Hi, this is Gary from Slick Trick. I don't post on forums very often, don't like spam and don't have a program to push the heads. I like to have average guys advertise the heads voluntarily just because they like them. I appreciate the feedback on the sharpness, always looking for any improvement I can do. If manufacturing can make them sharper they certainly will. I ship them based on running them against the hair on my arm, and I get a fine bouquet of hair when I do that. They do have a strong bevel which I prefer. Heads that may wow you with their shaving abilities with thinner bevels can dull on entry on a rib and actually be duller when penetrating an animal than seemingly less sharp blades. What really counts is cutting through an animal of course. Not too long agoa guy told me the blades didn't seem sharp, I told him about running them against the hair on my arm, and he replied backhe then found they were very sharp.Frankly I have found checking blades that they consistently get hair, if you get blades that you doubt please send them back for replacement. Certainly mean for them to be sharp, but nothing is perfect, recall a dealer posting once that they had gotten a case of Thunderheads that were dull as a bowling ball. Hard to believe, but maybe it happened. I ship heads to 5 shot to test, and don't do anything but pull a pack out of the middle of a supply. He finds they shave and are plenty sharp to hunt with, same as I do. Field reports are the same as his tests report, depending on location they bleed as well as anything, and have great penetration.And as I think somebody said, a simple carbide sharpener willpolish an edge back to shaving sharpness after if has beenquiver dulled, you just use verylight strokes many times on an edge, 15-30, and they will polish back to shaving. Speaking of penetration, guys forget to consider cut. The more you cut with a given design, the less penetration of course. Some designs penetrate better than others, and if you check 5 shots tests, no design, "cut on contact" or whatever, cut for cut, outpenetrates Tricks. Also keep in mind that bone and tough tissue is what limits a passthrough, his tests with plywood and tire correlates to what hunters find. If you hit where you aim and only hit ribs and lungs on a deer a 45 lb longbow will get a passthrough with just about any fixed blade head. In relation to Stingers mentioned above, consider that a Stinger 100 cuts 1 1/16 X 3/4", I believe, which is a total cut of 1.81". A magnumTrick 100 cuts 1.125 X 1.125, which means it cuts 24% more. Is 24% significant? Would you be pleased if your paycheck came 24% less? Would a Trick penetrate better if the blades were smaller and cut 24% less? Sure. But the trick, pardon the pun, is to cut as much in all 4 directions to cut a vein or artery and open up as good a hole as you can while having good odds of a passthrough. The 1 1/8" magnums do that. But for those who want a smaller head for even more penetration, Trick 100 and 125s, while I have not gotten it up on site yet, but you may order just write 1" STANDARD, now come in a 1" STANDARD size 3 pack. Or, if you have the magnums all you have to do is order 1" STANDARD blades which will fit the same ferrules. Some guys may choose to use the 1 1/8" magnums on deer, and switch to the 1" standards on elk or hogs. Although I informed my Africa dist of the availability of the 1" blades, and he ordered all magnums, saying they were doing fine with the magnums. The reason I tag them standard is 1" 4 blade Tricks cut 18% more than the 1 1/8" 3 blade heads and open as good or better hole. Anyway, gotta go, I appreciate you guys, andwill do anything I can to improve Tricks or please you, and if anybody is not pleased with Tricks just send them back for a full refund, THANKS GARY