Mauser the best thing to do IMHO is wetsand (with 400 grit at the heaviest, 600 would be better but will take twice as long)the coats you put on the stock. Sand it down until you get too raw wood (don't worry with wet 400 or 600 you wont hurt the wood just becareful around the checkering).
Lemme give ya a lil secret here that I learned when I was 8 yrs old taping cars and helpin my dad in his bodyshop. Whether you are paintin a car or working with wood THE most important aspect and your greatest emphasis begins long before you EVER slap on the paint/stain/finish, PREPERATION is the key. What a car or piece of wood looks like when finished is STRICTLY dependant upon how it was prepped to begin with. So take your time here and don't get in a hurry.
Wetsanding the stock and getting rid of the botched finish can be done in probably about a good hour of work. But then let the stock dry 24 hours before you touch it with anything else. Once dry look it over and if all is well then you are ready to stain it. If not then again break out the wetsanding and touch up/even up any areas that need work. Birchwood Casey makes a great Walnut Stain that with only 3-5 coats should make that dark finish you really want, plus it will really bring out the grain in the stock. But like I said, let the stain dry overnight between coats and then once dry hit it lightly with fine steel wool to knock off that "black chalk" residue left by the stain.
Once that is all done, you are ready to begin puttin coats of Tru Oil back on. Let the first/initial coat of Tru Oil dry overnight. Afterwards you can put a coat of Tru Oil on about every 6 hours. Just dipone finger in the bottle and smooth it over the stock with that one finger. Using your whole hand or several fingers will lead to un-eveness, runs and streaks. Again, with ALL type coats of anything, I recommend going with the grain especially so with the Tru Oil.
For better adhesion and uniformity (as well as allowing you to touch up and get rid of any types of runs or errors) go over each dry coat of TruOil with light steel wool. By doing that you'll also be able to determine how well the layers are working and building up. When you dull each coat of TruOil you'll see shiny spots still reamining down in the poors of the wood (and that's fine). Once you nolonger see those shiny poors after several coats, then you know you probably have enough coats on it.
Once that is done, then just set the stock aside and let it dry for at least 3 days. THEN you can add the Sheen/Conditioner too the stock. Basically it's a light wetsanding compound that knocks the sheen off the TruOil finish, but I think it also has some built in sealants so you dont compromise the seal of the TruOil. You might have to put the Sheen on the stock a few times to get the desired finish (you just put some on a cloth and polish it into the stock until dry, which usually only take half a minute or so).
THEN YOU IS READY!!!
RA