Minimum gear for successful hunt
12-30-2011, 06:36 PM
#21
Spike
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Watha,NC
Posts: 91
A little advise.... Practice,Practice,Practice then practice some more. You said you won't shoot a deer unless you think you will drop it good choice, you say you haven't shot this rifle yet, well shoot it. When/if you get a tree stand of any sort, climber, lock on, ladder, make certain any and all trees that you trimmed are cut flush with the ground, I see so many people cut little trees down and leave about 3-6" sticking up like "punji" sticks under their stand. A safety harness is a must when hunting out of a tree stand, new tree stands come with a harness, they are better than nothing, but a Hunter Safety System is money well spent. other than a rifle,bullets, tags the most important piece of equipment you can have is a Thermacell, they are $25, but they are worth 4x their weight in gold. others have already given good advice. Good Luck
12-31-2011, 11:32 AM
#23
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southeast
Posts: 162
Bow or rifle, one arrow or bullet, right tag.
However when I hunt here, assuming the stand is up and I wear some of the equipment such as safety harness, all I carry is a knife, small camera, cell phone on vibrate, dip and bow or gun. Everything else is in the truck less than 100 yards away. The phone is for emergency only and I have no idea what the number is. I have had it five months and made one call to my wife.
That is all I have ever found I needed. I am familiar enough with the stands to know the yardage and have no need for binos. I do not read or play games. When I kill or shoot a deer, I go to the truck and get my cleaning pack, then go to work.
The light pack includes AI gloves, exam gloves, a bottle of water, two knives, a flashlight and a small saw. It is attached to my dragging device. Fortunately, this year, six of my seven deer fell in sight and the seventh went about 75 yards. All were less then 100 yards from the truck when they came up dead.
Also in my truck is my big camera and tripod so I don't need anyone to take pictures. My truck is also equipmed with a pulley system for easy loading. As you might guess, I hunt almost totally alone.
When I hunt other areas or for longer times, I carry more and sometimes even a small day pack. MY elk hunting pack is far more extensive but still about half what many hunters carry.
However when I hunt here, assuming the stand is up and I wear some of the equipment such as safety harness, all I carry is a knife, small camera, cell phone on vibrate, dip and bow or gun. Everything else is in the truck less than 100 yards away. The phone is for emergency only and I have no idea what the number is. I have had it five months and made one call to my wife.
That is all I have ever found I needed. I am familiar enough with the stands to know the yardage and have no need for binos. I do not read or play games. When I kill or shoot a deer, I go to the truck and get my cleaning pack, then go to work.
The light pack includes AI gloves, exam gloves, a bottle of water, two knives, a flashlight and a small saw. It is attached to my dragging device. Fortunately, this year, six of my seven deer fell in sight and the seventh went about 75 yards. All were less then 100 yards from the truck when they came up dead.
Also in my truck is my big camera and tripod so I don't need anyone to take pictures. My truck is also equipmed with a pulley system for easy loading. As you might guess, I hunt almost totally alone.
When I hunt other areas or for longer times, I carry more and sometimes even a small day pack. MY elk hunting pack is far more extensive but still about half what many hunters carry.
Last edited by scribe; 12-31-2011 at 11:44 AM.
01-01-2012, 07:18 PM
#25
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,876
I'm not really concerned as much with the price per pound. I want to hunt as mug to keep me sane as anything. I work a desk job, and want an excuse to hide in the woods. Meat and trophies are just bonus.
However, I do have limited resourses to buy all the possible gear at once.
However, I do have limited resourses to buy all the possible gear at once.
Then when you get close but no cigar you'll get very serious. It's ok, that's when the real therapy begins. Well you need the ammo to practice, that isn't cheap these days and a place to do it, many join a club (more cost). Usually a distance away (more cost). Targets? (more cost) and your just shooting targets. You'll want a sling and probably soon a scope and will buy what you think you can afford only to find out what you bought is great on a sunny day but terrible in low light and bad weather causing you to upgrade (cost upon cost). You can't see the deer before they see you so you'll read that other hunters always use bino's (me) and you'll be a little more savvy since buying the scope that didn't work out and maybe buy a bino that's water and fog proof (maybe and more cost)
It goes on to the point where you stop counting the cost and start making being successful the priority. Your a little smarter now, but still buy things that aren't what they claim with many claiming to make things possible, and they can, if you also change the things they work with.
The end isn't even whatever it takes for you to put a tag on a deer since the deer must be processed and stored meaning at the least another freezer.
Year after year the price per pound gets better because you need less year after year to make it happen. Unless you get into it and start hunting out of state, then there's travel expenses and NR tags and tips and presents for those at home...
