trees, trees, and more trees
01-06-2005, 11:39 AM
#22
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Delhi, NY (by way of Chenango Forks)
Posts: 1,706
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
not sure where ur at Strm, but in NY and other states, local soil & water conservation districts have an annual tree & shrub sale in the spring. they sell bare root seedlings (2-5 yrs old or so). many species are available (we have over 70 species in our sale this year). spring can be a fine time to plant trees, kinda hard to plant now in the NE with 6 inches of snow and frozen ground.
01-08-2005, 10:09 AM
#23
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location:
Posts: 241
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
You can join QDMA and buy trees from them at below 1.00 each. they have many varieties. Which you should consider. Remember, don't put all your eggs in one basket. If one type don't work you'd better have a back up plan. Or you could lose another seasons growth.
01-09-2005, 09:04 PM
#24
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location:
Posts: 78
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
doughboysigep,
my land is in s.e. kansas. kansas does have a seedling program for landowners and i've been in contact w/ the kansas forestry service conservation program coordinator to get more info concerning my upcoming tree planting.
seedling planting ?'s:
should i create the seedling hole w/ a shovel or dibble spade?
will using a rooting hormone stimulator improve seedling success?
what seedling protection is worth the cost? the rigid seedling protectors ( http://www.benmeadows.com/store/prod...parent_id=5633 ) seem to be the only "reasonably" priced protector.
is one type or brand of mulch advantageous?
my land is in s.e. kansas. kansas does have a seedling program for landowners and i've been in contact w/ the kansas forestry service conservation program coordinator to get more info concerning my upcoming tree planting.
seedling planting ?'s:
should i create the seedling hole w/ a shovel or dibble spade?
will using a rooting hormone stimulator improve seedling success?
what seedling protection is worth the cost? the rigid seedling protectors ( http://www.benmeadows.com/store/prod...parent_id=5633 ) seem to be the only "reasonably" priced protector.
is one type or brand of mulch advantageous?
01-10-2005, 08:48 AM
#25
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Walnut MS USA
Posts: 871
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
You definitely need a tree book. The Bois D'Arc is the Osage Orange (Bois D'Arc is french for wood of the bow. Before fiberglass, it was the best of the bow woods). Better get a hard bound book, you'll wear out a paperback.
The Pin or Willow oak is not really a good forage tree, a very beautiful shade tree and grows extremely tall.
One other tree not memtioned; Pear trees. deer will clean them up, especially after a good frost causes them to soften.
Russ
The Pin or Willow oak is not really a good forage tree, a very beautiful shade tree and grows extremely tall.
One other tree not memtioned; Pear trees. deer will clean them up, especially after a good frost causes them to soften.
Russ
01-10-2005, 10:33 AM
#26
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: La Grange, TX
Posts: 324
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
Russ-- of course I need a book. Its why I asked and have the answers but have not made a choice yet. FWIW locally the Osage Orange is called both Horseapple and Bois D Arc so thought it worth mentioning could it be referred to as crabapple also? In KS where I sent a big piece to be turned to a rifle stock(heavy but looks great) they even call it some type of bush but I can't recall that name either.
So many local names for things versus what they really are. Lots to learn. Only thing I used to know is that yellow corn came from deer feeders and deer came to them
Jeff
So many local names for things versus what they really are. Lots to learn. Only thing I used to know is that yellow corn came from deer feeders and deer came to them
Jeff
01-10-2005, 10:42 AM
#27
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Delhi, NY (by way of Chenango Forks)
Posts: 1,706
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
Here is what I have been told/do:
best to clear the area of grass/weeds
dig a hole big enough for all of the roots to fit (and a bit more)
make sure all roots are in hole and in a downward orientation
refill hole and firmly pack soil (if you want to be fancy, you can mix in peat moss or other organic substance)
water well at planting (do not leave seedlings to soak in bucket of water)
fertilizer pellets help the seedlings get going (do not put fert in direct contact with the roots - they'll burn), pop a hole about a foot away and drop pellets in
as for tree shelters:
I have never used them but they can help greatly, however it can be quite costly if planting a bunch of trees. I usually don't have much invested (I get left overs) so I never use them. what grows grows, what doesn', oh well. I usually don't spend a lot of time and cut corners and have had decent results (again, not much investment if they die)
I tried to keep track of what I palnt but there got to be so many it is hard. if you want to keep good track use marking flags.
