Old Lynch World Champion Box Call
#11
RE: Old Lynch World Champion Box Call
I happened to be standing at Allen Jenkins' booth at the National Convention when a fellow asked him this very same question. I'll see if I can remember all the points of his answer. (for the benefit of those who may not know, Allen Jenkins was the owner of Lynch calls for many years and is now making calls under his own name. I learned a lot in our very short conversation and watching him interact with other customers)
First, try to get the chalk out of the grain of the wood. Allen recommended using 220 or 300 grit paper and LIGHTLY sanding the paddle with single strokes down the full length of the paddle. All you're trying to do is to remove chalk, not wood. One or two passes down the rail should be all that is needed there, too, if at all. ( my addition --You might try alcohol or acetone and allow plenty of time to dry before reapplying chalk.)
IF the paddle needs to be roughed up, use 80 to 100 grit paper and make a single pass across the grain. (I'm pretty sure remember him saying this because it surprised me.) Again, you want to take pains not to change any radii.
Now, (and this was very important to Mr. Jenkins) use ONLY white railroad chalk on his calls. You should be able to get it from a hardware store.
Last, if the call still is not right, adjust the screw. Start by turning the screw no more than a 1/8 turn -- even better at 1/16 turn. When you get close or go past your mark, cut the amount of turn in half or less. Use very small increments.
The paddle should make first contact forward of the crest of the rail (on the slope away from the screw) and continue to just behind where the hollowed out portion meets the endblock. If all these criteria are met, the call should be close and then you can tweak it with very small adjustments.
I know this doesn't add a lot to what has already been said, but it is very close to the words of the man who built the call. Bear in mind, though, that wood changes with age. There may come a time that the wood will simply no longer create the sound that it once did.
One last thing that I can add is that if all these steps still don't resurrect the call, you could try RainChalk for a little more bite.
First, try to get the chalk out of the grain of the wood. Allen recommended using 220 or 300 grit paper and LIGHTLY sanding the paddle with single strokes down the full length of the paddle. All you're trying to do is to remove chalk, not wood. One or two passes down the rail should be all that is needed there, too, if at all. ( my addition --You might try alcohol or acetone and allow plenty of time to dry before reapplying chalk.)
IF the paddle needs to be roughed up, use 80 to 100 grit paper and make a single pass across the grain. (I'm pretty sure remember him saying this because it surprised me.) Again, you want to take pains not to change any radii.
Now, (and this was very important to Mr. Jenkins) use ONLY white railroad chalk on his calls. You should be able to get it from a hardware store.
Last, if the call still is not right, adjust the screw. Start by turning the screw no more than a 1/8 turn -- even better at 1/16 turn. When you get close or go past your mark, cut the amount of turn in half or less. Use very small increments.
The paddle should make first contact forward of the crest of the rail (on the slope away from the screw) and continue to just behind where the hollowed out portion meets the endblock. If all these criteria are met, the call should be close and then you can tweak it with very small adjustments.
I know this doesn't add a lot to what has already been said, but it is very close to the words of the man who built the call. Bear in mind, though, that wood changes with age. There may come a time that the wood will simply no longer create the sound that it once did.
One last thing that I can add is that if all these steps still don't resurrect the call, you could try RainChalk for a little more bite.