This statement above is completly inaccurate and untrue. Itis also one of my pet pievestatementsand is what motivated me to post once again about this topic. I can't stand hearing things that are so far off and are spread throughout this industry by word of mouthduring coffee talk.

Three things relate to poor penetration when using mechanicals: improper shot placement, a bow (with low Kenetic Energy)that doesn't have what it takes to get the job done in the first place and aset-up that isn't tuned properly.

CamoCop,
There is no one perfect arrow for everybody, just as there is no one perfect broadhead for everybody. Match your broadhead with your set-up period. You obviously have enough KE to use mechanicals that require more KE due to their larger cutting diameter, not because they use more KE to open blades. If you have more KE than most bow hunters it doesn't make since to use the same size broadhead as they are...that is a waste of all that good, hard to find KE. Put that higher level of KE to work for you and use a larger cutting diameter blade; which will in turn give you other advantages. Mechanicals with larger cutting diameter blades have their place and they really shine when you have higher levels of KE to push them cleaning through your target.

Yes...there are some mechanicals that are junk, just as there are some fixed blade broadheads that are junk. It's your job to research and test to find what mechanicals will hold up. Don't go out and buy a cheap set of mechanicals with thin blades and expect them to perform to your standards. Take as much time picking out a good solid mechanical as people do picking out a good solid fixed blade.

Tune your bow just as precisely as with any other broadhead. Less tuning was never a reason I went with mechanical broadheads. Some may even put a fixed blade broadhead on to double check tunning, then reinstall their mechanicals and check point of impact with them also. Do whatever it takes to make sure your bow is tuned to the best of it's ability.

If you want to get real technical take your set-up and shoot it through a chronograph at various ranges like I did. Once you get a speed that takes your KE down below55 ft pounds of KE at target impact distance, then you have found your max safe effective range of proper penetration for that broadhead. You can get away with less than55 ft pounds of KE, but55 is the number I have made my personal lower level to help compensate for shots that areless thanperfect. Keep in mind this is not 55 ft pounds of KE from the bow through a chrono at 10 feet, but at the distance the kill will be made.

If your skills and accuracy match the range that gave you a KE number above 55,then that is your max distance for taking a kill shot. If you find your KE level remains much higher than your accuracy level then obviously bring your max kill range back to where your accuracy falls into acceptable levelsunder field environmental conditions. I'm certain that with your set-up you will find that your accuracy will be the limiting factor for distance and penetration, not that the mechanicals will be low on KE to gain the required penetration. If you like to take the time to test and get the most you can out of your set-up then have at it. Many peopledon't havethe time, equipmentor patience to testand tune, but if you do it sure gives you a higher level of confidence when you go to release your arrow.

CamoCop, I will recommend that you be consistant in all you do and take a second thought about using lightweight arrows as it appears you may be doing. Too heavy is bad and too light is bad. However, there is a sweet spot there that will balance speed, trajectory and momentum all in one arrow weight that matches your set-up. It's that challenge alone that gives us something to do in the off season...have fun in all your tuning and refining of your gear, for me that is as much as the game as shooting the animal.