Starting Deer Hunting
#1
Starting Deer Hunting
I'm starting deer hunting this season in VA. It starts Nov 19, and I'm getting a .243 soon.
I need advice on pretty much everything other than scents (settled for Code Blue urines)--calls I need, when to hunt, shot placement, etc. If I zero at 70 yards, can I get away with shooting straight at the aimpoint without aiming high or low? (shooting from 10-100 yards) If not, when should I aim high or low and by how much?
How should I adjust my aim shooting from a treestand?
And, should I use Nosler Partitions or Remington Core-Lokts?
Thanks,
Riverhawk
I need advice on pretty much everything other than scents (settled for Code Blue urines)--calls I need, when to hunt, shot placement, etc. If I zero at 70 yards, can I get away with shooting straight at the aimpoint without aiming high or low? (shooting from 10-100 yards) If not, when should I aim high or low and by how much?
How should I adjust my aim shooting from a treestand?
And, should I use Nosler Partitions or Remington Core-Lokts?
Thanks,
Riverhawk
#3
I wouldn't get brain lock, there is really no substitute for the real thing.
Take a good solid rest, relax, good sight picture, control your breathing and squeeze the trigger. Once you get to the point where you can shoot a decent three shot group, give it a try at extended range and even different angles/elevations. Good form has a lot more to do with good shooting than trying to overthink it. And remember it has little to do with how many bullets you fire, much more to do with how accurately you fire every bullet. Consistency is the key.
Try it at different ranges and even from a high seat. A flat shooter like the .243 and "aim off" really doesn't figure in much until you get out to extended ranges.
Any of the top brands of ammo/bullet are going to get the job done. Shot placement is a lot more important than finding the perfect bullet IMO.
Take a good solid rest, relax, good sight picture, control your breathing and squeeze the trigger. Once you get to the point where you can shoot a decent three shot group, give it a try at extended range and even different angles/elevations. Good form has a lot more to do with good shooting than trying to overthink it. And remember it has little to do with how many bullets you fire, much more to do with how accurately you fire every bullet. Consistency is the key.
Try it at different ranges and even from a high seat. A flat shooter like the .243 and "aim off" really doesn't figure in much until you get out to extended ranges.
Any of the top brands of ammo/bullet are going to get the job done. Shot placement is a lot more important than finding the perfect bullet IMO.
#4
Calls: I like to have a grunt tube with me. Not to call them in, but rather to stop them for a shot.
When to hunt: I've found the best times are the two hours after sunrise and the two hours before sunset, although it doesn't hurt to hunt a lot longer. The main thing is to get in the stand or blind fairly early. For example, at least 30 minutes before legal shooting light in the morning.
Shot placement: Depends on your angle. Since you're using a 243, I would recommend waiting for the classic broadside shot and aim midway between the top and bottom of the chest (or a bit below that point) just behind the front legs.
Bullet rise/fall: With a 243 sighted in at 70 yards, you don't have to account for bullet rise/fall until you start shooting close to 200 yards. Aim the same way at 10 yards as you would at 100, and everything in between.
Adjusting your aim from a treestand: At rifle ranges, you won't have to worry about it.
Bullet choice: Woo boy, you've opened up a can of worms here. There are as many opinions on that subject as there are bullet types and weights. My answer would be use what shoots best in your gun. Either one will quickly kill a whitetail if put through both of its lungs.
When to hunt: I've found the best times are the two hours after sunrise and the two hours before sunset, although it doesn't hurt to hunt a lot longer. The main thing is to get in the stand or blind fairly early. For example, at least 30 minutes before legal shooting light in the morning.
Shot placement: Depends on your angle. Since you're using a 243, I would recommend waiting for the classic broadside shot and aim midway between the top and bottom of the chest (or a bit below that point) just behind the front legs.
Bullet rise/fall: With a 243 sighted in at 70 yards, you don't have to account for bullet rise/fall until you start shooting close to 200 yards. Aim the same way at 10 yards as you would at 100, and everything in between.
