I haven't bothered with paper tuning in more than a decade. That's how important 'bulletholes' are. Most really knowledgeable people know that the bullethole is a starting point. There is more tuning to do. So, why put all that time, effort and frustrationinto just getting to a somewhat moreadvanced starting point?

The way I set centershot on my bows... First, I eyeball the rest to center and then center the sights over the arrow. Then, I shoot a few arrows at 20 yards. Adjust thewindage on the sightsso thatmy groups arehitting center. Then I shoot a few arrows at 50 yards. If the arrows are grouping in the center at 50 yards, I'm pretty much done.

However, if they group off to the side of the spot at 50 yards, I adjust the rest. Then I'll keep shooting a few arrows and adjusting the rest untilmyarrows aregrouping in the center. Then, Igo rightback to 20 yards. Adjust the sights to where my groups are centered at 20 yards again, and repeat the process. It doesn't take more than3-4 repetitions of that to get centershot wiggled in pretty darn tight.

Remember, adjust windage on the SIGHTS at 20 yards. Adjust windage on the REST at 50 yards.

When I get my groups centered at both 20 and 50 yards, I'llshoot a few broadheads and see how they fly, compared to the field points. Usually no adjustments are necessary.

If you can't shoot good groups at 50 yards, then do it at 40. Even 30, if you have to. Just be aware that the further you can shoot good groups, the more precise you can make your adjustments and the less time you'll spend doing it.

Now, as to why you're getting a bad tear with the rest centered... I think it's due to:Badly underspined arrows; or, your grip sucks and you're torquing the bow terribly bad; or, you're dropping your bow arm when you release the arrow. If it's one of those last two then some of it is the rest you're using. It can really magnify any problems you're having with torque or bad follow through on the shot.

And it could be a catastropic combination of all those things.