Patch question
 

I am new to this game and have been trying to figure out what I want to do for lube and patches. I generally understand the patch thickness and the various lubes and will find what works best for me. I see some folks use pre-cut round patches, lubed fabric they cut with a knife, pre-cut square patches and even a video of a fellow using a strip of fabric cut part way so square patches tear off easily. What is the advantage/ disadvantages for starting out?

Starting out, I think most of us used pre cut patches. Then as we got more into the sport we began to experiment and try different things. I personally cut my patch at the muzzle. That way I always get a perfect centered patch. Also its cheaper, and if you get pre lubed, pre cut patches, and your not an avid shooter, they can and will go sour on you sometimes. I can remember when I had pre cut lubed patches stored in a Tupperware bowl one time. I finally wanted them, opened the bowl and about dropped over from the stink.

Also pre cut, pre lubed patches begin to basically decompose with time. And if they get old you get more tearing and over char when you load and shoot them. Old patches will blow apart when you shoot them.

When I load I start with clean and unlubed 100% cotton pillow tick. A simple cloth purchased at Wal Mart in bulk. Right before shooting I can add the lube of my choice and then load patch and ball. Everything if fresh and the cloth is nice and strong.

Good luck.

There's not much to add to Cayugad's post on this topic. I too use pillow ticking and cut it into about 1 1/2" squares. You can buy pre-cut round patches that are unlubed and lube them as you go. Some even just use spit to moisten the patch prior to loading.
Should you decide to purchase some pillow ticking, which btw is .018" thick, be sure to wash it before you use it as a patch.

You can buy pillow ticking already washed and ready to use. It also comes in .015 and .018.

The best lube i've found for strips of pillow ticking you're going to use to cut at the muzzle is Ballistol. Mix in a bowl Ballistol and water in a 50/50 ratio. Put the strips of cloth in the bowl and let soak for a few minutes. Take them out and lay them out to dry. The water will evaporate and leave the perfect amount of Ballistol on the cloth. Save the mixture in a closed bottle and it can be used until gone.

Thank you for the responses. I got some .018 pillow ticking and also some linen that is about .014. I did not think about washing them before use. I will wash both and do some experimenting. I don't have Ballistol but I will look for it.

Moose Milk is what I use, but I have used Mink Oil, Liquid Wrench, Bore Butter (not recommended for patch ball), spit, olive oil mixed with a little water, Pam cooking spray, Ballistol (if you can stand the stink!), Lanolin hand cleaner (this worked better then you might think. Its for mechanics and such to dry clean their hands), you name it and I have probably shot it one time or another.

Moose Milk

A general purpose black powder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 4 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching material in this twice and let it dry between dunks on an old window screen. This makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle of moose milk liquid, it's a GREAT liquid lube as is. I carry it in an OFF Pump bug spray bottle and just spritz a patch. You can use it just like that if you want.

Be sure when making the Moose milk to mix the alcohol and castor oil together first. Then add the witch hazel. Add all of this to the water and shake. Finally after that mixture is all together, add the Murphy’s oil soap. Shake it and it turns white, like milk! *** (many leave the witch hazel out. I have forgotten to add it and the stuff worked just fine.)

I use it dry in the winter. Spritz the patch material and then screen it. When it dries the oils are in the cloth and it will not contaminate the powder charge. On the range I use the wet method. Just spritz the patch material and then use it like that. Don't soal the match material, just a light spritz.



Spritz the strip of cloth. If too wet, ring it out with your fingers.



Lay the strip over the muzzle and center the ball in the strip of cloth.



With the short nose on the ball starter, knock the ball and patch under the crown of the muzzle.



pinch the material together and with a sharp knife or even scissors, cut the patch material. You now have a perfectly centered patch. And you finish driving all that into the barrel with the short starter long end, where you will then finish it off by seating the enter works with the ramrod.

What rifle are you shooting?

Your are man Cayugad..I still use your grinding oil mix for patch lube...50 yds with peep sight 6 o,clock hold i touch the balls not bad for peep and open sights ..

those.50 reading glasses in amber are just super I can now see my sights and use my pistol too......

I have a 54 cal percussion Thompson Center Hawkin and a 50 cal percussion early 1960's Sears Roebuck & Co. kit gun

"Your are man Cayugad..I still use your grinding oil mix for patch lube...50 yds with peep sight 6 o,clock hold i touch the balls not bad for peep and open sights ..

those.50 reading glasses in amber are just super I can now see my sights and use my pistol too......"


4 ounces NAPA Auto Parts #765-1526 Soluble Cutting & Grinding Oil
1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap
7 ounces 91% Isopropyl alcohol
16 ounces tap water


Before I went to the Castor Oil I mixed and shot a lot of the Grinding Oil Moose Milk. And like you, it worked really good. Never had a complaint. In fact I still have a bottle of the NAPA Grinding Oil around the house. I was thinking of experimenting on making a more solid conical lube out of it and see how it works.

That mention of the 50/50 reading glasses .... that is a great idea. After the cataract eye surgery the front sight is a little blurry. That might solve the whole problem. thanks!!