I meant no disrespect to anyone all I am trying to say is bow tuning is not rocket science, George's version of supertuning is a way of setting up a bow from scratch, and then fine tuning it, I do not agree with it being used only for long distances, and who wants to go thru the trouble of putting your bow in a vise everytime you need to put a twist in the cable, here is George's way of dialing in your center shot for anyone that is interested, I know all of the tuning methods out there are used and called different things, I have been in archery for over 25 years so I do know a few things, not to say I know it all, I sure some of you guys have forgotten more than I'll ever know.
THIS IS THE SUPER TUNING METHOD FOR DIALING IN YOUR CENTER SHOT, ASSUMING YOUR BOW HAS BEEN SET UP PROPERLY AND SHOOTING GROUPS, WETHER THEY ARE WHERE YOU WANT THEM OR NOT DON'T BE TOO PICKY ABOUT YOUR CENTER SHOT, BECAUSE THE ARCHER HAS TO SHOOT IN THE CENTER SHOT ANYWAY. THIS IS DONE BY HAVING THE ARCHER SHOOT AT A 3" TARGET AT 20 YARDS, SETTING HIS OR HER SIGHT TO HIT THE CENTER. SHOOT A 3 OR 4 ARROW GROUP, WHEN THIS IS DONE, HANGS A STRING WITH A WEIGHT (PLUMB BOB) ON THE ARROW IN THE CENTER OF THEGROUP, LEAVING IT IN THE TARGET, THEN TAKE THE ARCHER TO 30 YDS OR MORE STILL USING THERE 20 YD PIN STILL AIMING ATTHE THE SAME TARGET AND SHOOT THREE GOOD ARROWS. IF THE GROUP IS TO THE RIGHT OF THE STRING, MOVE YOUR REST TO THE LEFT IN SMALL INCREMENTS UNTIL THE GROUP IS WITHIN 1" OR LESS LEFT OR RIGHT OF THE STRING FOR THE AVERAGE ARCHER, FOR THE PRO, WE WANT THE ARROW 1/4" OR LESS TO THE STRING, YOU MUST BE SHOOTING CONSISTANTLY FOR THIS TO WORK IF NOT YOUR JUST WASTING YOUR TIME, WHAT YOU ARE DOING IS DIALING OUT THE ARCHERS TORQUE. THERE IS ALSO A METHOD FOR DIALING IN YOUR HIGH OR LOW GROUPS SIMILAR TO THIS METHOD, USING YOUR BOTTOM LIMB BOLT FOR ADJUSTMENT.