One thing to keep in mind about bow length. A recurve's length is measured following the contour of the limbs. It's actual length when strung up will be around 4" less than it's AMO length. So they aren't really as long as the numbers make them seem.

Longer bows are more stable and easier to shoot accurately, for sure. I think a good length for a beginning bow for someone with your draw length would be between 58-60". Once you get your recurve shootin' form down and are getting pretty good, then you might start experimenting with shorter bows.

For someone who regularly shoots a 70 pound compound and is just starting with a recurve, I wouldn't recommend getting anything heavier than 50 pounds, and 45 pounds would be even better. The lighter you go in draw weight on a beginning bow, the shorter your learning curve will be. Once your muscles get used to the different way they are being used with the recurve vs the compound, you can start working your way up in draw weight.

About arrow weight, you've got some retraining to do. You can go super light on arrow weight with hard cam compounds because the bows generate enough energy to give those light arrows enough momentum for good penetration on game. Recurves don't give you a lot of energy unless you go way up in draw weight. So, you have to rely on arrow weight to give you the same penetration potential you get with your compound.

For instance, a 700 grain arrow at 150 fps has the exact same momentum as a 350 gn arrow at 300 fps. Even though the 700 gn arrow is only carrying 35 ft lbs, penetration potential will be very similar to the 350 gn arrow with it's 70 ft lbs of energy.

I think it's best to keep your arrow weight between 9-12 grains per pound of draw weight with a recurve. Your actual arrow weight will be much lighter. and a good deal faster, than the arrow in my example above.

Arrow length. Some guys like to cut their arrows so that the back of the broadhead blade will touch the index finger on their bow hand at full draw. They mount the broadhead vertically on the arrow and use it as a draw check, to make sure they're drawing to their anchor. I'm kinda skittish about getting a sharp blade that close to my finger[:-] so I like my arrows long enough to keep the blade 1/4" to 1/2" inch in front of that index finger. My personal preference.

The real deal though is to cut the arrows' length so that their spine matches your draw weight. With compounds, you tune the bow to the arrow. With recurves, you not only tune the bow but also tune the arrow to the bow.

Don't worry. It all sounds a lot more complicated than it really is.