If you could do ony one plot, and do it RIGHT, that is easy ... white clovers. (Hubam, New Zealand, Kura, Dutch white, Ladino)

A variety is best if you have the equiptment, time, and space, to do it well. Clovers is always first choice, then soybeans, corn, winter wheat, oats, brasicas, winter rye.

Too many half a$$ attempts are made by throwing down a bunch of commercial seed mixes and some 10-10-10 thinking they are creating a great food plot.

A soil test is always first, followed by the recommended Lime application recommended by a good university soil test. If your PH is not above 6, you are wasting fertilizer because most of it is becoming bound up in the soil and not available to your seed of choice.

A recommend fertilizer application for legumes (clovers, alfalfas, trefoil), on a new plot might look something like 0 nitrogen, 60 lbs phosphorus, and 180 lbs potassium per acre. You can never get there with 10-10-10. 10-10-10 is for little old ladies in their flower garden, and guys who don't know what they are doing. If you need Nitrogen, 46-0-0 Urea, 100 lbs has as much Nitrogen as 460 lbs of 10-10-10. Potassium 0-0-60, 100 lbs has as much potassium as 600 lbs of 10-10-10. Phosphorus is getting harder to get do to polution run off, 0-42-0 is great if you can find it. Otherwise your phosphorus recommendation will have to be had in a mix such as a 10-20-26. Mix your own fertilizer to get exactly what your specific seed requires, you will apply less lbs, and save time and $ in the end.