Wood blind question.
 

wood blinds get heavy, so having solid footings is a big deal IMO
I would also not rely on tapered /angled legs to prevent things from blowing over I would also anchor them down with cables!

and just MY 2 cents, I personally find a 6x6(6 ft tall) blind way more comfortable to two people than a 4x8 one
4 ft is rather narrow IMO
a well built 6x6x blind with treated lumber and flooring walls, will weight almost 800+ lbs, or all of mine I built were,
and not the easiest to get up on a platform once built
I placed most of them up about 3 ft off the ground only due to they were al built off site on runners, and hauled in on a trailer, then dragged to sites with a tractor!
if building on site, it can be a lot easier to get higher,if you have the help and skills to safely do so!

Got any pictures mrbb? :D

yeah
here are what I have handy

I prefabbed mine at home and assembled at the site. 4ft will be pretty tight once you get the walls on and chairs in. I went to 5x8 and it's plenty of room for my wife and 2 kids to join me. Also, pre-plan your window height according to the terrain and type of chairs and height of people that will be using it. My wife is not even 5' tall and has to sit on a pillow on the chair because I set the windows at a height suited for me even though it's primarily her blind. I did treated 6x6's and am 13' above ground level to the floor. 6' front wall and 5-8 back wall suits us short people well. I put it on a point of a ridge overlooking a deep valley below. If I could do it over, I would put the window toward the valley a little lower because it seems you're always inching closer to it to see down the steep slope. Basement encasement windows with light tint are outstanding for blinds. You can stand outside and barely see anything inside but it isn't too dark when deer watching from inside. After I got it in the air, I put metal siding on EVERYTHING. The flipping squirrels around here will eat anything wooden that isn't a tree! I even made a custom door handle out of a nice antler main beam, which last about a month. I may have gone a lil extreme with the carpet, insulation and paneling but she loves it and it keeps her and the kids comfortable no matter what the temps are outside.

I would build a stable foundation no matter your final blind design. Carpet sounds nice and is sound deafening. However, it will double for mouse nests and a mouse urine/feces sponge. Just make it easily removable and replaceable.

my blinds are carpeted, insulated with sheet foam, leather adjustable height office chairs that reline swivel and are quiet
many blinds are 10+ yrs old and NEVER had a mouse them, they are sealed tight when windows are down and door closed, not a speck of day light shines in them or wind blows in
its all about how well you build /seal them\
if done right, there are NO worries about things like mice, or water getting in them!
and yes they are very nice and quiet and very scent free too! being built this way!

I stopped using glass windows on blinds yrs ago, due to sadly too many trespassers and ill minded folks that liked to break them
I went to wood one's with infinite adjustment in how high I want them open, I can shoot standing up with a bow, or wide enough for any X bow, as they are wider and I like having more darkness , if I only expect things to come from one way, no hassle with curtains , as they tend to blow if windy!

and NO glare from glass /plexi glass or likes either!

not for everyone, but these blind I have made have been very nice
I hunted out of a LOT of blinds across the USA and Canada over the yrs, and sort of tried to use what I liked best in them!
thats the nice part about building your own over buying one pre made IMO
that is if you have the time and skills and desire to!

I have used them a few times over the yrs, but for me to use one, it has to be SUPER cold and even then, you can have issues with the propane flowing well, as it will freeze too!
many times you really need to shake the can's really good to get them to ignite and or stay flowing!
seem to work better if kept upside down, and then flipped before using!

you also have to make sure the blind is venting well enough to safely use them in side, windows be open good for cross flow!
and another thing to think about is NOISE< or scent!
they can make a bunch of noise IMO
BUT when your in cold enough tempos I doubt you care about the noises
the good part about a well insulated blind, is you DON"T have to run a heater non stop

and I will ad this too, I have used real small propane heaters heaters in pop up blinds and had deer within feet of me, but as in life, NOT all deer react the same to things, some will be more curious, some just won;t seem to care and well, some will AVOID a area they smell something new or strange!
BUT if the cold gets too much and you go home, or cannot sit still, doesn't matter as you won't get a deer while at home, so longer your out there, even with draw backs, the better your odds are IMO!


just turn on, warm things, and shut off

Never heard of propane freezing. If they can smell it, they can smell you so it wouldn't matter either way. I've never had a problem. It only seems noisy because you are in an enclosure hovering right over top of it. They can't hear it a few feet away, especially if it's closed up good and insulated. The heaters are supposed to have an automatic shutoff when oxygen levels get low but never trust them and take a knap while it's running. It was 22 degrees the last time I got in the blind and fired up the heater. It took about 10 minutes to get it to 68 with just a single burner cheapo from Walmart.

We use 4x4 legs for our box blinds. Build a box frame out of 2x8's, install plywood floor, and then run braces under the plywood attached to the 2x8's. Two braces are placed evenly off a 3rd center brace. We then insert 4x4's into the inside corners of the box and attach with lag bolts, washers, and lock nuts.

We used to complete stand enclosure with luan walls, plywood roof topped with corrugated metal panels, cut windows and door, use hinges to hang cut out door, and paint. We have about 5 of these installed in our hunting lease with bases that range from 4 to 6' tall off the ground. We've only had one that tilted from sinking. We anchor using steel cable and turn buckle.

We built the last 3 blinds with Baronnett Big Mike hunting blind's on top instead of the luan enclosures. The tent blind's are 80" tall and their base is 59" square. Makes for a much quicker and easier build. We take the tent blind down at end of season and store until next year. They've proved durable and should last several + years. We'll just replace the tents if they get damaged or wear out.