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Need some deer-stand plans
Hey guys,
My name is Andrew, I'm 18 and I'm from Minnesota. I recently bought some land and I want to put up a deer-stand there (place is infested with wildlife.) I know deer season is gone now (at least here unless it's with a bow I believe) but I want to get started on a "treeless deer-stand" to use next hunting season so it's all ready to go. I want to build something along these lines: ![]() I have pretty basic carpentry skills, I've never done anything fancy like build a house or anything, but at the same time it's not like I've never touched a hammer either. I want to build the deer-stand out of pretty basic lumber, plywood, OSB, and possibly some treated stuff (like maybe the supports so it slows down the rotting process in the ground.) So I'm just wondering if anyone here might have some deer-stand plans they could share with me, or maybe even a personal how-to/DIY guide by yourself. I think building a deer-stand for the most part would be pretty easy for me personally... The only thing I'm having trouble thinking of is how I would design the supports for the deer-stand. I obviously don't want it to collapse on me and I want it to hold a signifigant amount of weight. I want the deer stand about 8 feet or more above-ground. If anyone could share with me how to effectively and safetly create a good support structure for holding the deer-stand in the air, I would really appreciate it! Thank you, Andrew |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
wow , your 18 years old and buying hunting land , good for you. i have no plans to offer you ,but just sit down and draw what you want then build it
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Heh, well it's only 2 acres but I think that's good for starters. It's a wiser thing than buying and going through new cars like all of my buddies do (I think at least.)
My idea for the deer stand is just something pretty basic with a box on top of the supports, a small door, wall openings, and a roof of course. I guess I could actually design it as I build it because I could always change things. Like I said, I'm still pretty confused about how to do the supports correctly. If I were to build a small structure on the ground I'm sure I could do it without a problem. But since this deer stand is going to be in up there in the air, I want to make sure I do the supports right, the last thing I'd ever want is for it to come crashing down. I don't really know what a good structure-safe way is to build the supports or how to do it effectively. |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Here is a rough plan I made:
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
$10 ish seems reasonable:
http://www.deerhuntingstandplans.com/Tower.htm I'd also google for plans on the internet. I remember seeing somewhere about how to use wood 4x4's for angled uprights, and pre-made brackets to do this for you. |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
You can get brackets for wood uprights at cabela's:
Shadow Hunter Blind Elevators http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0028480416685a&type=product&cm Cat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&No=20&noImage=0&Ntt=tower &Ntk=Products&QueryText=tower&Ntx=matc hall&N=4887&Nty=1 |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
I run a construction businuess.For putting posts up we usually dig a hole with a posthole digger about 4 ft deep, set your post in the hole and level it up, take a bag or two ofcement mix and dump in around the bottom of the hole, you can dump it in dry, the ground water will eventually turn it intocement.Fill the rest of the hole back in with dirt and tamp the hell out of it.It wont be portable but if your only on 2 acres you probably wont be moving it much anyway.
Run a 2x10 stringer around the posts, just attach the 2X10 to the posts withlags untill you have the outside of the posts completely boxed in.Then you can put youre floor in.Id use some 2x6 joist hangers, put them every 16 inches or 2 foot whichever you prefer.After you have the hangers attached you just drop your 2x6 into the hanger and nail it, much easier then trying to hold it up by yourself and attach it and will hold better.Your ready to plywood the floor now.Whichever plywood you decide to go with Id get some maxi bond or other type of glue and put down between the floor joists and plywood, since its outside the flooring will eventually loosen up and become squeaky if you dont.Then you can build your walls and roof in whatever design you want. If it still seems shaky after the floors in just cut some 2x4 that will run at angle from the bottom of the 2x10 to the post on the other side part way down.Wish I knew how to do designs on the computer, It would be much easier to describe with pictures. |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
This might give you some tips.I have not used it personally but have also been looking around since I will be putting up my first this year also!! It should at least help with ideas. I will be going 20 feet high for my floor though at least and may possibly go with 4 of the smaller sized telephone poles for my bases.
Link: http://www-personal.umich.edu/~jeffreym/htm/Elevated%20Deer%20Shack.htm ![]() |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Hey guys, I read everything you've all posted, and I want to thank each one of you for the advice and responses.
