We all have our opinions on what is really important for a hunting bow. Some are fanatics about speed, while others prefer to concentrate on accuracy. Myself, I've always tinkered in the direction of choosing accessories and modifications that make a bow more quiet, and I have been willing to sacrifice both speed and a little accuracy, if necessary, to get it.
It is my opinion that the most important aspect of bowhunting is, how close can you get to your quarry. If you can get close enough, it will make up for poor shooting, slow bows and most of the other things that can go wrong when a large buck is in front of you. However, when you get real close (inside of 20 yards), deer have a greater reaction to noise. If they're really, really close, then it won't matter, but if they're in that 15-20 yard range, then "jumping the string" will become more of a concern. This is my main reason for wanting extreme quiet. I'm always setting myself up for very close shots and I want my bow as quiet as possible when shooting at these ranges.
I'm currently shooting a Martin Panther Mag, which would be considered a low-end bow, by many. In my opinion, it is low-end only in the area of cost. Even though I consider it to be quality equipment, it certainly did not come with any special dampening or quieting features. How much can you get for $285? <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> I would have rated it about average in the quiet and vibration department, for a solo cam. After setting it up the way I like to, it has become very quiet. So much so, that I frequently get the comment from experienced shooters, that it is the quietest bow they have
ever heard. I'd have to agree. I know, it’s a pretty strong statement to be made for a bow at that price level. Shooting this set-up has probably been one reason I'm seldom impressed by the new, expensive models of many companies. I'm sure I can make their pricey single cam models quiet also, but why bother when I can get about the same results from a low cost bow? As a side note, I’m shooting a 380 grain arrow at 65 lbs.
On to what I do:
It goes without saying, I add Simms Limbsavers to my bows. They flat out work as advertised. Probably no other single product reduces bow noise and vibration as much as this one. No revelation here.
Next, I add Simms String Leeches. They work great for the time that they last! I'm currently using some new ones that Simms sent me for testing. So far, they lasted well. They are made of a softer, more flexible material and have these extensions that allow the string to grip. It seems to spread out the force from the string to a greater surface area. Time will tell if they hold up, but they do work great.
All my bows get Simms Cable Dampeners. They work very well and I highly recommend them. Mine are mounted about a 1/4" below the cable slide when at rest. The follow through of the shot, causes the cable slide to hit the dampeners, thus reducing cable, string and riser vibration even more. This is probably at a cost of a very small amount of speed. Notice that I also put very short catwhiskers on the cable. One on each side.
Okay, enough of the Simms ads.
For a stabilizer, I’m using a very cheap setup. This is a 4” V-Flite by Hi-Tek with a Cobra donut between it and the bow. This is quite adequate. The bow is very dead in the hand, after the shot. I’m sure there are many good options in this department.
My string has only a loop and the string leeches on it. The loop is a homemade Catfish Loop, and it fits rather loosely. It like it for it’s adjustability and the fact that it can’t slip. For some reason, it is a quieter set-up then the standard nock set. It’s lighter and seems to actually help adsorb some of the string vibration. The loop will actually flip around to the bow side of the string, after the shot. This suggests to me that it may actually be adsorbing some of the string vibration in the process.
The next one is a big one. I added Moleskin between any accessories that gave a metal to metal contact with another accessory or the riser. This made a noticeable difference. It’s easy to see in the photo, because I didn’t take the time to trim it carefully before applying – so you could, uh, see it better in the photo. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> yeah right…
The next feature is a product of Martin’s limb pocket design. They came up with a connection between the limb and limb pocket that locks the limb in place, yet allows very little contact between the two. The limb only touches the limb pocket in two very small areas. The bottom of the limb has ball-bearing-like objects that fit into matched hollow spots in the limb pockets. These pockets are greased to allow smooth movement and a less direct contact. The limb bolt going through the limb, locks the limb in place. The limb does not and cannot touch the sides of the limb pockets. This makes the back of the limb pockets unnecessary.
Another notable thing about all my bows is the lack of a bow quiver. Bow quivers increase noise, allow arrow to rattle and so I don’t put one on my bow. It makes a difference in the overall noise, even if the arrows happen not to rattle on the shot.
I know that all this seems like such easy, yet insignificant stuff, but when you put it all together it really makes a difference. It’s a real low cost way of getting a cheaper bow to sound like a $700 bow. I welcome any additional hints and tips for quieting your bow.