OntElk

I am one to use a pot call or mouthcall 90% of the time. I will use a boxcall on those windy days but I must admit it I don't get as sweet a sound as I like and have heard out of others with a box. It's often said that it is a good beginner call. I think anyone can make a basic turkey sound with one but I am about getting the most consistent, sweetest sound out of my calls and not just making a turkey noise.

One issue in this is proper tuning. My lack of attention to this calling area leads me to have limited understanding of effective tuning.

I have various box calls and have played around with the screw, conditioning the paddle, and chalking the paddle. Never quite sure I have it to it's optimum sound.

How do you tune yours?

Specifically I'd be interested in how tight/loose your screw is? What type or grade sandpaper do you use on the paddle? How much chalk? Variance in type of box i.e. boat paddle, short, type of wood etc.?

JW

Same as you do - and ShallowRio did a series of post on box call use here that you may find helpful. Go back a few pages.

The other thing I did not see mentioned is I also use the pressure of my thumb on the holding hand (opposite the hand that uses the striker) as a tuning agnet. That is as I call I can slide my thumb up and down the side of the box to quiet and chang the pitch....

I hold mine with my left hand the pivot point facing down and the paddle held between my index and middle finger.

JW

ShallowRio

A good box call should never need conditioning, especially to the paddle unless it actually feels slick or has a slick spot. If anything, use no more coarseness than 120 grit. Actual tuning is done through several means, sound board thickness, shaping the lip, smoothening the lip or roughing it slightly. Unless you have a slick condition any roughness will contribute to a lower pitch. Sometimes lowering the peak of the soundboards arc is necessary, I don't recommend you do any of these things nor should they be your problem. The most you should have to do is an ever so slight adjustment to the screw, 1/8 turn at a time, for your particular running style. And, if the call is made right and you run it in a manor that doesn't torque the paddle, allow the paddle radius and the arc of the sound board to work together as designed. The screw shouldn't need adjustment either. On a well made box call the paddle should set right at the top of the sound boards in a closed position, level. Many manufactured calls require the paddle to set back away from the screw end.
[/align]All of what you are running into is exactly why I started building box calls myself. Manufactured box calls just don't sound right.
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barefoot

Can't add much to that, Rio, you about covered it. I started building boxes for much the same reason. I wanted to experiment more with native woods, and mass produced calls just don't offer that variety. And to buy custom calls of those woods was cost prohibitive.

You said that the the screw should be turned about 1/8 turn, or no more than 1/8 turn and I agree with you on that. I would also add that when you get close to the sound you want, a minute adjustment can make a lot of difference.

Also, one trick that I have picked up is that on a box that wants to squeal no matter what you do to it, try rosin. You can get it in a sports store or music shop. Baseball pitchers ust it for a better grip and violinists use it on their bows. Just be careful with your call and don't let it get hot. The rosin will melt at somewhere over about 90 degrees F .

ShallowRio

Good point bf, I use to use rosin on production built calls in an effert to get the bite necessary to Purr. It's only about $3 for a life supply, would be worth a shot. It is pine sap boiled to a point that it becomes solid, like maple sugar candy. You'll have to scrape off a dust and apply it with a clean finger. If you don't care for it, use some soft brilo to clean it off. Clean (oil free)pressurized air will clean the paddle also.
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Adrian J Hare

Steve , I've spent a good number of hours with a screw driver in hand and tuning calls. Its all part of making the call your using to sound as proper as possible. Sand paper is the same and how it is cleaned. As some don't use a corse grit, I can a sure you that I do have some heavy duty sand paper and I use it every now and then and it can make a bad box sound good.

Next time we get togeather I can show you the proper way to tune a box call...

Rebel Hog

[font=arial,helvetica][/color]Box Call Tune Up Tips[/color][/size]

by Rob Keck


Box calls, like automobiles, need regular tune-ups. Even new boxes might need some service. Glazing striking surfaces, changing lid screw tension, or possibly dirt or moisture on the lid can cause sour notes. A turn of the screw, light sanding or a few rubs of chalk can put you back in the driver’s seat.
Try These Tips:
[ul][*]Using fine sandpaper, sand the box’s feathered edges on top of the lip. Lightly sand along the whole length of the curve.[*]Turn the box upside down and sand the underside (curved) part of the lid. Use medium or rough sandpaper, sanding across the grain.[*]Chalk the lid thoroughly, using a soft, talc chalk (greaseless).[*]With a screwdriver adjust the box’s lid screw so that the handle end is slightly downward. [/ul]
Test the call for sound until satisfied. Pitch is an important factor to consider when tuning. Listen to a recording of wild turkeys to get it right. Wild turkey sounds are available on Spittin’ Feathers, a CD sold through the National Wild Turkey Federation (NWTF), that provides a wealth of real wild turkey sounds. You can purchase Spittin’ Feathers and other turkey related products by calling 800-THE-NWTF.—Rob Keck

[size=5]NWTF | Sounds of the Wild Turkey

JW

Sorry but Keck would be the last guy I would listen too!

Yes I am a NWTF member and have been for lotsa years.

JW

Rebel Hog

Well I quess you don't agree with Adrian either?

ShallowRio

LOL, Adrian, How many times did I say a "GOOD BOX CALL" in reference to what should need to be done?
I look forward to you show'n me how to tune a box call.

And I've seen that write up by Keck and thought it was hog wash a long time ago.
You should never sand across the grain of the paddle, that defeats the purpose of grain orientation.