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01-05-2006 | 09:10 PM

#8

MrWilson

Joined: Dec 2005

Posts: 7

Likes: 0

From: Cottonwood, AZ

RE: HOW TO AIM OPEN SIGHTS

* I vary my sighting depending on the sight. If it is a blade front sight – bullet will hit at the top of the blade. Kind of like the crosshair of a scope for horizontal. My WWII sniper stamped 303 British with a Winchester proof steel barrel has a blade front and a rolling yardage rear sight. 3 inch groups at 200 yards isn’t any different than shooting with a scoped rifle.
* If the front sight is a bead then the bead covers where the bullet will hit. For years I used a 8mm Mauser vintage WWII with a rear peep and a front bead. I’d unscrew the peep sight for quick close shots. If I needed to make a 200 yard plus shot I would screw it back in. My favorite rifle, a Winchester 30/30 lever top eject has a bead front and a ramp back. Popping a coyote in the head at 150 yards is no problem if you use the cover-up method. Bullet will hit at the bottom of the bead. 200 yards bottom of the blade. Cover up the bottle cap at 100 yards. It doesn’t get any easier than that.
* Fiber optic is the same as a blade. My NEF Sidekick .50 caliber muzzleloader is sighted in at 150 yards with all three dots lined up. The 240 grain Dead Centers hit at the top of the center dot. There is no way to see below the sight. Aiming high is achieved by Grandpa Haggard’s technique. Raising the gun past the target to your aiming point on an object above the target.
Grandpa was born in the hills of Kentucky in 1893. He died at 102 years old. Every shot had to put food on the table or you didn’t eat meat. He taught me how to shoot 40 years ago with open sights. .50 caliber rabbits = head shots if you want something worth eating. Meat cost $ 2 a half pound is expensive enough. I know, 22’s are cheaper, but not as much fun.

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