Be my tailor
 

29" draw I'm 19, 6'2" not of the marathon build. My compound is at #60 and if it went higher I would go higher (of course we know that this probably means its right were it should be...stupid 19 year old egos geez!!!)

I wanna start in trad because I honestly get more enjoyment out of shooting my bow than I do bowhunting. The challenge is gone. No, I can't hit an apple at 100yards. And I would be dishonest if I didn't admit to thinking there's just something dang cool about watching all those mideviel war movies.

So here's my question: Differences/Advantages to the types of bow (long, Reflex-Deflex, recurve) What length? Too short and you get finger pinch...too long makes for a "mild" bow??? #45 too much weight? I'd rather start just a hair too heavy, as I'm young/athletic enough my strength will build rapidly. Should I start out with #50 and just pay my dues of having to start with short sessions of shooting? I'm left handed also.

When I do bowhunt, deer will be the largest animal. Likely I'll try turkey, small game, and bowfishing first....would a lighter bow be better suited for these?

So...be my tailors and fit me to a bow:)

RE: Be my tailor
 

I am not great at giving advice to others, since I only know my interests. Being that, as it may, I would go with a 50# bow of the recurve style. Get a bow that is 60 or 62". 50# will be measured at 28" draw. Add 2-3 lbs. per inch over that. You will likely be pulling 53# at your draw length. This is sufficient for any deer that you may want to hunt. Going any heavier will just cause you to learn bad habits. I would recommend either a three finger shooting glove or a tab. My personal favorite is the glove. I do switch between a calf hair tab and glove however. I think that the calf hair tab gives a smoother release than the glove. Concentrate on shooting form and keep practice sessions short at first. Try to shoot six good arrows your first time out. Take your time. Get close to your target. No more than ten yards away. Pick a spot on your target. Concentrate on that spot. While keeping your concentration on that spot, draw back smoothly, hit your anchor point, then relax your string fingers keeping your hand on the anchor point. follow through is very important. After the shot, hold your bow hand and anchor point for a 2 second count before allowing them to relax. It's like throwing a ball or shooting a slingshot. You look where you want the arrow to hit. Don't try to aim. Take time between shots, don't rush. Like I said, shoot six good arrows, then put it away for at least an hour. Make each shot count. In no time you will be shooting more and more. Don't allow accuracy to suffer due to excessive shooting. You will eventually be able to shoot more shots per session before your accuracy falls off. I didn't mean to sit down here and write a book. I just like to see someone get off to a good start.

RE: Be my tailor
 

I'm incredibly guilty of this one ... [&o]
It's true though , you won't get better if you keep shooting after this point , boy don't I know it !

RE: Be my tailor
 

soilarch, first congratulations for the change. I'm sure you will find traditional very enjoying. Your draw length with trad will usually be 1-1 1/2 inch shorter then coupound. Most shelve bows are set at 28" so you will be right in the ballpark. I would also suggest going with a recurve at first since the "feel" will be a little closer to your compound then a longbow (get that later). I would say go with a 45 pound though. Because if you strugle with something higher it will most likely effect your accuracy and form. You can also go higher later. 45 is plenty to take down a deer. You may want to get a used bow at first, use it a few years and get just what you want.

Also get Ferguson's book. There is a forum started here that you can get some reviews on. It's a great beginner book.

Let us know how you make out.

RE: Be my tailor
 

Get to some shoots, try out some bows, and see what feels comfortable to you. There are so many variations to longbows and recurves these days that there is no one "right" answer. Some longbows feel like recurves, some recurves have a longbow grip, etc. etc. Generally speaking, I'd go with a recurve that is 60" or longer, or a longbow that is 64" or longer--how long depends on the bow design. You want to get a bow you can comfortably control--I rather get 10# less than I can control than 5# more. Your draw length will probably be around 28", depending on the riser style, your form, etc. 40# @ 28" will shoot through any whitetail, as long as your equipment is right and you do your part. Honestly I'd be more comfortable with 45#, just in case, but it's better to get a lung with 40# vs. a gut shot or miss with 50+ #. A 40-45# bow will work great for everything you mentioned.

Chad

RE: Be my tailor
 

50# is perfect start, the longer the bow the smoother it will draw 60'or 62' is good. Anchor point is the most important aspect, start off with a dozen arrows aday. Shooting too many promotes bad habits till you gain strentgh and endurance.Your first kill will be like hitting the lottery!! Good luck and great choice

RE: Be my tailor
 

Thank you for the answers, they are pretty much what I expected. Here's question numero dos

Bowfishing....is there a way around not having a reciever in the riser for stabilizers/reels? Do I need to go out of my way to look for this feature or can it easily be dealt with? I've tried to think of alternatives and my mind is coming up blank.

RE: Be my tailor
 

You can get a tape-on drum type "reel", or you can get the Great Northern Gadget Adapter that will strap onto the bow and has the inserts you need.

Chad