Wood blind question.
#1
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 585
Wood blind question.
I'm planning to build a coupe 4x8 blinds this spring that me and a friend can take the kids to next year. I was originally planning to concrete posts in the ground. I have seen several people on YouTube usuing the elavatot brackets which keeps from having to cement posts in the ground. I'm curious if any of you have an opinion one way or another. I feel the good would be easier installation and future portability. I also though feel with the post sitting on the ground over the long haul it would start to sink or rise and not stay as level. I also assume there is still a little risk of it blowing over, but I assume with the legs out at that angle it would take super strings winds so that's not a huge concern. I was only planning on having it maybe 6 feet off the ground, it might be easier to go higher with the brackets. Would love to hear your guys thoughts....
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,743
wood blinds get heavy, so having solid footings is a big deal IMO
I would also not rely on tapered /angled legs to prevent things from blowing over I would also anchor them down with cables!
and just MY 2 cents, I personally find a 6x6(6 ft tall) blind way more comfortable to two people than a 4x8 one
4 ft is rather narrow IMO
a well built 6x6x blind with treated lumber and flooring walls, will weight almost 800+ lbs, or all of mine I built were,
and not the easiest to get up on a platform once built
I placed most of them up about 3 ft off the ground only due to they were al built off site on runners, and hauled in on a trailer, then dragged to sites with a tractor!
if building on site, it can be a lot easier to get higher,if you have the help and skills to safely do so!
I would also not rely on tapered /angled legs to prevent things from blowing over I would also anchor them down with cables!
and just MY 2 cents, I personally find a 6x6(6 ft tall) blind way more comfortable to two people than a 4x8 one
4 ft is rather narrow IMO
a well built 6x6x blind with treated lumber and flooring walls, will weight almost 800+ lbs, or all of mine I built were,
and not the easiest to get up on a platform once built
I placed most of them up about 3 ft off the ground only due to they were al built off site on runners, and hauled in on a trailer, then dragged to sites with a tractor!
if building on site, it can be a lot easier to get higher,if you have the help and skills to safely do so!
#3
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 585
I might look into the 6x6, probably uses the same amount of lumber with a 4x8 floor. My plan was to pre fab the floors and all the walls at home, set the floor up on what ever base I use and then assemble it on site, making it a little easier to man handle.
#7
Spike
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 87
I prefabbed mine at home and assembled at the site. 4ft will be pretty tight once you get the walls on and chairs in. I went to 5x8 and it's plenty of room for my wife and 2 kids to join me. Also, pre-plan your window height according to the terrain and type of chairs and height of people that will be using it. My wife is not even 5' tall and has to sit on a pillow on the chair because I set the windows at a height suited for me even though it's primarily her blind. I did treated 6x6's and am 13' above ground level to the floor. 6' front wall and 5-8 back wall suits us short people well. I put it on a point of a ridge overlooking a deep valley below. If I could do it over, I would put the window toward the valley a little lower because it seems you're always inching closer to it to see down the steep slope. Basement encasement windows with light tint are outstanding for blinds. You can stand outside and barely see anything inside but it isn't too dark when deer watching from inside. After I got it in the air, I put metal siding on EVERYTHING. The flipping squirrels around here will eat anything wooden that isn't a tree! I even made a custom door handle out of a nice antler main beam, which last about a month. I may have gone a lil extreme with the carpet, insulation and paneling but she loves it and it keeps her and the kids comfortable no matter what the temps are outside.
Last edited by WVDanimal; 12-12-2019 at 03:18 AM. Reason: add pic
#8
I would build a stable foundation no matter your final blind design. Carpet sounds nice and is sound deafening. However, it will double for mouse nests and a mouse urine/feces sponge. Just make it easily removable and replaceable.
#9
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,743
many blinds are 10+ yrs old and NEVER had a mouse them, they are sealed tight when windows are down and door closed, not a speck of day light shines in them or wind blows in
its all about how well you build /seal them\
if done right, there are NO worries about things like mice, or water getting in them!
and yes they are very nice and quiet and very scent free too! being built this way!
I stopped using glass windows on blinds yrs ago, due to sadly too many trespassers and ill minded folks that liked to break them
I went to wood one's with infinite adjustment in how high I want them open, I can shoot standing up with a bow, or wide enough for any X bow, as they are wider and I like having more darkness , if I only expect things to come from one way, no hassle with curtains , as they tend to blow if windy!
and NO glare from glass /plexi glass or likes either!
not for everyone, but these blind I have made have been very nice
I hunted out of a LOT of blinds across the USA and Canada over the yrs, and sort of tried to use what I liked best in them!
thats the nice part about building your own over buying one pre made IMO
that is if you have the time and skills and desire to!
#10
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 585
Curious how many of you guys run propane heaters? I asked a friend of mine about the smell and he said he has had deer very close and never felt like they spooked because of the smell from a heater.