@petasux: I can't design very well on the computer myself. Do you happen to have any pictures to kind of help show what you're describing as far as the supports go? @Fletch: the idea of using telephone poles is brilliant, you can't get any better wood-wise. The only problem is: where do you get telephone poles from? The electric company, the county? |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Lowe's or Builder's Square carrys 6 inch post. I built my sons a standing tree fort only using 4 x 4 s 15 years ago.I still climb up there and shoot my bow from it in the back yard. ...and I'm a big man. 6" post should be fine . Level them bad boys off and pour in some ready mix concrete.
C7 |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
I built a hunting shack 2 summers ago. It is 8'X12' with an 8' front wall and 7' back wall. We put 4 old telephone poles in the ground. We had some old bridge planks layin around, which would basically be a 2x12. We ran ready rod through the poles and into the planks, the planks were stinding up on endge, cut the telephone poles off at 11' flush with the planks. Used some 4X6 boards that we had and set them on top of the planks. I made some brackets out of angle iron to fasten the boards to the planks. I then used some 2X6 tongue and groove boards for the floor. Built my walls on the ground and hoisted them up and screwed em together. I put 1/2" insulation on the outside and tinned over it, tinned the roof, used an old door out of my garage that I replaced, and made some windows. Put some carpet in like what they use in store entrances, and threw in a Mr. Heater. I ran 2X6 boards across at an angle on sides and back of pole frame. Very solid, 40 mph winds don't move it.
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
I try and keep things simple, I find 2 trees close together, install a 4x4 or 6x6, and make a plateform at the top, put the seat in between the trees, you can sit with your back to either tree, or just sit facing out over the post. here are two pics.
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
here's another one
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Get a couch and a microwave up there! Pizza bagels are the ****
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
andrgo, Ill try to give you an idea what Im talking about.
Not sure where your at or if its even an issue in your area but by burying the posts and cementing around the bottom of them it serves two purposes, first it solids things up nicely, a post buried 4 ft deep isnt likely to tip over.Secondly it prevent the frost from heaving your posts up and shifting everything above them around. Heres a floor joist hanger, they come in all sizes for different lumber, for something that high up Id go with a 2x6 or 2x8 joist, you wont have a long span so you shouldnt need much more then that. ![]() Attach these to the 2x10 you have run around the outside of the post so the top of the hangers flush with the top of the 2X10.Lay em out on 16 inch centers so that youre plywood comes out right and you dont have to cut every piece.The joists {2x6s} will sit down inside them and get nailed through the sides.If you do a google search you can find pictures of decklayouts and stuff, the framing for the floor will be quite similiar to those. After your walls are up, plywood is on and the roofs put together you really shouldnt need much further bracing.If you still feel the need for more bracing on a couple walls you can run a 2x4 from the top corner on one side to the bottom corner on the other side on the inside of the wall.Nail it or screw it to every stud in the wall.Dont know if this helped any, if you have more specific questions Ill try to answer them. |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Hey man thanks for your post, now I get it kind of better. Do you think that expecting to go 8-12' is too tall? I'm also wondering if I should use scrapped telephone poles from the electric company or big 4x4 greentreat posts of a certain height. Telephone poles would be nicer I think, but those suckers are solid and tough to work with (which is why they'd be good to use.. if you could ever get them up.) I'm also not sure how deep to go, you said 4' deep but I guess it really depends on the height of the thing, the higher it is the lower the posts should be in the ground I'm guessing. But I don't really know what an appropriate height would be. I just want it high enough so when it's not occupied bears can't do anything to it and rodents will have a hard time getting in it. I really want to go all-out with this thing, I want to make it big enough to sleep in and have it insulated and everything, something campable so it is more convienient whenever I use it.