Last edited by nodog; 01-01-2012 at 07:24 PM.
01-03-2012, 02:44 AM
#26
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location:
Posts: 11,472
Like the old saying goes "It's the Indian, not the arrow".
You can buy all the goodies there are to offer. Doesn't guarantee any success unless you know/learn basic knowledge of whitetails and how to hunt them. I like this thread. Brings me back to the begining and basics.
Nodog, I'm sure you have a lot of years under your belt as do I. The OP is simply asking the bare minimum needed to hunt. I think that's a good approach starting out. Like he said, he wants to see if it's for him. No sense IMO of buying 10 hangons, climbing sticks, dozen cams, grinder, electric hoist, ATV, scent lock camo, alpha burly boots, underarour baselayers, smoker, knives, dehydrator, backpack, grunt call, scents, binocs, etc... if he decides it's not for him. Like said before, gun, bullets, license and knife essentially is all you NEED to get going. If you like it then YES add ons will increase your chances and make you more comfortable in the woods. But Id say actually learn how to hunt whitetails and concentrate your efforts on where, when and why to setup to kill them. Learn about sign and why it's there and behavior at certain times of the year.
01-03-2012, 03:30 AM
#27
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,425
I'd add a few more tips...Sounds like you live in Patrick County...I'd take a backpack with tp, wipes, water, compass, snacks, cushion, 2 headlights a .22 or shotgun and go to that public land and go squirrel hunting...
Public land can be good and bad, right now you can tell where others have been hunting...Notice where they have been and get a feel for the lay of the land...Some guys go to public land and wander aimlessly around in the season...This will give you an idea of where to hunt next year...Walk creeks and look for deer crossings, poke around in cutovers, look for white oaks and notice if deer have been feeding on acorns under them...Look for honeysuckle, deer love it during the late season...
Also, when you do deer hunt, take at least 2 lights and extra batteries...I also take a small flasher light to hang over the deer so if it's dark, I can go get help or if on private property the 4-wheeler to drag it out...
Also, take a good small flashlight with extra batteries for tracking blood after you shoot that deer...Lowes sells one for about $50 that uses 3-AAA batteries and the beam can be focused, this is important as too much light bounces back and blinds you when tracking at night...You want to be able to adjust the width of the beam to tracking conditions...
Public land can be good and bad, right now you can tell where others have been hunting...Notice where they have been and get a feel for the lay of the land...Some guys go to public land and wander aimlessly around in the season...This will give you an idea of where to hunt next year...Walk creeks and look for deer crossings, poke around in cutovers, look for white oaks and notice if deer have been feeding on acorns under them...Look for honeysuckle, deer love it during the late season...
Also, when you do deer hunt, take at least 2 lights and extra batteries...I also take a small flasher light to hang over the deer so if it's dark, I can go get help or if on private property the 4-wheeler to drag it out...
Also, take a good small flashlight with extra batteries for tracking blood after you shoot that deer...Lowes sells one for about $50 that uses 3-AAA batteries and the beam can be focused, this is important as too much light bounces back and blinds you when tracking at night...You want to be able to adjust the width of the beam to tracking conditions...
01-03-2012, 03:55 AM
#28
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,925
I didnt read all the posts so maybe it was covered.To kill a deer you just need a gun and a box of shells.To track a deer you may need a good flashlight.To dress the deer you will need a knife.
But depending on where and when your hunting you may need some decent clothing.The late season here can be bitter, 3 or 4 feet of snow, weeks where it never gets above 0 and weeks where the windchill keeps it around -20 or colder.You need layers of clothes but you dont want to wear so much you cant move.Ive seen it before with people Ive hunted with, about an hour in and theyre headed for the car.It doesnt matter what gear you have and how good you are, if you arent halfway comfortable your not gonna be out long enough to kill a deer.Once your feet or hands start hurting from the cold your about done anyway you look at it.
I dont know where or what your weathers like during season but you cant go wrong investing in some decent clothing, even if you decide huntings not for you you can still use it.Im not talking about buying hundreds of dollars worth of designer camo, scent lock, forget the wind just hunt crap, Im talking about sensible clothes for whatever conditions you may hunt in.
But depending on where and when your hunting you may need some decent clothing.The late season here can be bitter, 3 or 4 feet of snow, weeks where it never gets above 0 and weeks where the windchill keeps it around -20 or colder.You need layers of clothes but you dont want to wear so much you cant move.Ive seen it before with people Ive hunted with, about an hour in and theyre headed for the car.It doesnt matter what gear you have and how good you are, if you arent halfway comfortable your not gonna be out long enough to kill a deer.Once your feet or hands start hurting from the cold your about done anyway you look at it.
