I am one of the ones that still uses BB in both my sidehammers andinlines + plus my trap guns. BB melts the plastic fouling in the chokes (you won't believe how much plastic fouling is reduced in your screw in chokes) and reduces the apparent plastic fouling that you are suppose to get from the sabots in ML'ers.

I have not read all the post in this string so I do not where the sentiments lie, I do know that it works for me and has not presented me any problems. I beleive I have been using it for about 7-8 years nows in 10 different ML'ers that I own.

I do not get plastic fouling or even the crude ring shooting t7 in any of the ML'ers. I very seldom if ever need to use a bronze bore brush or anything abrasive in the barrels. I believe that BB and in combintion with a good light weight bore oil, that my barrels are protected.

I know this is and will continue to be a discussed topic and people are going to do what has worked for them or what ever advise they have received from another "professional."

I think thebiggest difference that exists is the method that the BB is applied. It took me a couple of years to work up an application method that seems to work for me. I wish I could find a copy of the steps on one of the many different sites that I have written this same reply so I could just copy it here....

I do believe if you apply it to a hot barrel it will be sucked into the pores of the metal. I have conventinal steel barrels, green mountain barrels, factory barrels TC, CVA, & Austin Halleck, also Stainless Steel barrels on a couple of inlines. Using the hot application I have seen it disappear into the barrels.

I do not BB everytime I clean, only the times that I use boiling water and really heat the barrels. Immediately afer swabbing the barrels with boiling water I will run a dry patch down and completely dry the barrel. Then while the barrel is still hot but dry I will apply a BB to abore swab and run that downin and out of the barrel, usually more than one time. When the brush comes out it will come out completely dry and sucked clean of bore butter. Then swab the barrel again to get any excess out. Allow the barrel to cool and swab (dry patch) again to get any excess BB butter. After the barrel has cooled enough to handle with bare hands I do apply bore oil.

I also do not shoot a perfectly clean or dry barrel barrel. During hunting season my barrel will have a light light coat of bore oil and in combination with the bb in the pores and the light coat of oil I am confident in its protection and it's accuracy.

This treatment has given me outstanding accuracy and protection for several years now in rotten Idaho winter weather and spring/fall target shooting.

Remember this works for me, but may not give you the same results. I shoot only sabotted bullets and t7 in all of the ML'ers and I shoot a lot, except during the summer. I always am somewhat reluctant to flat out say this but - I do not have a problem with plastic fouling or the crud ring, because tomorrow when i go to shoot you know what is going to happen... Cleaning for me is not a real chore, well it is a chore compared to my centerfires, but it is not a nightmare.

Good luck to all this hunting season