clay pigeon shooting
02-06-2011, 08:31 PM
#11
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 5,130
Some say that you should start in a low gun/ready position (unloaded of course) in the biggest room in your house.
Mount the gun and slowly point/move it along the line where the wall meets the cieling.
Do this 50 times a day.
Again, I say that it's the follow through that makes the difference in more broken targets (dead birds).
Mount the gun and slowly point/move it along the line where the wall meets the cieling.
Do this 50 times a day.
Again, I say that it's the follow through that makes the difference in more broken targets (dead birds).
02-06-2011, 10:24 PM
#12
Typical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location:
Posts: 860
Make sure your gun fits you. A quick check is to mount your gun to shoulder, lean your head alittle into the stock and check to see how much of the barrel you see. You should not be able to see the barrel at all. Practice mounting the gun the same way til it becomes natural.
Choke: Modified for birds, skeet for skeet. But any skeet shooting you do will help you with birds; so, put in skeet choke and have fun.
Stance: for right handers, put all your weight on your right foot and let the left 'fall' til it touches the ground. About 1.5-2' apart depending upon how tall you are. Then lean forward so most of your weight is on the left. Twist via your torso or waist.
Check to make sure eye sight is correct. If shooting right handed, make sure you're right eye dominate. Point at something a distance away. Close right eye, if the finger is now pointing differently, then you are left eye dominant. If that's the case, there are work arounds but I can't tell which will be more comfortable.
Before shooting: especially when shooting at the range, follow the projected path with the gun. I wouldn't worry about closing your eyes because when hunting, everything should come naturally. But at the range, when following the projected path, muscle memory comes in real handy.
At the range, you have to lead the target by about 4-6 feet depending upon your reactions. On a straight crossing shot, normally you would be behind the target (much faster than you) then move the gun past it. At around 4-6 feet ahead, fire then force yourself to pull ahead. In the field, everything should be automatic except the lead. You should be just seeing the bird and everything, the shouldering, the stance, the pulling forward should come naturally.
Choke: Modified for birds, skeet for skeet. But any skeet shooting you do will help you with birds; so, put in skeet choke and have fun.
Stance: for right handers, put all your weight on your right foot and let the left 'fall' til it touches the ground. About 1.5-2' apart depending upon how tall you are. Then lean forward so most of your weight is on the left. Twist via your torso or waist.
Check to make sure eye sight is correct. If shooting right handed, make sure you're right eye dominate. Point at something a distance away. Close right eye, if the finger is now pointing differently, then you are left eye dominant. If that's the case, there are work arounds but I can't tell which will be more comfortable.
Before shooting: especially when shooting at the range, follow the projected path with the gun. I wouldn't worry about closing your eyes because when hunting, everything should come naturally. But at the range, when following the projected path, muscle memory comes in real handy.
At the range, you have to lead the target by about 4-6 feet depending upon your reactions. On a straight crossing shot, normally you would be behind the target (much faster than you) then move the gun past it. At around 4-6 feet ahead, fire then force yourself to pull ahead. In the field, everything should be automatic except the lead. You should be just seeing the bird and everything, the shouldering, the stance, the pulling forward should come naturally.
02-22-2011, 05:08 AM
#13
Spike
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Troy, MI
Posts: 36
You can practice without a gun as well......use your finger, point at a moving object (flying bird, moving car tire, ect) and as you point just ahead of the object, say "bang", either aloud or to yourself. This helps teach your mind to do the "follow through" that is so important to hitting moving targets.
Try and focus on the target and not the bead.....this next exercise will help with that. Pick a point on a wall...it can be anything: picture,wall switch, spot on the wall paper, ect. Focus on it, then close your eyes. Then bring up your finger so you are pointing at said object, with you eyes closed. Open your eyes and see how far off you are....you'll find that over time, you will get more "on the mark". Again, you are 'training' your mind to focus on the object.
Good luck....................
Try and focus on the target and not the bead.....this next exercise will help with that. Pick a point on a wall...it can be anything: picture,wall switch, spot on the wall paper, ect. Focus on it, then close your eyes. Then bring up your finger so you are pointing at said object, with you eyes closed. Open your eyes and see how far off you are....you'll find that over time, you will get more "on the mark". Again, you are 'training' your mind to focus on the object.
Good luck....................
03-03-2011, 06:34 PM
#14
Spike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Unityville, South Dakota
Posts: 17
Here's how I was coached ----
Pretend you have a broom inserted into the barrel of your shotgun ---
and you need to SWEEP the clay bird out of the sky.
May sound corny --- but I think it help with the idea of proper follow-through.
Pretend you have a broom inserted into the barrel of your shotgun ---
and you need to SWEEP the clay bird out of the sky.
May sound corny --- but I think it help with the idea of proper follow-through.
03-27-2011, 02:39 AM
#16
Spike
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Adelaide, Australia
Posts: 55
The hardest concept I found to get hold of was shooting with both eyes open!
I shoot "sporting clays", and usually nail 24-28 out of 30 with my 12 guage and around 20 with the .410.
Keep shooting, don't give up you'll get better.
Best advice I can give is: don't listen to others, develop your style.
I shoot "sporting clays", and usually nail 24-28 out of 30 with my 12 guage and around 20 with the .410.
Keep shooting, don't give up you'll get better.
Best advice I can give is: don't listen to others, develop your style.
04-13-2011, 10:53 PM
#18
Spike
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1
Here's what works best for me: Buy a flat (or atleast a few boxes) of target loads, and practice shooting clays thrown straight away (in front) of you. Start with your gun@ a 45 degree angle with the butt resting on your hip, and mount and follow through while not taking your eyes off the clay the whole time. Once you get good at the straight-away ones, start shooting them @ a bit of an angle, gradually increasing the angle til your shooting clays that are flying straight across in front of you. This is what I do every year to get back into skeet shooting. Good luck.
04-15-2011, 09:23 AM
#19
Spike
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 15
I would agree with this, shot placement in front will save you alot of time and create a more successful opportunity. However, it depends on the trajectory of the skeet.
Or you could just get a new thrower; blame it on him
Or you could just get a new thrower; blame it on him
04-17-2011, 10:51 AM
#20
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: S.W. Pa.-- Heart in North Central Pa. mountains-
Posts: 2,600
.... Keep your head down! Tight to the stock. When I start to miss a few clays, that is usually the reason. People have a natural tendency to want to raise their head up to see the bird break. It usually results in a miss. Good advice to pattern your gun, too....