crokit

every bolt action and removable breech weapon I've owned, done thusly: get a good solid mount, remove bolt-breechplug. Look down barrel [from the rear } and sight something, centering it in the barrel. Object should be less than 100 yds away. I use a stop sign down the street from me.

Adjust crosshairs onto the object, being careful not to move weapon. Now go to the range! 50yds, and adjust accordingly!

It's important to use some form of boresighting, especially when scope and weapon have been/are seperated. Unless, of course, you have stock in Win. or Rem. ammo!

Paul L Mohr

I always bore sight a gun first and make any major adjustment by shimming or adjusting the mounts. I prefere mounts that have windage adjustments built into them. This way you don't have to fire as many rounds or put as much adjustment into the scope. I have seen people ruin scopes by over adjusting them. And if you take up all your adjustment range for sighting it in you don't have any left for elevation or windage correction if you need it.

After that I fire a few groups at 25 yards and do any fine tuning that might need to be done. Bore sighting does not always get you as close as you think it will, so starting at 100 yards might be futile in some cases. If I am more than a few inches off at 25 yards I will fix it in the mounts again before actually doing any dialing on the scope.

After this I sight in at what ever yardage I want the gun zeroed for. And shoot at least three shots. Don't fire a round and adjust, then fire another and adjust again. Unless you know your gun is very accurate and you know you made a good clean shot. I still don't suggest doing it with one shot. I also might try different loads at this time to see what is more accurate out of my gun if it is new. I don't bother adjusting the scope until I find a load I like because changing loads will change your impact points some times.

I use a target with a 1 or 2 inch square bull. I also only adjust one axis at a time. I start with elevation, then do my windage. After that I fire another group or two or three to see if anything needs touched up. I line the cross hairs up on the horizontal line and only concentrate on keeping the gun steady for elevation. If it wants to float from side to side I let it. I center the group on this line. Then I line the vertical cross hairs up on the vertical side of the bull and concentrate only on keeping the gun steady from side to side and center the group on the verticle line of the traget.

After this I aim for the corner of a square lining the cross hairs up with the corner of the bull and see where my groups land.

This is a very precise way of shooting since it easier for your brain to conentrate on one axis at a time rather than two. And I only adjust one axis at a time because if your scope is not leveled perfectly or you do not hold the rifle perfectly level adjusting both turrets at once might pull your shots to one side or up and down.

I tune my archery equipment the same way.

This is how I was taught to do it by a bench rest shooter and it seems to work very well. It is time consuming and uses more ammo but it is very precise.

Paul

adirondackhunter

This i how i sight my guns

adirondackhunter

got to work on my typing skills.

YeARoundHunT

i just take a couple pot shots at some deer that works well..

Phil from Maine

Target practice!! Lots of shots and adjusting the sights as you go,until you know it's right for you..
That has worked well for me for years..

bitpacker

I have a Laser boresighter but I do not use much it at least for large caliber rifles. What I do is to put the rifle on a steady support, aim the rifle at a bright target (I use those large orange containers of liquid soap!) by looking through the bore and adjust the scope to also point at the target. From that point you should be able to put a bullet on paper at 50 or even 100 yards.

blackpowderfever

1. Bore sight
2. Buy a ballistic chart for your .270 and bullet choice
3. Sight in at 25 acorrding to your ballistic charts. It is much easier to tune in at 25 for accuarcy at 100 yrds. Your Ballistic chart will give you all the info you need.
Good Luck

Paul L Mohr

Are you telling me you sight your gun in at 25 and don't bother with how it shoots at longer ranges? Adjusting your scope at the farthest range you can shoot is more precise. I am not a big believer in the close up sight in method. Ballistics charts are nice guides, but they normally are not real accurate, especially with factory loads.

At 25 yards you are going to have put a ton of clicks on your scope to move the impact point 1 inch. At 100 yards it will be 4 clicks, at 200 yards it will be 2 clicks. You can't even distinguish between four clicks at 25 yards, but if you are 4 clicks off at the 25 yard sight in yardage you could be more than two inches off at 200 yards. Then when you factor in the variance in the ballistic chart accuracy and your particular rifle it could get more extreme.

And then there is the parallax issue if you are using a fixed parallax scope. It will not be correct at 25 yards and if you don't have very good shooting form or your scope is mounted to high (often the case) it will just make that much harder to get a precise sight in at 25 yards.

Paul

blackpowderfever

yes 25 is the same as 100. General rule if you are bullseye at 25 your 1-2 inches high depending on your rifle at 100 yrds. Less room for era at 25 then a 100 and most people make the mistake of sighting in at a 100. You will spend less money on ammo and time at the range. When you are done check it at 100 you will be fine.