The quick and easy way to eliminate shooting problems with a compound is by going to a longbow. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

There are a lot of things that can be causing your problem. Centershot is definitely one, but unless your rest is moving, that doesn't explain the point of impact continually creeping to the right. Something is causing that and it's usually operator error or lack of maintenance.

Some things to try:

Grip: There is a line running down the palm of your hand between your thumb and forefinger that goes down to the center of your wrist. You want the pressure point of the handle to be to the right of that line, with the handle resting on the meat at the base of your thumb.

I've seen a lot of people that are overbowed strangle the grip during the early part of the draw then relax their hand after hitting the breakover, all the while swearing up and down that they draw and shoot with a relaxed hand. Problem is, they've got the handle torqued so much that relaxing the hand doesn't correct it. You want the bowhand relaxed from the very beginning of the draw until your arrow hits the target.

Follow thru. Trigger the release and continue aiming until the arrow hits the target. The pin will usually move away when the bow recoils, but you do not loose your focus on the exact spot you want to hit until the arrow hits it.
Stabilizer. Short stabilizers are nice and handy for toting the bow around in the woods, but a lot of people, including me, need a lot more stabilizer. Try one that's about 10-12&quot; long and see if it helps.

String/cable creep: How long has it been since you checked your bow's axle to axle length and brace height against the bow's factory settings? I've had bows 'grow' as much as two inches in length and brace height drop an inch or more due to string/cable creep. That can greatly affect a bow's draw weight (and arrow spine), draw length and 'forgiveness.' A constantly increasing draw length can make a bow do what you describe.