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help on steel shot

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Old 09-08-2010, 09:38 PM
  #11  
Fork Horn
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Originally Posted by hunt genious
I really like the Heavy metal loads HAd great success with them last year i paid 19 per box of 25 this season buying online so thats not too bad
where did you get them from everywhere ive seen them theyve been about 25-30 a box
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:50 AM
  #12  
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There are a number of loads that go down the tubes(in a negative way) when it gets cold ,PMC comes to mind right off. I've dropped birds at 30-35 yards like a rock on Friday those when it was in the 50s and had them outright fail on Saturday morning at 25 degrees on 20 yd rising gads. Yes I too saw the bird shaped hole in the pattern.

Have you tried shooting 1oz loads for ducks? They are generally faster . As for the fasteel I've not had any issues with it as it seems to be about the same 1 1/16 load in Fiocchi cases with Ballistic Prod.CSD118 wads that I hand loaded over 4756 at 1475fps. With Bs I dropped a lesser Canada at about 35yd straight up.

Marilin,syrup,etc why must we always assume the OP can't shoot ? That's just plain arrogant , mean and generally no help at all to anyone . Oh well it might be helpfull if we wanted to all shoot 500 straight every Saturday down at Moe's Trap&Skeet , but I'd bet you can't do it either.
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:35 AM
  #13  
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Since not all shot is created the same, size and pattern do come into play when trying to shoot bird on the wing.
However since most people bash the equipment first, and seldom accept that they are human and subject to fallibility. They sometimes need to be bluntly reminded of that.

Practice may not make us all Tom Knapp quality shooters, but it will go the distance towards eliminating performance gaps between brands of equipment used.
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:17 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Cessna Flyer
I shoot ITX but I also use a blackpowder shotgun. My son shoots Winchester X-Pert and has no problem getting his birds, to include a goose last Saturday.
Bigbuck17
Trying to kill a bird on the water is a gamble at best, yes it can be done, but most of the time it takes multiple shots. I bet you lunch if you would have taken that shot when the bird started to fly you would have killed it.

OH you mean to tell everyone in the world you used lead waterfowl hunting last year? that is exactly how your post reads you might want to edit your post.
I read his post 3 times and still do not see where he stated, implied, or even suggested that he had used lead. What do/did you see and where? Are you implying the hi-density #4's? I use hi-density #2's in Federal 20ga. to hunt geese with and with GREAT results!!!!!

Are you confusing the hi-density with high-antimony?
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Old 09-27-2010, 06:22 PM
  #15  
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SecondChance The post was edited after Cessna posted. I read it prior to it being edited and it very clearly stated lead.
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:14 PM
  #16  
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My bad. I guess thats what happens when you only get half the story!!!!!!!! Kinda like being a weather man, you get it right half the time!!!!!!!!

Last edited by SecondChance; 09-27-2010 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:44 PM
  #17  
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Shot pistol for years and rifle. I see you are a bow hunter. I suspect you may have the same problem I have had all my life. Habits are hard to break. Both rifle and especially pistol requires extreme control over muzzle movement, as does bow hunting. Shotgun rule No. 1, you gotta move that bbl.!
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:44 AM
  #18  
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Pattern your gun to see that it is doing with the load/choke combination. IMHO 3's should be the minimum shot size for waterfowl in steel. Keep shots 40 yards and under.
If that doesn't work spend some time on a skeet field and work on your shotgunning. My first experince with steel was in 1976 and originally it was horrible but around 1982 or so Winchester Super X had it right and never had problems after that. In 3 or 2's it killed everything over the decoys cleanly from teal to geese.
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Old 09-29-2010, 07:39 AM
  #19  
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I remember the original post too. It clearly was stated that he was using Pb.
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