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Do you think that expecting to go 8-12' is too tall? I'm also wondering if I should use scrapped telephone poles from the electric company or big 4x4 greentreat posts of a certain height. Telephone poles would be nicer I think, but those suckers are solid and tough to work with (which is why they'd be good to use.. if you could ever get them up.) 4ft deep with the cement should be plenty, the cement will act like an anchor.Put an inch ortwo of cement in the bottom of the hole before you put the post in, set your post and brace it then fill the hole about 18 inches or so with cementaround the bottom of the pole.Fill the rest in with dirt and tamp it good, heap the dirt up around the bottom cuz it will continue to settle.If you go over 12 ft high you may want to go a little deeper, if your going to go deeper then 4 ft again you might want to check around and see if you can find a auger to rent for a tractor or skid loader. You mentioned insulating it, just curious what you plan to put on the outside of it?Treated Plywood, steel, something else?Will you be putting something over the windows so you can seal it up when your not using it?Will you be running a heater inside it? |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Below is a website that sells plans for a variety of deer stands. It may or may not be of interest to you.
http://www.deerhuntingstandplans.com/ |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Good luck with the tele-poles!! WAY WAY WAY TOO HEAVY!!!!
We cut some cedar or ash trees and bring em to the local sawmill! Much cheaper!! I don't know if you can't or just don't want to attach it to a tree, but if you use two trees and two posts it cheaper and plenty sturdy without digging any holes or hauling any cement! We usetwo 12' 4X6's and two trees! |
RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Trees grow, not a real long term investment, in my opinion. 4 of us set the telephone poles for my shack, it can be done. Most utility companies and power companies have some pretty decent old poles you could probably get. Build it to last, alot of work and money would get wasted for nothing if you cut corners and got skimpy. We used a regular 12" post hole auger and drilled 3 holes right together, then shoveled out the center. A little extra work, but it worked.
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RE: Need some deer-stand plans
Here is a link to my deerstand and will send plans if you would like some. It was built with 4X4 in 1999 and still standing even after a couple 100 mph winds hit the farm. http://www.geocities.com/mo_biohunter/page6.html
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Has anyone used metal light poles for constructing an elevated deer blind.
I have several 33' steel light poles that are 11 gauge & was wondering if they would be ideal for putting a blind in the sky. I was thinking about setting the poles in concrete about 6' deep. Building an 8 x 8 blind & then bolting the blind to the 4 metal poles. Didn't know if anyone had any experience with this sort of application. I have seen people use telephone poles. Thank you in advance for your reply.
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Originally Posted by wildchild04
(Post 1844369)
You can get brackets for wood uprights at cabela's:
Shadow Hunter Blind Elevators http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0028480416685a&type=product&cm Cat=search&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&No=20&noImage=0&Ntt=tower &Ntk=Products&QueryText=tower&Ntx=matc hall&N=4887&Nty=1 The hardware store is cheaper. |
Bump Any updates? the links are bad or outdated....I am planning on building a couple blinds this spring...couple 8'high 12' at most...
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I have been ruminating about building a stand. I am an older guy and will have to haul it to the farm in a pickup. I will not set the legs in the ground because I may want to move it. I will use four treated 4X4's for legs, either eight or ten feet long. I will build the platform by strarting with two five ft. treated 2X6's and nailing a treated eight ft. 2X6 outside the ends of the five footer to make a rectangle. I will put a couple of five ft. joists across too. I will bolt the end of the 4X4 to the five ft. ends at each corner, spaying then out a foot or so, so that the footprint will be about 7'X8' or so. I will nail a treated eight foot 2X6 on top over the ends of the 4X4's leaving room in between for a 4X8 sheet of plywood, which I will remove when the season is over and put under cover. The ground ends of the legs will be placed on concrete stepping blocks or something like that to keep them off of the ground. The legs and corners will be numbered, the bolts removed and the whole thing placed in a pickup along with some treated 2X4's to be used for X braces on the eight foot sides and straight across braces on the ends to clime up on. A doghouse blind wil go on top, or a light frame to put up burlap to hide behind. After I get it to the farm and put it back together I can put some lag screws in the corners too and put the bracing on Any ideas? Will this thing fall down and hurt somebody? I already have scrap plywood, the rest of wil cost less then $200.
