Let's talk locks
#1
Let's talk locks
I have 2 T/C flintlocks and although I have no trouble with either, one is noticeably faster than the other.
I'm wondering if I were to replace the coil spring would it improve the speed (lock time)? Or is there another way to speed it up?
I'm wondering if I were to replace the coil spring would it improve the speed (lock time)? Or is there another way to speed it up?
#3
I was just reading some interesting articles on modifying the touch hole (vent liner).
One article showed an illustration showing a drilled cone on the outside (toward the pan) and a slight chamfer inside (toward the main charge) leaving about a 1/16" long flash channel. The flash channel dimensions varied from .050" in .45 caliber up to .062" - .070" in .54 calibers and up. The flash channel holes were gradually increased using numbered bits. A touch hole modified in this manner, according to the author, didn't matter if the pan charge was "banked" against the touch hole or away from it. In fact ignition was actually faster when banked against the TH! The reason was that the pan charge was virtually directly in contact with the main charge so there was no fuse effect.
One article showed an illustration showing a drilled cone on the outside (toward the pan) and a slight chamfer inside (toward the main charge) leaving about a 1/16" long flash channel. The flash channel dimensions varied from .050" in .45 caliber up to .062" - .070" in .54 calibers and up. The flash channel holes were gradually increased using numbered bits. A touch hole modified in this manner, according to the author, didn't matter if the pan charge was "banked" against the touch hole or away from it. In fact ignition was actually faster when banked against the TH! The reason was that the pan charge was virtually directly in contact with the main charge so there was no fuse effect.
#4
There's probably a limit to how big you can make the touch hole before it blows out too much when fired.
I've always thought flintlocks shoot softer than caplocks. All I can think of is the pressure that's lost out the touch hole.
I've always thought flintlocks shoot softer than caplocks. All I can think of is the pressure that's lost out the touch hole.
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: gilbert az
Posts: 1,168
polish all your parts that move or come in contact with one another that will speed up your lock time cutting down on drag time also keep your lock clean and lubed up however you do that !
#6
Bronko, one thing I have noted in every TC I've ever owned was weak hammer springs. They were sufficient but on the verge of too weak for my taste. That includes my Hawken side lock percussion. Don't know if they have fixed that since S&W took them over but I put in new aftermarket springs in both my PH and my Hawk. Much better feel to them. I've never owned a TC flinter and I don't think I have even shot one before but if all their other springs are on the weaker side, I would have to imagine they kinda stuck with it on their locks for the flints.
#8
Bronko, one thing I have noted in every TC I've ever owned was weak hammer springs. They were sufficient but on the verge of too weak for my taste. That includes my Hawken side lock percussion. Don't know if they have fixed that since S&W took them over but I put in new aftermarket springs in both my PH and my Hawk. Much better feel to them. I've never owned a TC flinter and I don't think I have even shot one before but if all their other springs are on the weaker side, I would have to imagine they kinda stuck with it on their locks for the flints.
#9
For the PH I bought all the "accurising" stuff, shims, hammer spring, hing pin through Mike Bellm. The Hawk I can't remember exactly where but I got it from someplace that GR recommended. I'll see if I can track down where I got it and let you know. Was 15 or so years ago but I'm thinking it MIGHT have been through EABCO but not 100% positive on that.
#10
I was just reading some interesting articles on modifying the touch hole (vent liner).
One article showed an illustration showing a drilled cone on the outside (toward the pan) and a slight chamfer inside (toward the main charge) leaving about a 1/16" long flash channel. The flash channel dimensions varied from .050" in .45 caliber up to .062" - .070" in .54 calibers and up. The flash channel holes were gradually increased using numbered bits. A touch hole modified in this manner, according to the author, didn't matter if the pan charge was "banked" against the touch hole or away from it. In fact ignition was actually faster when banked against the TH! The reason was that the pan charge was virtually directly in contact with the main charge so there was no fuse effect.
One article showed an illustration showing a drilled cone on the outside (toward the pan) and a slight chamfer inside (toward the main charge) leaving about a 1/16" long flash channel. The flash channel dimensions varied from .050" in .45 caliber up to .062" - .070" in .54 calibers and up. The flash channel holes were gradually increased using numbered bits. A touch hole modified in this manner, according to the author, didn't matter if the pan charge was "banked" against the touch hole or away from it. In fact ignition was actually faster when banked against the TH! The reason was that the pan charge was virtually directly in contact with the main charge so there was no fuse effect.
That's pretty much what the RMC liners are like. As far as lock speed, I'm sure coil springs aren't as fast as leaf springs but I've never had any trouble with any of my T/C locks. I sent one back once because the half cock notch broke on a tumbler and it was repaired free of charge. I have went through some of them and de-burred/polished all the bearing surfaces with fine India and hard Arkansas stones and I do believe this helps, but I don't shoot competition so I don't fret if my locks are a gnat's hair slower than others. I keep them lightly oiled, I never use any type of gun grease that may get stiff in cold weather.
BPS