Adjusting your aim from a treestand: At rifle ranges, you won't have to worry about it.
Bullet choice: Woo boy, you've opened up a can of worms here. There are as many opinions on that subject as there are bullet types and weights. My answer would be use what shoots best in your gun. Either one will quickly kill a whitetail if put through both of its lungs.
#5
I'm starting deer hunting this season in VA. It starts Nov 19, and I'm getting a .243 soon.
I need advice on pretty much everything other than scents (settled for Code Blue urines)--calls I need, when to hunt, shot placement, etc. If I zero at 70 yards, can I get away with shooting straight at the aimpoint without aiming high or low? (shooting from 10-100 yards) If not, when should I aim high or low and by how much?
How should I adjust my aim shooting from a treestand?
And, should I use Nosler Partitions or Remington Core-Lokts?
I need advice on pretty much everything other than scents (settled for Code Blue urines)--calls I need, when to hunt, shot placement, etc. If I zero at 70 yards, can I get away with shooting straight at the aimpoint without aiming high or low? (shooting from 10-100 yards) If not, when should I aim high or low and by how much?
How should I adjust my aim shooting from a treestand?
And, should I use Nosler Partitions or Remington Core-Lokts?
2. If you are dead on at 70 you should be fine at 100 but I would limit you shots your first year to less than 50. Your question suggests you don't have much shooting experience. Get to the range as much as you can before you get in the woods.
3. The treestand height should not effect you aiming point with a rifle at less than 100yd ranges. Again, limit your shots to close range until you have some more experience.
4. Nosler partitions are generally considered a premium bullet and superior to Cor-Lokts, but the deer won't know the difference at less than 100yds.
#6
2. If you are dead on at 70 you should be fine at 100 but I would limit you shots your first year to less than 50. Your question suggests you don't have much shooting experience. Get to the range as much as you can before you get in the woods.
3. The treestand height should not effect you aiming point with a rifle at less than 100yd ranges. Again, limit your shots to close range until you have some more experience.
4. Nosler partitions are generally considered a premium bullet and superior to Cor-Lokts, but the deer won't know the difference at less than 100yds.
As said get to the range. Doesn't hurt to try a 2nd brand. But practice a bit with the cheaper, until you are sure it is not you.
To many hunters fail to practice. Though most people I know shoot 30 yards, and doesn't matter alot.
If you are shooting out to 100. Run a balistics calculator. I like Nikon Spoton. Path is up and back down. Decide what will give you good placement up close too, when deciding on what height to zero at. Many zero 1-2 inches above at 100.
With a 243 you may want to limit shots to vitals and kneck. Which is pretty much good advice anyways. Though I also read about people going for shoulder. I never have though.
With small caliber like 243, if you can afford it, I would use a premium bullet. I realize this stirs lots of debate. Yes I realize deer is just as dead.
I wouldn't get to worked up all kinds of strategies and such. Though I think it is fun to read about them, and gets your mind racing.
Unless you are in deer country, remember you may not get one every year.
#7
1. If you are using deer scent, make sure it is synthetic. The natural stuff has been illegal in VA since 2015. Code Blue does make synthetic attractants.
2. If you are dead on at 70 you should be fine at 100 but I would limit you shots your first year to less than 50. Your question suggests you don't have much shooting experience. Get to the range as much as you can before you get in the woods.
3. The treestand height should not effect you aiming point with a rifle at less than 100yd ranges. Again, limit your shots to close range until you have some more experience.
4. Nosler Partitions are generally considered a premium bullet and superior to Core-Lokts, but the deer won't know the difference at less than 100yds.
2. If you are dead on at 70 you should be fine at 100 but I would limit you shots your first year to less than 50. Your question suggests you don't have much shooting experience. Get to the range as much as you can before you get in the woods.
3. The treestand height should not effect you aiming point with a rifle at less than 100yd ranges. Again, limit your shots to close range until you have some more experience.
