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-   -   New to food plots. Have some question on planting process. (https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/wildlife-management-food-plots/357839-new-food-plots-have-some-question-planting-process.html)

BowhunterKS 01-29-2012 05:31 PM

New to food plots. Have some question on planting process.
 
Newbe here to food plots. Been hunting since i was a kid but never been able to plant a food plot. I finally gained access to a 60 acre peice of property where i can plant a 1 acre plot and have a bunch of questions on planting process. I have access to a brush hog, 8ft. disc, rake, and roller. All 3 point tractor hook ups. Also have a 7 gal. walk behind seed spreader.

The acre plot is an over grown crp feild. First thought was not to knock it down because of cover but after walking the property there is a huge amount of cover in the timber for the deer. Im not to for sure what to plant yet.

First question is the ph level test. Is this going to tell me if i am going to need fertilizer depending on what i plant? Or dose this just going to tell me if i need lime or not?

Second question. After brush hogging and discing, do i add fertilizer/lime, then work it in the ground with the rake. Then thow seed and work that into the ground with the rake, or use the roller. Or do i add it all at one time and work it into the ground together? This is where i get my confusion, The order/steps to plant the seed.

Thrid question. After planting seed, how often and what do you guys spray your plot with?

Also the plot will be planted in NE Kansas. Any suggestion on what to plant will be greatful. I would like to plant something maybe late summer that will last me all hunting seaon.

Thanks for the input and sorry for the long post.

hossdaniels 01-30-2012 02:55 AM

Most basic soil tests from a lab will also give you nutrient requirements. The cheap probes that you can buy will not. Add the lime, and possibly the fertilizer (depending on the soil test results) before you disk it.

I'd also suggest getting a bottom plow, or a chisel plow, or at least spraying before disking land that has been laid out that long. The disk is going to have a hard time getting started without something either loosening up the hard ground or at least eliminating the vegetation on the surface.

I have seen some people get by with out doing any of that by running the disk a couple dozen passes. That is just a lot of unnecessary work.

What to spray depends on what you plant and which weed you want to kill. For grasses in clover, I like clethodim (arrow, select) and crop oil.

I dont know enough about kansas to make good recommendations, but clover usually ends up near the top for most people.

halfbakedi420 01-30-2012 06:12 AM

might not need lime or fertilizer. people told us to lime and till....after our soil test, it was recommended that we put some triple 13 down with the seed...came out great...get a soil test 1st.

BowhunterKS 01-30-2012 09:19 AM

Thanks for the replies guys! So the soil test will tell me if I need lime and fertilizer depending on what is going to be planted. If needed, is there a recommended time to plant fert./lime before planting the seed? Or can it be planted right before the seeds?

Will all the local co-op plants be able to test the soil?

Thanks,

hossdaniels 01-30-2012 11:54 AM

In NC, we have a subsidized state lab that provides free soil test, at least for now. Several other states do, but not all of them. I'm fairly certain it will need to be shipped to a lab, but the co op may handle it.

If you need lime, shoot for a minimum 6 months ahead of planting. Few bother to do it early, but it makes a big difference on pH sensitive crops like red clover or alfalfa. Something like cowpeas or rye could probably be planted at time of application and get by OK.

halfbakedi420 01-30-2012 12:50 PM


Originally Posted by hossdaniels (Post 3906542)
In NC, we have a subsidized state lab that provides free soil test, at least for now. Several other states do, but not all of them. I'm fairly certain it will need to be shipped to a lab, but the co op may handle it.

If you need lime, shoot for a minimum 6 months ahead of planting. Few bother to do it early, but it makes a big difference on pH sensitive crops like red clover or alfalfa. Something like cowpeas or rye could probably be planted at time of application and get by OK.

i agree....no sense in wasting money to do it again, you might be looking at missing a season, but the next year would pay off better...
john deere landscapes/lesco does soil test..$45...you can mail em in and results are a week away.
also asking a nearby farmer, they know already, and soil(here anyway) is the same from across 700 acres(i know i did 2 test and they were the same(ish)). i am sure it could be totally different givin the right circumstances.
deer wont change their diet to eat a lil of what you got, cause it can take 2 weeks, then after they have to switch back..gl with that...instead, ask a farmer what the deer eat most of outta his crop, then plant that. what ever it is it should be native to the area.
oak(acorn) tree's take awhile, but is the best, longest lasting food supplement you can provide. though it could be many years before they give off.
clover is popular
peas are good, but need to be maintained....if the bud gets nipped, it's dead, hence the term, nip it in the bud.....so chicken wire on a frame over the peas helps, but 1 acre..lol hard to do.

try doing 4 types of seed that might work...draw a map, put them in different rows/areas so next year you can see what they really want and you can tripple up on that.

