RE: Alot of questions about wood arrows.
Guss, I don't think you realize the size of the project you are thinking about. Turning your own shafts, at least decent ones, is going to take a lot of time, wood, and patience. You will need tight, straight grained wood, and you will definately want consistent spine. This means getting a spine tester and learning how to use it properly. You will also want to stay within a reasonable weight range--I like no more than 10-20 grains difference in my arrows. You may get several different spines out of the same board, and you will have to cull a lot of wood due to grain, knots, etc. You will need equipment--a way to dry the wood, a moisture meter, saws, etc. and you will have to maintain them.
Maple, ash, and hickory will make a decent arrow but they are tough to keep straight. When people talk about cedar arrows, they are referring to Port Orford cedar, that only grows on the CA/OR border. Red cedar won't make a good arrow.
To get to the point, you will most likely wind up spending quite a bit more than you would if you just buy the arrows. One alternative could be rivercane, which seems to make a pretty good arrow and if it grows in your area it's free. There's a good reason why good wood shafts aren't cheap--it takes a lot of time and knowledge, not to mention the expense of buying and maintaining equipment.
I might be able to help with feathers--p.m. me for more info.
When you glue your nock on a wood arrow, align it so the string will be across the grain. Feather placement isn't important concerning the grain.
This is just the tip of the iceberg--I know very little about making shafting, other than it's a lot more work and expense than I want to take on.
Chad