4. Nosler Partitions are generally considered a premium bullet and superior to Core-Lokts, but the deer won't know the difference at less than 100yds.
#8
Calls: I like to have a grunt tube with me. Not to call them in, but rather to stop them for a shot.
When to hunt: I've found the best times are the two hours after sunrise and the two hours before sunset, although it doesn't hurt to hunt a lot longer. The main thing is to get in the stand or blind fairly early. For example, at least 30 minutes before legal shooting light in the morning.
Shot placement: Depends on your angle. Since you're using a 243, I would recommend waiting for the classic broadside shot and aim midway between the top and bottom of the chest (or a bit below that point) just behind the front legs.
{I removed the images because I have less than 10 posts and can't post URLs yet because of that}
Bullet rise/fall: With a 243 sighted in at 70 yards, you don't have to account for bullet rise/fall until you start shooting close to 200 yards. Aim the same way at 10 yards as you would at 100, and everything in between.
Adjusting your aim from a treestand: At rifle ranges, you won't have to worry about it.
Bullet choice: Woo boy, you've opened up a can of worms here. There are as many opinions on that subject as there are bullet types and weights. My answer would be use what shoots best in your gun. Either one will quickly kill a whitetail if put through both of its lungs.
When to hunt: I've found the best times are the two hours after sunrise and the two hours before sunset, although it doesn't hurt to hunt a lot longer. The main thing is to get in the stand or blind fairly early. For example, at least 30 minutes before legal shooting light in the morning.
Shot placement: Depends on your angle. Since you're using a 243, I would recommend waiting for the classic broadside shot and aim midway between the top and bottom of the chest (or a bit below that point) just behind the front legs.
{I removed the images because I have less than 10 posts and can't post URLs yet because of that}
Bullet rise/fall: With a 243 sighted in at 70 yards, you don't have to account for bullet rise/fall until you start shooting close to 200 yards. Aim the same way at 10 yards as you would at 100, and everything in between.
Adjusting your aim from a treestand: At rifle ranges, you won't have to worry about it.
Bullet choice: Woo boy, you've opened up a can of worms here. There are as many opinions on that subject as there are bullet types and weights. My answer would be use what shoots best in your gun. Either one will quickly kill a whitetail if put through both of its lungs.
I wouldn't get brain lock, there is really no substitute for the real thing.
Take a good solid rest, relax, good sight picture, control your breathing and squeeze the trigger. Once you get to the point where you can shoot a decent three shot group, give it a try at extended range and even different angles/elevations. Good form has a lot more to do with good shooting than trying to overthink it. And remember it has little to do with how many bullets you fire, much more to do with how accurately you fire every bullet. Consistency is the key.
Try it at different ranges and even from a high seat. A flat shooter like the .243 and "aim off" really doesn't figure in much until you get out to extended ranges.
Any of the top brands of ammo/bullet are going to get the job done. Shot placement is a lot more important than finding the perfect bullet IMO.
Take a good solid rest, relax, good sight picture, control your breathing and squeeze the trigger. Once you get to the point where you can shoot a decent three shot group, give it a try at extended range and even different angles/elevations. Good form has a lot more to do with good shooting than trying to overthink it. And remember it has little to do with how many bullets you fire, much more to do with how accurately you fire every bullet. Consistency is the key.
Try it at different ranges and even from a high seat. A flat shooter like the .243 and "aim off" really doesn't figure in much until you get out to extended ranges.
Any of the top brands of ammo/bullet are going to get the job done. Shot placement is a lot more important than finding the perfect bullet IMO.
Thanks a lot, both of you. I figure I'll get Partitions, and otherwise just go to the range and practice...what should I practice with that is cheaper than a partition but shoots similarly?
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern wv
Posts: 3,647
sightin at 100, if 70 is all the range you have sight in just a tad low at 70 (like 1/4" low) you'll be good holding dead on till 275 yards or so, I'd use power points, god how I hate core-lokts. you do not need premieum bullets for va. whitetails.
RR
RR