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tuning your box call
I am one to use a pot call or mouthcall 90% of the time. I will use a boxcall on those windy days but I must admit it I don't get as sweet a sound as I like and have heard out of others with a box. It's often said that it is a good beginner call. I think anyone can make a basic turkey sound with one but I am about getting the most consistent, sweetest sound out of my calls and not just making a turkey noise.
One issue in this is proper tuning. My lack of attention to this calling area leads me to have limited understanding of effective tuning. I have various box calls and have played around with the screw, conditioning the paddle, and chalking the paddle. Never quite sure I have it to it's optimum sound. How do you tune yours? Specifically I'd be interested in how tight/loose your screw is? What type or grade sandpaper do you use on the paddle? How much chalk? Variance in type of box i.e. boat paddle, short, type of wood etc.? |
RE: tuning your box call
Same as you do - and ShallowRio did a series of post on box call use here that you may find helpful. Go back a few pages.
The other thing I did not see mentioned is I also use the pressure of my thumb on the holding hand (opposite the hand that uses the striker) as a tuning agnet. That is as I call I can slide my thumb up and down the side of the box to quiet and chang the pitch.... I hold mine with my left hand the pivot point facing down and the paddle held between my index and middle finger. JW |
RE: tuning your box call
A good box call should never need conditioning, especially to the paddle unless it actually feels slick or has a slick spot. If anything, use no more coarseness than 120 grit. Actual tuning is done through several means, sound board thickness, shaping the lip, smoothening the lip or roughing it slightly. Unless you have a slick condition any roughness will contribute to a lower pitch. Sometimes lowering the peak of the soundboards arc is necessary, I don't recommend you do any of these things nor should they be your problem. The most you should have to do is an ever so slight adjustment to the screw, 1/8 turn at a time, for your particular running style. And, if the call is made right and you run it in a manor that doesn't torque the paddle, allow the paddle radius and the arc of the sound board to work together as designed. The screw shouldn't need adjustment either. On a well made box call the paddle should set right at the top of the sound boards in a closed position, level. Many manufactured calls require the paddle to set back away from the screw end. [/align]All of what you are running into is exactly why I started building box calls myself. Manufactured box calls just don't sound right. [/align] [/align] |
RE: tuning your box call
Can't add much to that, Rio, you about covered it. I started building boxes for much the same reason. I wanted to experiment more with native woods, and mass produced calls just don't offer that variety. And to buy custom calls of those woods was cost prohibitive.
You said that the the screw should be turned about 1/8 turn, or no more than 1/8 turn and I agree with you on that. I would also add that when you get close to the sound you want, a minute adjustment can make a lot of difference. Also, one trick that I have picked up is that on a box that wants to squeal no matter what you do to it, try rosin. You can get it in a sports store or music shop. Baseball pitchers ust it for a better grip and violinists use it on their bows. Just be careful with your call and don't let it get hot. The rosin will melt at somewhere over about 90 degrees F . |
RE: tuning your box call
Good point bf, I use to use rosin on production built calls in an effert to get the bite necessary to Purr. It's only about $3 for a life supply, would be worth a shot. It is pine sap boiled to a point that it becomes solid, like maple sugar candy. You'll have to scrape off a dust and apply it with a clean finger. If you don't care for it, use some soft brilo to clean it off. Clean (oil free)pressurized air will clean the paddle also.
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RE: tuning your box call
Steve , I've spent a good number of hours with a screw driver in hand and tuning calls. Its all part of making the call your using to sound as proper as possible. Sand paper is the same and how it is cleaned. As some don't use a corse grit, I can a sure you that I do have some heavy duty sand paper and I use it every now and then and it can make a bad box sound good.
