WHEW SOME real diehard muzzy shooters here![8D]
Gimp you're right,but when I was a beginner I didn't know any better.I wouldn't expect any other beginner to know any better either.When 99% of newcomers buy broadheads they screw them on,and go shooting,so with that in mind I recommend heads that are already sharp.As much as there is to learn with archery....I'm sure we want them to have to also learn how to properly sharpen blades.I say if you want to sharpen blades you make that decision when you feel like you are ready to take it to that level.As much as broadheads cost nowadays they should be sharp from the factory.That's just like saying you would like to buy a new truck,but you'll put the motor,and transmissionin yourself.It's a package bro,It should be ready to go out the box.

Soilarch,You have a nice theory,but ponder this.....GenerallyI doshoot heads around 1 3/16"-1 1/2".I have never shot a broadhead under 1 1/8" diameter.Whichis a smaller diameter than the vanes..BUT those RM ti's slice all the way through.[:-]So,broadhead diameter being smaller than vane diameter has nothing to do with it.IMHO.It is the sharpness.Some of the heads that have gut pulled have 1 3/16"-1 1/2" diameter.

Again...
Thunderheads...cut...1 3/16"
RM ti'...cut...1 1/8"
snyper..cut...1 3/8"

shockwave..no cut..1 1/4"
rocket steelhead 125..no cut...1 1/4"
muzzy..no cut..1 3/16"

I was more disappointed in the shockwave than the others.NAP makes awesome blades,but what it comes down to is the grade.It is knife grade..where as thunderheads,and spitfires are diamized..surgical steel.

Finally Mr.Parsons,You're exactly right!I have never had bowhunters class.There's no such thing here.I am self taught.I learned by reading books,and looking at anatomy charts.I know where to place my shots.Did you know you can spine a hog,by hitting him a hair high in the center of the shoulder?It's because his head is so low to the chest cavity.Sir...you can make a double lung hit,and still come out bad.You may only clip the back of the off side lung,but you can do it.

I have said before,and will say again.I have had certain brands that are sharp,and cut all the way through without pulling intestines on 1/4 to shots.I have over 160 hog and deer kills to date.1/3 of them being with bow.I am not a rookie.I have cleaned in excess of 200 animals.I know the anatomy of my quarry.

I will tell you a deer may not look quartering,but may very well be,and have had my share of deer move upon release.I have had them turn towardsme to run when the feelthe arrowentering their body.

Since you asked my preferences I will tell you..

Fixed..Rocky Mountain Titanium 100gr,Thunderhead 100gr
Mech...Rocky Mountain Snyper

They all are sharp out of the package.They will not let you down.They will cut all the way through.They all fly consistantly,however I would recommend the Ti's for bows over 260fps.The smaller 85gr thunderheads fly very well with fast bows,so I have been told.I have not tried them yet.As you know,smaller diameter heads fly better at faster speeds.It's been fun.

A final question..Are you trying to convince me or yourself?