I dont know where or what your weathers like during season but you cant go wrong investing in some decent clothing, even if you decide huntings not for you you can still use it.Im not talking about buying hundreds of dollars worth of designer camo, scent lock, forget the wind just hunt crap, Im talking about sensible clothes for whatever conditions you may hunt in.
01-03-2012, 07:39 PM
#29
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 182
What kind of land is it in Virginia? I'd hunt that over the public land in NC any day of the week. How many acres? Is it all forest? Is any of it planted with crops?
No, you don't need a tree stand. I've had one for years, and have killed far more deer (in Virginia) simply standing (or rather) laying prone on the ground.
In addition to the rifle, license and hunter orange I'd suggest a good sharp knife to gut the deer. AVOID THE BEAR GYLLIS crap. Just go get yourself a Buck 110 folder - about $30 at Wal Mart. It will last longer than you do. And some rope to help carry him out. I use an old plastic snow sled to help with the drag too.
I don't routinly wear camo. Usually have khaki or green Dickies work pants on from Wal Mart and a shirt/jacket. Shirt may be cammo, more often than not its whatever I was wearing that day. My favorite hunting shirt is a thick weight plaid red and green tartan LL Bean shirt.
Get a pair of binoculars. Deer come out at dawn and dusk. They are well camoflouged. At dusk, even at 50 yards, you might be hard pressed to see a deer standing still in the open with your bare eyes. Decent binoculars will help you see them better and extend your available hunting hours. As will a scope.
And no, you need not listen to internet commandos who insist you buy a $1000 pair of Swarovski binoculars in order to see anything. A pair of Bushnells or whatever Wally World is selling will do just fine. They aren't the best, but for the price its tough to beat (I actually purchased my $600 Steiners from a guy on Craigslist for $100. I've had them for 5 years at least. They work great). I purchased my Leupold Scope on ebay. You can find great bargains. Especially once the season is over. Ebay and Craiglist in February and March are a shoppers dream.
Beyond that, I'd take a water bottle. Maybe a book. TP is a good idea (but try to go #2 before heading to the field). Perhaps a cushion to sit on and just wait for the deer.
Once you shoot a deer, you need to gut it. This is the best video I know of for learning how to field dress a deer.
You will also want to know where a butcher is. Or learn how to butcher deer. Its not hard. But helps to have someone "show you the ropes"
No, you don't need a tree stand. I've had one for years, and have killed far more deer (in Virginia) simply standing (or rather) laying prone on the ground.
In addition to the rifle, license and hunter orange I'd suggest a good sharp knife to gut the deer. AVOID THE BEAR GYLLIS crap. Just go get yourself a Buck 110 folder - about $30 at Wal Mart. It will last longer than you do. And some rope to help carry him out. I use an old plastic snow sled to help with the drag too.
I don't routinly wear camo. Usually have khaki or green Dickies work pants on from Wal Mart and a shirt/jacket. Shirt may be cammo, more often than not its whatever I was wearing that day. My favorite hunting shirt is a thick weight plaid red and green tartan LL Bean shirt.
Get a pair of binoculars. Deer come out at dawn and dusk. They are well camoflouged. At dusk, even at 50 yards, you might be hard pressed to see a deer standing still in the open with your bare eyes. Decent binoculars will help you see them better and extend your available hunting hours. As will a scope.
And no, you need not listen to internet commandos who insist you buy a $1000 pair of Swarovski binoculars in order to see anything. A pair of Bushnells or whatever Wally World is selling will do just fine. They aren't the best, but for the price its tough to beat (I actually purchased my $600 Steiners from a guy on Craigslist for $100. I've had them for 5 years at least. They work great). I purchased my Leupold Scope on ebay. You can find great bargains. Especially once the season is over. Ebay and Craiglist in February and March are a shoppers dream.
Beyond that, I'd take a water bottle. Maybe a book. TP is a good idea (but try to go #2 before heading to the field). Perhaps a cushion to sit on and just wait for the deer.
Once you shoot a deer, you need to gut it. This is the best video I know of for learning how to field dress a deer.
You will also want to know where a butcher is. Or learn how to butcher deer. Its not hard. But helps to have someone "show you the ropes"
Last edited by countertop; 01-03-2012 at 07:49 PM.
01-04-2012, 02:52 AM
#30
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location:
Posts: 11,472
Deer come out at dawn and dusk. They are well camoflouged. At dusk, even at 50 yards, you might be hard pressed to see a deer standing still in the open with your bare eyes. Decent binoculars will help you see them better and extend your available hunting hours.
And there is no extending your hunting hours. They are what they are.