BowhunterKS

Newbe here to food plots. Been hunting since i was a kid but never been able to plant a food plot. I finally gained access to a 60 acre peice of property where i can plant a 1 acre plot and have a bunch of questions on planting process. I have access to a brush hog, 8ft. disc, rake, and roller. All 3 point tractor hook ups. Also have a 7 gal. walk behind seed spreader.

The acre plot is an over grown crp feild. First thought was not to knock it down because of cover but after walking the property there is a huge amount of cover in the timber for the deer. Im not to for sure what to plant yet.

First question is the ph level test. Is this going to tell me if i am going to need fertilizer depending on what i plant? Or dose this just going to tell me if i need lime or not?

Second question. After brush hogging and discing, do i add fertilizer/lime, then work it in the ground with the rake. Then thow seed and work that into the ground with the rake, or use the roller. Or do i add it all at one time and work it into the ground together? This is where i get my confusion, The order/steps to plant the seed.

Thrid question. After planting seed, how often and what do you guys spray your plot with?

Also the plot will be planted in NE Kansas. Any suggestion on what to plant will be greatful. I would like to plant something maybe late summer that will last me all hunting seaon.

Thanks for the input and sorry for the long post.

hossdaniels

Most basic soil tests from a lab will also give you nutrient requirements. The cheap probes that you can buy will not. Add the lime, and possibly the fertilizer (depending on the soil test results) before you disk it.

I'd also suggest getting a bottom plow, or a chisel plow, or at least spraying before disking land that has been laid out that long. The disk is going to have a hard time getting started without something either loosening up the hard ground or at least eliminating the vegetation on the surface.

I have seen some people get by with out doing any of that by running the disk a couple dozen passes. That is just a lot of unnecessary work.

What to spray depends on what you plant and which weed you want to kill. For grasses in clover, I like clethodim (arrow, select) and crop oil.

I dont know enough about kansas to make good recommendations, but clover usually ends up near the top for most people.

halfbakedi420

might not need lime or fertilizer. people told us to lime and till....after our soil test, it was recommended that we put some triple 13 down with the seed...came out great...get a soil test 1st.

BowhunterKS

Thanks for the replies guys! So the soil test will tell me if I need lime and fertilizer depending on what is going to be planted. If needed, is there a recommended time to plant fert./lime before planting the seed? Or can it be planted right before the seeds?

Will all the local co-op plants be able to test the soil?

Thanks,

hossdaniels

In NC, we have a subsidized state lab that provides free soil test, at least for now. Several other states do, but not all of them. I'm fairly certain it will need to be shipped to a lab, but the co op may handle it.

If you need lime, shoot for a minimum 6 months ahead of planting. Few bother to do it early, but it makes a big difference on pH sensitive crops like red clover or alfalfa. Something like cowpeas or rye could probably be planted at time of application and get by OK.

halfbakedi420

i agree....no sense in wasting money to do it again, you might be looking at missing a season, but the next year would pay off better...
john deere landscapes/lesco does soil test..$45...you can mail em in and results are a week away.
also asking a nearby farmer, they know already, and soil(here anyway) is the same from across 700 acres(i know i did 2 test and they were the same(ish)). i am sure it could be totally different givin the right circumstances.
deer wont change their diet to eat a lil of what you got, cause it can take 2 weeks, then after they have to switch back..gl with that...instead, ask a farmer what the deer eat most of outta his crop, then plant that. what ever it is it should be native to the area.
oak(acorn) tree's take awhile, but is the best, longest lasting food supplement you can provide. though it could be many years before they give off.
clover is popular
peas are good, but need to be maintained....if the bud gets nipped, it's dead, hence the term, nip it in the bud.....so chicken wire on a frame over the peas helps, but 1 acre..lol hard to do.

try doing 4 types of seed that might work...draw a map, put them in different rows/areas so next year you can see what they really want and you can tripple up on that.

BowhunterKS

I thought about asking the local farmers but most of the properties surrounding mine cut hay. Would they still take samples of there dirt?

Have any of you guys tried sending your sample to Mossy Oak Bio Logic? It says send them a sample with $7.50 and within 36 hours they will analyze it and have your results.

http://www.plantbiologic.com/t-soil.aspx

With your experience, is it worth buying the name brand seed or is the ag seed at the local co-op produce just as good?

Thanks,

hossdaniels

Probably, most of the farmers that dont have gone out of business, and there is good money in cows now.

Co op seed is usually better for your specific area, but there are a few exceptions.

Soilman

You have a lot of good info from hossdaniels and halfbaked. Here is a link to the K-state soil lab. http://www.agronomy.ksu.edu/soiltesting/p.aspx?tabid=16 The basic test (pH, buffered pH, P, and K) will solve the vast majority of fertility issues. Fill out the form for the crops you are interested in growing, or research the crop needs after you have the results. If you are in a hurry, labs will usually put a rush on your sample (may charge an extra fee). It only takes 2 days to get a sample out the door.

Smallplot

just don't send in soil samples when every farmer in the county is getting theirs done and you should be fine.