so low or the rest was dropping too fast.

I will be honest though, I get some contact with my bodoodle, However I shoot feathers with a blade type rest so it doesn't effect my shot at all. I love this rest, it just plain works for me, and that is all that counts. I could cure the contact issue if I want to go to a smaller profile fletching, but I don't want to. In order to have one of the feathers clear my cables when I draw I get a slight amount of contact on one of the blades of my rest. A few years ago this would have drove me nuts, but the more I shoot the less I worry about stuff like this. As long as the arrow goes where I want it to I'm not really worried. I mean I know people shooting wooden arrows off the shelf with no sights and rest that are pretty darn accurate. I think some of compound guys worry a bit too much. Archery is more mental than it is about the equipment.

This doesn't mean I don't like drop a ways, I do. I have a drop zone and a muzzy on my other bows. I like the muzzy the best. The drop zone is ok, I just don't care for the string on my cable is all.

It really just boils down to what you like in the end. What ever you feel most comfortable with is what you will shoot better with. If you shoot better when you switch rests, chances are it was either in your head, or you got this set up a bit better than the last one was. None of them are really any better than the others. They all do the same thing, just in a slightly different way is all.

And if you have trouble keeping the arrow on a rest, it isn't the rests fault. Your bow is either set up wrong, you are drawing too much weight, too much length, your form is wrong and/or you need to practice more. You should be able to draw your bow straight back smoothly without the arrow dropping off the rest. If you can't do that you have more problems than what rest you should use.

Just my opinions any way, and nothing more.

Paul
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