BowhunterKS 01-30-2012 02:03 PM

I thought about asking the local farmers but most of the properties surrounding mine cut hay. Would they still take samples of there dirt?

Have any of you guys tried sending your sample to Mossy Oak Bio Logic? It says send them a sample with $7.50 and within 36 hours they will analyze it and have your results.

http://www.plantbiologic.com/t-soil.aspx

With your experience, is it worth buying the name brand seed or is the ag seed at the local co-op produce just as good?

Thanks,

hossdaniels 01-30-2012 02:44 PM

Probably, most of the farmers that dont have gone out of business, and there is good money in cows now.

Co op seed is usually better for your specific area, but there are a few exceptions.

Soilman 01-30-2012 04:41 PM

You have a lot of good info from hossdaniels and halfbaked. Here is a link to the K-state soil lab. http://www.agronomy.ksu.edu/soiltesting/p.aspx?tabid=16 The basic test (pH, buffered pH, P, and K) will solve the vast majority of fertility issues. Fill out the form for the crops you are interested in growing, or research the crop needs after you have the results. If you are in a hurry, labs will usually put a rush on your sample (may charge an extra fee). It only takes 2 days to get a sample out the door.

Smallplot 02-03-2012 10:11 PM

just don't send in soil samples when every farmer in the county is getting theirs done and you should be fine.

psandhu 02-14-2012 06:27 AM

I was in your same situation about 15 years ago. You really need a 2 or 3 bottom plow. Trying to disk unworked ground is going to be futile. A 35 horse tractor can easily pull a 2 bottom plow. You might borrow the plow for the initial tillage. In subsequent years, you might be OK with just the disk.

Last month was the time to apply lime, although this week is not too late. I have rented the big fertilizer spreaders (ground drives the conveyor, pto drives the impellor) and had 2 tons of lime put in. One person drives the tractor and another sits in the spreader with a shovel and feeds it out the conveyor chute. The lime tends to bridge over the conveyer, so someone has to work it. A second method to apply lime (or winter wheat) is to get a ton or so in the back of a pickup. One person drives and another blows it out the back with a leaf blower.

MO and the other name brands are a waste of money i.m.o. Get ag seed at the co-op. While you are at it, get you're RUP license from the extension office. It's an open book test, but I suggest reading the book cover to cover before taking the test.

You'll also need some sort of sprayer. I built one from a 10' piece of PVC, a 15 gallon electric sprayer, sprayer fittings and hose. I had the 15 gallon tank, the other parts were about $75. I welded a cradle together to hold the tank and boom, and adapted the cradle to fit a 3 point hitch.

Check craigslist and eBay on a regular basis. It's where I've picked up my 2 row planter, 2nd tractor, aerater, ATV, skid steer, outboard, jon boat, and even some seed.

MUZZY 100 02-27-2012 10:20 AM

Get your soil test done,I wouldn't kill all the CRP but maybe position a 1/2 acre plot into the crp to work with a stand or 2. Mow out that spot sprayit with gly-round up wait till its dead,till it in with lime or what ever ferts you need and let the new weeds start growing and then spray it again .then when they are dead you can braodcast your clove etc...and cultipack it to get good soil contact.The more time you take to prep that spot the better your plot will be..

jtktbarnett 11-19-2013 11:42 AM

I have used Mossy Oak Biologic products for years and they work great. If you are wanting fall food plots, I mow it short and disc it late July. Then spray round up to kill grass and vegitation. Wait 3 weeks, spray again, and wait another 3 weeks. When I plant I broadcast the seed and add 50lbs of 13-13-13 per 1/2 acre. I shoot to plant on labor day weekend and watch the weather for rain (plant just before rain). This way you plots will be thriving come October and November after the local ag fields are cut and deer will be pounding them. I have never taken a soil sample and this process has worked every year. I plant Mossy Oak Maximum, full draw, and red/white clover. My land in is Kansas as well.


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