best to clear the area of grass/weeds
dig a hole big enough for all of the roots to fit (and a bit more)
make sure all roots are in hole and in a downward orientation
refill hole and firmly pack soil (if you want to be fancy, you can mix in peat moss or other organic substance)
water well at planting (do not leave seedlings to soak in bucket of water)
fertilizer pellets help the seedlings get going (do not put fert in direct contact with the roots - they'll burn), pop a hole about a foot away and drop pellets in
as for tree shelters:
I have never used them but they can help greatly, however it can be quite costly if planting a bunch of trees. I usually don't have much invested (I get left overs) so I never use them. what grows grows, what doesn', oh well. I usually don't spend a lot of time and cut corners and have had decent results (again, not much investment if they die)
I tried to keep track of what I palnt but there got to be so many it is hard. if you want to keep good track use marking flags.
01-10-2005, 04:20 PM
#28
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Walnut MS USA
Posts: 871
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
Rost,
The name "Horse Apple" came about due to the fruit the tree produces. It is green, knobby and about 4 inches in diameter, and as hard as a rock. It was said that horses will eat them, but the ones in a pasture that I knew of, none of the horses would touch them. They're great for chasing cockroaches out of a house. Put one in a aluminum pie tin and put it in a cupboard. (The juices will stain). They last about a month. Farmers in Illinois planted them in fence rows. A thick row of them with their thorns would make a great cattle fence. (The trees originally came from the southern mississippi valley.)
Russ
The name "Horse Apple" came about due to the fruit the tree produces. It is green, knobby and about 4 inches in diameter, and as hard as a rock. It was said that horses will eat them, but the ones in a pasture that I knew of, none of the horses would touch them. They're great for chasing cockroaches out of a house. Put one in a aluminum pie tin and put it in a cupboard. (The juices will stain). They last about a month. Farmers in Illinois planted them in fence rows. A thick row of them with their thorns would make a great cattle fence. (The trees originally came from the southern mississippi valley.)
Russ
01-11-2005, 09:20 AM
#30
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location:
Posts: 78
RE: trees, trees, and more trees
here in kansas, osage orange is called a lot of things........................................ immediately after an explicitive!
imo---osage orange has served its purpose (windbreaks during the dustbowl)... we've always called it hedge, and it's fruit we call hedgeballs (real creative, huh?)... i cut all (but one) of the osage orange and locust trees i encountered in last summer chainsaw massacre (probably cut the tree population on our place in half)..... we sprayed the stumps w/ some industrial strength juice after felling the tree...... next month i'm planning to try the "barrel burner" method to finish 'em off. hopefully this will reduce the # of stumps i gotta' dodge on the tracter...
nothing will burn up a saw blade faster than osage o. and the thorns are usually everywhere.... they hurt like a bee sting (or getting finned by a catfish).......
anywho-----good riddance! when growing in groves, the straight limbs are cut into posts for fencing (our posts went to western neb.).... we actually made pretty decent $$ (as opposed to not making money on a weekend) by selling the posts... my buddy in the pic is a foreman on a 3-man bucket truck for a private tree removal contractor, so needless to say, he did most of the cutting and i stayed on the tractor...
here's what a locust looks like close up... real friendly-looking tree, huh?!?!?!
i'm going to plant 50 sawtooths, a few apple, and maybe a few pears (good idea, russ) in the clearings created last summer...
i'll plant the rest of the sawtooths along a fence row we pulled out a few years ago.... there's a narrow (50 yds by 1/2 mile) strip of native grass (switchgrass and indiangrass primarily) in between the fence row sawtooth plantings and the clearcut sawtooths planted... this tall grass should provide excellent cover and bedding areas...........
