Ruger m77 7mm mag
10-07-2012, 09:15 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pine Hill Alabama USA
Posts: 1,280
I have a Model 77 in 7mm mag. It is a later model however with the three position safety. It shot pretty lousy groups at first too. First, I installed a better trigger and got the trigger pull down to 2 lbs. Then I free floated the barrel. It will now shoot at least 1.5 inch groups with either 150 gr Coreloks or 160 gr Nosler partitions.
10-08-2012, 07:01 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Wherever liberalism must be eradicated.
Posts: 2,734
Thinking on this a bit, how long have you had this rifle? How many times have you shot a heavier caliber than say a 30.06?
I found after several range sessions that many of my fliers were because of me, not the rifle.
It has been shown to me, by the rifle, that it is far more accurate than I am, with it (this is usually the case with most hunters).
It might save you many hundreds of dollars to spend more time with it at the range, and get to know your weapon first, before you invest the money on glass and a new trigger.
What I do, when I go tot he range is take a medium towel with me, and fold it over a little to simulate the heavy clothing I wear while hunting (think northern MN and WI in November). Doing this greatly increased my accuracy, with all loads tested. I also invested in a quality range bag to help prevent slipping during the shot.
I found after several range sessions that many of my fliers were because of me, not the rifle.
It has been shown to me, by the rifle, that it is far more accurate than I am, with it (this is usually the case with most hunters).
It might save you many hundreds of dollars to spend more time with it at the range, and get to know your weapon first, before you invest the money on glass and a new trigger.
What I do, when I go tot he range is take a medium towel with me, and fold it over a little to simulate the heavy clothing I wear while hunting (think northern MN and WI in November). Doing this greatly increased my accuracy, with all loads tested. I also invested in a quality range bag to help prevent slipping during the shot.
Last edited by sconnyhunter; 10-08-2012 at 07:04 PM.
10-10-2012, 05:44 PM
#14
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Southeast Nebraska
Posts: 452
I've had this gun for three years and put over 150 rounds through it at the range. I always shoot off of sandbags.
I learned to shoot on .300 savage 99 and could shoot 3" groups with that old gun off hand standing.....
Next time out I'm going to have my buddies shoot it just to see if they can do ny better....
I learned to shoot on .300 savage 99 and could shoot 3" groups with that old gun off hand standing.....
Next time out I'm going to have my buddies shoot it just to see if they can do ny better....
10-11-2012, 11:55 AM
#15
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 194
Mojotex,
I saw your reference to a friend and a Browning A Bolt that wouldn't shoot well. I had the same problem and it turned out to be the trigger. I ordered a new trigger spring and presto a tack driver was born! You might pass this info to your friend.
I saw your reference to a friend and a Browning A Bolt that wouldn't shoot well. I had the same problem and it turned out to be the trigger. I ordered a new trigger spring and presto a tack driver was born! You might pass this info to your friend.
10-11-2012, 02:01 PM
#16
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
Heavier bullets usually hit a target higher because they recoil more and are slower...This means they are in the barrel longer and the barrel jumping up (recoil) sends them higher...Doesn't make sense to some but that's the way it is...You see this especially in handguns and muzzleloaders...
Now, to your other problems...I bought a Ruger M-77 in 1980, still have it...Now, mine is in .243 but I've done a little work to mine to make it shoot better...First, before I took it home I had the gunsmith adjust the factory trigger to 2 1/2 pounds...
Second, and this happened 20 years later as my gun shot well for years...The barrel on those guns are not free floated, they come with pressure on the barrel...Now, I have helped some rifles by increasing this pressure...Take a shotgun shell, cut a 3/4 inch section out of the middle, then cut this in half and slide it between the barrel and upper forend...Adding pressure gives you a stiffer barrel and this could fix your problem...
Now while we are on this...You are certain your scope is OK??? This is crucial...Also, with that gun you can check all the scope screws so make sure they are tight...Finally, turn the gun over, there are 3 screws...Two for the trigger guard and the tang of the barrel and one under the floor plate...To tighten these screws start with the larger one under the floor plate, tighten the heck out of that one...The other two, make sure they are snug but don't over tighten...Changing the tightness of these screws will change bullet impact...
So far, everything I've mentioned is free, so they are the easiest to do...You might even want to put another scope from another rifle just to make sure your scope is good...
Finally, I did end up shooting my barrel out about 10 years ago and I was losing accuracy...I considered rebarreling to a 7mm-08 but I had a bunch of .243 ammo so I had it rebarreled and free floated and pillar bedded at that time...
Now, to your other problems...I bought a Ruger M-77 in 1980, still have it...Now, mine is in .243 but I've done a little work to mine to make it shoot better...First, before I took it home I had the gunsmith adjust the factory trigger to 2 1/2 pounds...
Second, and this happened 20 years later as my gun shot well for years...The barrel on those guns are not free floated, they come with pressure on the barrel...Now, I have helped some rifles by increasing this pressure...Take a shotgun shell, cut a 3/4 inch section out of the middle, then cut this in half and slide it between the barrel and upper forend...Adding pressure gives you a stiffer barrel and this could fix your problem...