Next time we get togeather I can show you the proper way to tune a box call... |
RE: tuning your box call
[font=arial,helvetica][/color]Box Call Tune Up Tips[/color][/size]
by Rob Keck Box calls, like automobiles, need regular tune-ups. Even new boxes might need some service. Glazing striking surfaces, changing lid screw tension, or possibly dirt or moisture on the lid can cause sour notes. A turn of the screw, light sanding or a few rubs of chalk can put you back in the driver’s seat. Try These Tips: [ul][*]Using fine sandpaper, sand the box’s feathered edges on top of the lip. Lightly sand along the whole length of the curve.[*]Turn the box upside down and sand the underside (curved) part of the lid. Use medium or rough sandpaper, sanding across the grain.[*]Chalk the lid thoroughly, using a soft, talc chalk (greaseless).[*]With a screwdriver adjust the box’s lid screw so that the handle end is slightly downward. [/ul] Test the call for sound until satisfied. Pitch is an important factor to consider when tuning. Listen to a recording of wild turkeys to get it right. Wild turkey sounds are available on Spittin’ Feathers, a CD sold through the National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF), that provides a wealth of real wild turkey sounds. You can purchase Spittin’ Feathers and other turkey related products by calling 800-THE-NWTF.—Rob Keck [size=5]NWTF | Sounds of the Wild Turkey |
RE: tuning your box call
Sorry but Keck would be the last guy I would listen too!
Yes I am a NWTF member and have been for lotsa years. JW |
RE: tuning your box call
ORIGINAL: JW! Sorry but Keck would be the last guy I would listen too! Yes I am a NWTF member and have been for lotsa years. JW |
RE: tuning your box call
ORIGINAL: Adrian J Hare Steve , I've spent a good number of hours with a screw driver in hand and tuning calls. Its all part of making the call your using to sound as proper as possible. Sand paper is the same and how it is cleaned. As some don't use a corse grit, I can a sure you that I do have some heavy duty sand paper and I use it every now and then and it can make a bad box sound good. Next time we get togeather I can show you the proper way to tune a box call... I look forward to you show'n me how to tune a box call. And I've seen that write up by Keck and thought it was hog wash a long time ago. You should never sand across the grain of the paddle, that defeats the purpose of grain orientation. |
RE: tuning your box call
well I have sat beside BT against a tree and listened to the box music and it sounds sweet to me. I'll take you up on that AH.
I read that NWTF thing and sure didn't seem right to me. It makes sense Shallow what you're saying. You buy a custom made box and the guy who did it is an expert at setting it up for you. You buy a manufactured call and it's spends a couple season in your vest and eventaully you want to tune it. It's like a gutiar. I have seen some play it awesome but hand it off when it gets out of tune for someone who has theknack to tune it back. |
RE: tuning your box call
I'd get with Adrian if I were you, he's probably a master at rework'n manufactured calls.
But I would think oledick would hook him up with a good'n. I gotta believe some call maker was taken Rob Keck for the kinda ride he takes this whole country. LMAO [/align] |
RE: tuning your box call
I'm really not sure why I am getting knifes tossed at me when I expressed my opinion on what I do with box calls.
I open the same packages as everyone else that buys a call from the shelf and I use up a tag or two each season too. I never cut up any call makers here and don't understand why this thread has turned like this , butI guess the rest of us turkey hunters are not hunters with out a custom call :eek: I never read this from Rob Keck but I don't believe he is misleading anyone. I have heard a awefull lot of custom box calls sound a little off and as well have seen a lot of custom call makers make a mess at trying to run them too... |
RE: tuning your box call
I missed something. Some underlying tones.
No worries BT. I am quite sure our "manufactured" calls out of the plastic will work fine for us this spring;) You can tune my call and we'll post pics of the bird it kills ;):D:D |
RE: tuning your box call
I missed something too...[/align]
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RE: tuning your box call
I'm still using the same Lynche's world champion box call that I bought whenI was 17. I'm now 41 and have never used any other call except my own voice. I have chalked my call maybe 5 times in 24 years and it still does the job year after year. Of course new rubber bands are a seasonal thing, but otherwise I have done nothing to it.I tried mouth calls once but couldn't get them to make a sound. I have no idea how many birds I've killed over the years, but between being able to kill two each spring and two each fall, but not being much of a fall hunter I'd guess 60. The other 36 I might have taken were lost to missed seasons, illness or taking others hunting and not taking my own gun, which is something I do more and more. I see no reason at this point that it won't perform another 24 years of service, unlessI break it. It has spent 90% of it's time riding on the dash of my truck, which hasn't seemed to hurt it either. I now wish that I had taken more pics of my turkeys over the years but only have maybe 15 and only a few good ones. My best pic is at www.hiddenvalleyhuntingllc.com
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