I have the GKF TKO, which is very very similar in design. I put the 012 blade on it so there was barely any spring at rest in the blade (my arrows are 549 grains). The rest is at plunger height at full draw and as of this past weekend it shoots bullet holes now setup this way. I would just fool around w/ it starting at proper height at full draw, shoot it through paper a bit for good bullet holes the whole way from 5 feet to 20 yards, and make sure you have the stiffer blade on it (my personal opinion) unless paper indicates you need something not as stiff (inconsistency).

Your blade angle is very important as well.......it affects the stiffness of your blade drastically, i.e. also affects where your arrow sits at full draw, and at rest. Your blade shoule be stiff enough that there is barelyany flex in it between rest and full draw. I prefer to put a thicker blade on, and making it closer to parallel to the arrow to allow it to flex a bit more. They recommend a .010 blade for 325 grains and over, so I would start w/ the .010 on a 30-32 degree angle. You never answered if you got the spring steel 1 model (one hole in the blade) or the spring steel 2 model (2 holes in the blade). You may need to adjust the mounting block part on the bow to achieve this 30-32 degree angle depending on if you have the one hole or two hole model. The main difference between the 2 is the angle of the blade. Most top shooters on the TT spring steel platform are preferring the one hole model, but Cousins has to shoot the 2 hole model however and adjusts the mounting block as shown above to make the blade angle like the one hole rest.

Hope I didn't ramble on too much here..........