which compond bow to purchase?
10-05-2010, 05:09 PM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
which compond bow to purchase?
I would like to make the transition from rifle to compound bow this season. I live in Virginia and will be hunting whitetail and am looking for some suggestions on a bow to buy. Ideally I would like to keep it all under $500, as I just graduated college and am a little on the poor side. Any suggestions would be a great help! Thanks!
10-05-2010, 05:33 PM
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 489
by the time you get a good setup that you will like and keep for a long time you are looking at $1200 easy, complete bow arrow's broadheads. I like the Bowtech Gardian or Diamond Iceman, I have a Iceman. I liked the fact of center pivot limbs and no need for a bowpress to work on the bow. I was a diehard Mathews man but when I was in market for new bow it was the Reezen or the Monster, and neither I liked, now I do like the new Z-7 but I like my Iceman better. Bear archery doesnt impress me at all. the rest I don't know
10-05-2010, 07:37 PM
#3
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 157
If you are on a budget, don't buy new, buy used. Look around at different shops and see what you can find. I bought a Mathews Ovation all set up with a case for $350. There are deals to be had, just look. Check on craigslist and other local sites. If it is your first time, you don't need anything fancy. Something to get the job done. You don't want to drop a ton of money and find out that bowhunting isn't for you.
10-05-2010, 09:01 PM
#4
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Tuscaloosa, Al
Posts: 313
i would look around for a used bow like a mathews, hoyt, or pse. I think you should try to look for a used mathews drenalin. they came out in 08, i think, and they are very nice shooting bow. im sure you could look on ebay and find one for around 500 easily.
10-05-2010, 11:20 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: West NE
Posts: 1,455
I'd recommend bowhunter ed for starters. If it is not required in your state, then I would recommend going to an online bowhunter ed site and at least going through the information. Now....
You might could ebay. Got both of my bows off there for around 200-250; bows can decrease in value pretty quickly even though they remain good bows. I would highly recommend having a pro shop help get you and your bow set up to each other once you have all the goodies to put on it. That will save a lot of time for you.
Now, the following is just me. There are tons of opinions and a wider array of good equipment than what I am mentioning, but the following is something to keep in mind.
You might receive a used bow with little string/cable life left in it. If so, start with new string/cable.
If the bow is naked, I'd get a 3 or 4 pin sight (a 35 dollar truglo will work), a peep, caliper/release, get it d-looped - I like whisker biscuit arrow rests and prefer my drop tine model to my original; a quiver; some vibration dampening devices such as limbsavers; I prefer to shoot with a bow sling. Arrows: the choices are vast. I prefer carbon over aluminum, and you might try some cabelas carbon hunters. They're not very expensive and will work well. Vanes: I shoot both 2" and 4" vanes and have compared them to 60 yards with no noticeable difference--then again, I shoot mechanical NAP Spitfire broadheads which fly very well. I imagine fixed blade shooters may say otherwise, but I've never shot fixed blades and have no say there. The 2" blazer vanes and similar copies have received much praise, but for what I shoot, they simply show no difference. You'll need a target, whether a combo field point / broadhead target or separate targets. When you sight in, sight in with the exact equipment you will be hunting with (as you would with a rifle).
If the season's soon, it'll take a lotta practice if this is completely new to you... Get your bow set up, research and ask questions on specifics if you're not sure what to get, have it tuned, and shoot a LOT. Be honest with yourself and your abilities and don't try to go beyond them in the field. I feel that trigger control is the most important part of shooting for both rifles and bows; keep that in mind, as well as follow-through. If you are hunting from a stand, you might pre-mark yardages so there is no guessing.
In a nutshell..
Bowhunting is a completely different experience from both centerfire rifle hunting and muzzleloading. I will warn you that it can become habit-forming and may cause daydreaming, lack of focus at work, and anxiety. Consult your physician if you have an erection lasting longer than 4 hours.
You might could ebay. Got both of my bows off there for around 200-250; bows can decrease in value pretty quickly even though they remain good bows. I would highly recommend having a pro shop help get you and your bow set up to each other once you have all the goodies to put on it. That will save a lot of time for you.
Now, the following is just me. There are tons of opinions and a wider array of good equipment than what I am mentioning, but the following is something to keep in mind.
You might receive a used bow with little string/cable life left in it. If so, start with new string/cable.
If the bow is naked, I'd get a 3 or 4 pin sight (a 35 dollar truglo will work), a peep, caliper/release, get it d-looped - I like whisker biscuit arrow rests and prefer my drop tine model to my original; a quiver; some vibration dampening devices such as limbsavers; I prefer to shoot with a bow sling. Arrows: the choices are vast. I prefer carbon over aluminum, and you might try some cabelas carbon hunters. They're not very expensive and will work well. Vanes: I shoot both 2" and 4" vanes and have compared them to 60 yards with no noticeable difference--then again, I shoot mechanical NAP Spitfire broadheads which fly very well. I imagine fixed blade shooters may say otherwise, but I've never shot fixed blades and have no say there. The 2" blazer vanes and similar copies have received much praise, but for what I shoot, they simply show no difference. You'll need a target, whether a combo field point / broadhead target or separate targets. When you sight in, sight in with the exact equipment you will be hunting with (as you would with a rifle).
