I use one of the lansky or simular systems. It keeps the angle the same for every stroke. They are a bit of a pain in the but to set up, but the results are good. It takes some of the human error out it. I normally finnish with good butchers steel.

If you have a quality blade with a good edge on it you should really just need to touch it up on a steel every now and then. Stones are good for stuff that doesn't have a good edge to begin with though or a really dull knife. I have seen many ruin a really good blade by trying to sharpen it incorrectly.

And don't use a grinder or anything creates heat on a good blade, it will ruin it. And don't use those sharpners that have the two little carbide inserts in them that make a V. They work, but they take a lot of metal off when they do it. Works good for cheap knives with soft metal and a bad grind. However I wouldn't do with an expensive knife if you want to keep it very long.

The quality of the edge and the steel makes a huge difference. That is why good knives cost money. Also having the right knife and right edge for the job helps alot as well. Or how well you treat it. Cutting paper or other simular stuff is actually really bad for a blade and will dull it pretty quick. As will throwing it in the dirt or cutting things on a hard surface. Don't use expensive pocket knife to cut open boxes and stuff. Use a box cuttor or utility knife if you can. Unless you want to sharpen your knife every day.

I buy pretty decent knives most of the time, like 60 to 80 dollar range. Not top of the line, but not cheap crap either. I am pretty leary of letting someone I don't know use my knife to cut something. I had a guy use my spyderco (serrated edge) on the side of a steel table once trying to cut something. By the time I got him to stop it was too late. And once people discover you have a sharp knife everyone wants to borrow it for every little thing. Then when I actually need it for something it's dull[>:].

Paul