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Originally Posted by Jenks
(Post 4026677)
I have been ruminating about building a stand. I am an older guy and will have to haul it to the farm in a pickup. I will not set the legs in the ground because I may want to move it. I will use four treated 4X4's for legs, either eight or ten feet long. I will build the platform by strarting with two five ft. treated 2X6's and nailing a treated eight ft. 2X6 outside the ends of the five footer to make a rectangle. I will put a couple of five ft. joists across too. I will bolt the end of the 4X4 to the five ft. ends at each corner, spaying then out a foot or so, so that the footprint will be about 7'X8' or so. I will nail a treated eight foot 2X6 on top over the ends of the 4X4's leaving room in between for a 4X8 sheet of plywood, which I will remove when the season is over and put under cover. The ground ends of the legs will be placed on concrete stepping blocks or something like that to keep them off of the ground. The legs and corners will be numbered, the bolts removed and the whole thing placed in a pickup along with some treated 2X4's to be used for X braces on the eight foot sides and straight across braces on the ends to clime up on. A doghouse blind wil go on top, or a light frame to put up burlap to hide behind. After I get it to the farm and put it back together I can put some lag screws in the corners too and put the bracing on Any ideas? Will this thing fall down and hurt somebody? I already have scrap plywood, the rest of wil cost less then $200.
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How high off the ground do you want to be?
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Originally Posted by Remnard
(Post 4026741)
How high off the ground do you want to be?
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Thanks, Wilcam 47. It might not be a bad idea to put up a 2X4 railing around the top. That would be handy to tie some camo. burlap to too if the doghouse was somewhere else. If 8 ft. 4X4's were used, that would get a seat height up to 9 and a half feet, or so. I think that if 10 ft. 4X4's were used, the platform frame should be made from 2X8's instead of 2X6's. That would be quite a bit stronger. Either way, the ground would have to be landscaped so that one leg wasn't in the air. The bag of gravel sounds good too.
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Why not just get a hang on/ladder/ ground blind? This seems like a lot of expense and work for two acres of property...I'm just trying to work it in my head how you can hunt 2 acres, without most our shots being on someone else's land, (since I assume ou are a gun hunter as you seemed unsure about the archery seasons....
Props on buying property at 18 though. |
Try www.greenleaf-designs.com I built the 5x7 Deluxe Tower a few years back. Made a few changes over the years. Platform is 12ft. All treated wood. All screws and bolts. I hope it lasts a loooooooooong time. Cost was about $800.
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Originally Posted by NebBuckHunter
(Post 4026917)
Why not just get a hang on/ladder/ ground blind? This seems like a lot of expense and work for two acres of property...I'm just trying to work it in my head how you can hunt 2 acres, without most our shots being on someone else's land, (since I assume ou are a gun hunter as you seemed unsure about the archery seasons....
Props on buying property at 18 though. Do you realize the kid asked this question 7 years ago and hasn't been back on the site since 2007? |
Originally Posted by Jenks
(Post 4026771)
Thanks, Wilcam 47. It might not be a bad idea to put up a 2X4 railing around the top. That would be handy to tie some camo. burlap to too if the doghouse was somewhere else. If 8 ft. 4X4's were used, that would get a seat height up to 9 and a half feet, or so. I think that if 10 ft. 4X4's were used, the platform frame should be made from 2X8's instead of 2X6's. That would be quite a bit stronger. Either way, the ground would have to be landscaped so that one leg wasn't in the air. The bag of gravel sounds good too.
The benefits of an enclosed blind with a roof are better than a ladder stand IMO...:) |
"The benefits of an enclosed blind with a roof are better than a ladder stand IMO..."
Yep, I've got a bunch of ladder stands, but this is my "go to" blind if the weather gets bad as I get older. It's got a plywood floor on top of 2x8s that sit on wolmanized 4x4s. The sides are OSB covered with steel I scrounged from pole building scraps. The windows are drop down glass and the place can literally be heated with a match if it really gets cold. Where I hunt in northern MI this ground blind gives me a better view where it's located than if it was up in the air. Total cost was under $100. |
Originally Posted by Topgun 3006
(Post 4026994)
Do you realize the kid asked this question 7 years ago and hasn't been back on the site since 2007?
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@Topgun, if you read it, it appears that the post was bumped up because someone else was interested in building a blind and the links were dead.
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deerdust---I was totally aware of that. I was just advising of the OP date and fact that there was no way the OP would be reading the comment back that was specifically addressed to him. That is also why I made my other post showing my ground blind for the others interested in making one!
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Soon as the snow starts melting Im gonna build a few...4'x6' blinds...theres an abandoned homesite with plenty of viable tin roofing im gonna scavange...the house/property has been abandoned for 10+years and is just rotting away.
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