If the season's soon, it'll take a lotta practice if this is completely new to you... Get your bow set up, research and ask questions on specifics if you're not sure what to get, have it tuned, and shoot a LOT. Be honest with yourself and your abilities and don't try to go beyond them in the field. I feel that trigger control is the most important part of shooting for both rifles and bows; keep that in mind, as well as follow-through. If you are hunting from a stand, you might pre-mark yardages so there is no guessing.
In a nutshell..
Bowhunting is a completely different experience from both centerfire rifle hunting and muzzleloading. I will warn you that it can become habit-forming and may cause daydreaming, lack of focus at work, and anxiety. Consult your physician if you have an erection lasting longer than 4 hours.
10-06-2010, 03:02 AM
#6
Spike
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 50
I would suggest Parker Bows. They have great complete bow packages. They are based in Virginia and have great customer service.
Here is one that shoots 320 fps.
You don't have to pay big money for a good bow.
http://www.basspro.com/Parker-Infern...06737/-1691713
Here is one that shoots 320 fps.
You don't have to pay big money for a good bow.
http://www.basspro.com/Parker-Infern...06737/-1691713
10-06-2010, 04:11 AM
#7
Typical Buck
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 797
You don't need thousands to get started bow hunting.
First thing you need to get to an archery shop and draw the bow that your going to buy. See how it fits you. Also the guy at the shop will help fit you to the bow draw length is a must if your just starting out.
There are a lot good HUNTING bows out there that are under $500.00 for a package deal. One of my new favorite bows for hunting is my Martin Saber it runs about $360.00 and can be adjusted to any normal draw length. It may not be 3-D quality but it's about as easy as it gets for hunting. Light compact and it don't have that awful break over that some of the high maintenence bows do. And if you have to pick a new spot on your target every time to keep from ruining arrows it's good enough for hunting.
You can spend a lot of money on bow gadgets but you can also pick simplicity for a hunting bow and never have to change a thing about it. In the hunting end of archery whatever bow fits you the best and is functional is better than a trade name. Also starting out I'd opt for the whisker biscuit rest. A prong rest will teach you how to draw and shoot your bow but the whisker will keep you from losing a deer in a tough drawing situation. Bows have all became preference of opinion but I would never buy a bow online that I hadn't had in my hands first. Good Luck.
First thing you need to get to an archery shop and draw the bow that your going to buy. See how it fits you. Also the guy at the shop will help fit you to the bow draw length is a must if your just starting out.
There are a lot good HUNTING bows out there that are under $500.00 for a package deal. One of my new favorite bows for hunting is my Martin Saber it runs about $360.00 and can be adjusted to any normal draw length. It may not be 3-D quality but it's about as easy as it gets for hunting. Light compact and it don't have that awful break over that some of the high maintenence bows do. And if you have to pick a new spot on your target every time to keep from ruining arrows it's good enough for hunting.
You can spend a lot of money on bow gadgets but you can also pick simplicity for a hunting bow and never have to change a thing about it. In the hunting end of archery whatever bow fits you the best and is functional is better than a trade name. Also starting out I'd opt for the whisker biscuit rest. A prong rest will teach you how to draw and shoot your bow but the whisker will keep you from losing a deer in a tough drawing situation. Bows have all became preference of opinion but I would never buy a bow online that I hadn't had in my hands first. Good Luck.
10-06-2010, 05:31 AM
#8
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 220
First and foremost buy the one that fits in your hands the best... Kinda like buying a truck, alot of good makes and models out there. But you know which one suits you the best...
That being said two bows that instantly pop into mind when I read your thread are the Diamond Edge and Hoyt Turbo Hawk. The TurboHawk is one of the best values on the market right now.
That being said two bows that instantly pop into mind when I read your thread are the Diamond Edge and Hoyt Turbo Hawk. The TurboHawk is one of the best values on the market right now.
10-06-2010, 05:59 AM
#9
Fork Horn
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 190
i just purchased a mission Ux2 made by mathews. they are very affordable i bought mine fully set up for 325 it was used for one year. you can purchase the same bow for 349 new but it is bare meaning no accessories. just google mission bows and you will pull up there website
10-06-2010, 06:00 AM
#10
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 220
I would like to make the transition from rifle to compound bow this season. I live in Virginia and will be hunting whitetail and am looking for some suggestions on a bow to buy. Ideally I would like to keep it all under $500, as I just graduated college and am a little on the poor side. Any suggestions would be a great help! Thanks!
I'm sure that there was a couple hundred experts that would help you out, had you posted it in the bow hunting section.
