Fingers shooters can have nearly as tough a time with overspine arrows as they do with underspine. Neither will shoot down the middle. They will both fly crazy.

For a release shooter, overspine arrows aren't as bad as underspined, but they're not good either. Underspined arrows will never hit the same place twice, groups look likea 50 yard pattern with buckshot from an open bore shotgun,and the bow will never tune up with them. With overspine arrows, the bow will tune and arrows will group fairly well, butgroup sizes will bea good bitworse thanthey'd be with properly spined arrows.

For a release shooter, overspined arrows won't go completely nuts in flight and they'll shoot pretty close to point of aim. That's what makes it so hard to figure out if you're overspined or not. It takes some experimenting with different spines, arrow lengthsand point weights to get it squared away.

There's no way to make your arrows longer so, if you suspect your arrows are overspined, just put heavier points on 'em and see if they group better. Try to borrow the same arrows in the next size down and see if they group better. If they do, you know what you need to to.

You can also replace the aluminum inserts with stainless steel or brass inserts in overspined arrowsto help add weight up front and soften spine. They'll add considerably to FOC %, but high FOC is MUCH better than shooting overspine arrows. You'll have to go on-line trad stores like Kustom King, 3Rivers or Alaska Bowhunter Supply to find them. Techie stores don't get much call for such things, so they don't stock them.

Frankly, the difference in arrow weight - especially with carbon arrows - is negligible, for all practical purposes. There isn't any huge difference in arrow speed or trajectory. If you never shoot through a chronograph, you'd never be able to tell the difference.