Now while we are on this...You are certain your scope is OK??? This is crucial...Also, with that gun you can check all the scope screws so make sure they are tight...Finally, turn the gun over, there are 3 screws...Two for the trigger guard and the tang of the barrel and one under the floor plate...To tighten these screws start with the larger one under the floor plate, tighten the heck out of that one...The other two, make sure they are snug but don't over tighten...Changing the tightness of these screws will change bullet impact...
So far, everything I've mentioned is free, so they are the easiest to do...You might even want to put another scope from another rifle just to make sure your scope is good...
Finally, I did end up shooting my barrel out about 10 years ago and I was losing accuracy...I considered rebarreling to a 7mm-08 but I had a bunch of .243 ammo so I had it rebarreled and free floated and pillar bedded at that time...
10-12-2012, 06:28 PM
#18
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Saskatchewan Canada
Posts: 6,921
Bed job required. Likely requires to have some of the stock hawged out after to ensure it isn't getting any pressure points upon heating up. I am big fan of pillar blocks when bedding just makes for better mating.
The trigger doesn't have to break at 2 lbs in fact I would argue for hunting purposes that is a bit light. My big game hunting rifles all break clean at 2.75 to 3 lbs. The secret to a good trigger isn't where it breaks but rather the no travel or creep...it should be a wall!
When results are repeatable I thing your aok in regards to optics, mounts, rest and even shooter. Though the mind can creep into the later...lol.
Ammo...JMO but your wasting money if you can't get anything to group at this point. Its a barrel/stock touch issue once she gets heated up it strings. I bet if you shot 2 groups let the rifle return to ambient and fired then next 2 shot group you'd find better results on target. Not saying thats the fix...bc it isn't but until your ready to tackle the bedding issue thats what I would do for the time being. Get your mind focused on that cold barrel accuracy, pick the right load and dial it in. The first shot is always your best when it comes to hunting... Best of luck
The trigger doesn't have to break at 2 lbs in fact I would argue for hunting purposes that is a bit light. My big game hunting rifles all break clean at 2.75 to 3 lbs. The secret to a good trigger isn't where it breaks but rather the no travel or creep...it should be a wall!
When results are repeatable I thing your aok in regards to optics, mounts, rest and even shooter. Though the mind can creep into the later...lol.
Ammo...JMO but your wasting money if you can't get anything to group at this point. Its a barrel/stock touch issue once she gets heated up it strings. I bet if you shot 2 groups let the rifle return to ambient and fired then next 2 shot group you'd find better results on target. Not saying thats the fix...bc it isn't but until your ready to tackle the bedding issue thats what I would do for the time being. Get your mind focused on that cold barrel accuracy, pick the right load and dial it in. The first shot is always your best when it comes to hunting... Best of luck
10-12-2012, 07:47 PM
#19
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Southeast Nebraska
Posts: 452
Thanks. Pretty sure I'm just going to stick with the 175grains since they grouped the best three shot groups (time to cool n between). Already had the trigger worked to 3 lbs, and the creep taken out. After this season, it's getting bedded and floated....
10-28-2012, 06:25 PM
#20
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Southeast Nebraska
Posts: 452
Nchawkeye, I took our advice. The screws were all tight. So I then did your suggestion about a piece of plastic between the barrel and stock, and guess what? Bingo Bango,.....my groups instantly tightened. I'm talking 1 inch groups or so. I had a couple shots that I couldn't see where they hit, then found out I was shooting almost the same holes when I walked up to the target...
The unfortunate thing is, that today, the gun range hosted a sight in day where the weekend warriors could bring their rifles out to sight in for the deer season in two weeks so he place was a zoo. So the only open range was he 75 yard range. My shots were all grouped together, but about 3.5-4" high at 75 yards. I adjusted it down so they were grouping about 2-2.5" inches high at 75 yards.
In my mind though, at that range, the bullet trajectory is still going up correct? So I could assume it would be higher at 100 yards....
I want this gun sighted in 2" high at a hundred so that I can basically hold right on a Deers vitals anywhere 0-300 yards. Looks like ill have to find time this week to o out one last time to get it completely sighted in.
On a side note. I was using remmington 175gr or loks. I had one misfire today. The primer was dimpled, but no bang......first time this ever happened to me. Anyone ever have this happen?
The unfortunate thing is, that today, the gun range hosted a sight in day where the weekend warriors could bring their rifles out to sight in for the deer season in two weeks so he place was a zoo. So the only open range was he 75 yard range. My shots were all grouped together, but about 3.5-4" high at 75 yards. I adjusted it down so they were grouping about 2-2.5" inches high at 75 yards.
In my mind though, at that range, the bullet trajectory is still going up correct? So I could assume it would be higher at 100 yards....
I want this gun sighted in 2" high at a hundred so that I can basically hold right on a Deers vitals anywhere 0-300 yards. Looks like ill have to find time this week to o out one last time to get it completely sighted in.
On a side note. I was using remmington 175gr or loks. I had one misfire today. The primer was dimpled, but no bang......first time this ever happened to me. Anyone ever have this happen?