GREENTREE RESERVOIR
i think i might be confusing ya'...... i have 5-6 acres of lowland type habitat which drains around a large pond built by the w.p.a. years ago.
at some point in the future (?? years) the pond will have to be drained and 80+years of silt will need to be removed...... ya' gotta put all that silt somewhere.... the shortest distance the dozer has to push the silt the better (i.e. cheaper).... a new dike to facilitate draining will create a bypass ditch around the pond and the silt won't be able to wash back in....
with this in mind, i would like to plant 3 acres of oak trees next month (half area planted now and the other half after pond work is complete) in the lowland.... i'll will ultimately be able to control flooding in this oak marsh, but i only want to plant oaks that are classified as facultative wetland to avoid the frustration of a spring flood killing trees suited for upland settings (i.e. sawtooth oaks)...
Mallard Oaks
pin oaks (Quercus palustris) should be producing acorns within 15 years if managed properly..... the pin oak's acorn is a highly
desirable food for waterfowl probably b/c of its small size and late season maturation....
willow oaks (Quercus phellos) are also fast growers that produce annual crops of small acorns after 15 years of growth in optimal conditions...
i haven't decided which oak will be the third constitute in the greentree reservoir, any suggestions? i'd like an oak which was dropping acorns within 10 years of planting..
does anyone have any experience planting hybrid oaks?
imo---osage orange has served its purpose (windbreaks during the dustbowl)... we've always called it hedge, and it's fruit we call hedgeballs (real creative, huh?)... i cut all (but one) of the osage orange and locust trees i encountered in last summer chainsaw massacre (probably cut the tree population on our place in half)..... we sprayed the stumps w/ some industrial strength juice after felling the tree...... next month i'm planning to try the "barrel burner" method to finish 'em off. hopefully this will reduce the # of stumps i gotta' dodge on the tracter...
nothing will burn up a saw blade faster than osage o. and the thorns are usually everywhere.... they hurt like a bee sting (or getting finned by a catfish).......
anywho-----good riddance! when growing in groves, the straight limbs are cut into posts for fencing (our posts went to western neb.).... we actually made pretty decent $$ (as opposed to not making money on a weekend) by selling the posts... my buddy in the pic is a foreman on a 3-man bucket truck for a private tree removal contractor, so needless to say, he did most of the cutting and i stayed on the tractor...
here's what a locust looks like close up... real friendly-looking tree, huh?!?!?!
i'm going to plant 50 sawtooths, a few apple, and maybe a few pears (good idea, russ) in the clearings created last summer...
i'll plant the rest of the sawtooths along a fence row we pulled out a few years ago.... there's a narrow (50 yds by 1/2 mile) strip of native grass (switchgrass and indiangrass primarily) in between the fence row sawtooth plantings and the clearcut sawtooths planted... this tall grass should provide excellent cover and bedding areas...........
The Pin or Willow oak is not really a good forage tree, a very beautiful shade tree and grows extremely tall.
i think i might be confusing ya'...... i have 5-6 acres of lowland type habitat which drains around a large pond built by the w.p.a. years ago.
at some point in the future (?? years) the pond will have to be drained and 80+years of silt will need to be removed...... ya' gotta put all that silt somewhere.... the shortest distance the dozer has to push the silt the better (i.e. cheaper).... a new dike to facilitate draining will create a bypass ditch around the pond and the silt won't be able to wash back in....
with this in mind, i would like to plant 3 acres of oak trees next month (half area planted now and the other half after pond work is complete) in the lowland.... i'll will ultimately be able to control flooding in this oak marsh, but i only want to plant oaks that are classified as facultative wetland to avoid the frustration of a spring flood killing trees suited for upland settings (i.e. sawtooth oaks)...
Mallard Oaks
pin oaks (Quercus palustris) should be producing acorns within 15 years if managed properly..... the pin oak's acorn is a highly
desirable food for waterfowl probably b/c of its small size and late season maturation....
willow oaks (Quercus phellos) are also fast growers that produce annual crops of small acorns after 15 years of growth in optimal conditions...
i haven't decided which oak will be the third constitute in the greentree reservoir, any suggestions? i'd like an oak which was dropping acorns within 10 years of planting..
does anyone have any experience planting hybrid oaks?