Rate some good recurves to buy
 

Not looking for a Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge deal here. Some background......I have not owned a recurve bow since 1977 and never hunted with one. For that matter I have never even shot a longbow.[&:] My very first bow was a Browning recurve bow bought at a garage sale for $30. I shot it for about 6 months before it exploded one day(top limb broke hitting me in the head)[:-] Browning replaced it for free but I sold it, thats the last piece of traditional equipment I ever owned.

I am seriously thinking of purchasing a new recurve bow(love the beauty). I figure 50 lbs. @28" is the way to go but not sure. I don't want to start out with one and then have to buy another to hunt with as I progress(hopefully). I currently hunt with a 65% letoff compound bow at 65 lbs. using a release. Its been about 12 years since I shot fingers. I used both a tab and glove. One more thing......I don't want to spend a ton of money. Also, do you recommend a takedown over non-takedown?

Part of my reasoning for wanting to hunt with traditional equipment is this............I'd love to say I am/was able to take a deer with a recurve bow. I will most likely still hunt with my compound some, but harvesting with traditional would be exciting and very self-satisfying. I don't care if its a buck or doe. As much as I love my compound, I love bowhunting to the point that at least in my eyes taking my first deer with a traditional type bow would be the ultimate. Maybe I am not explaining my reasoning well, its just something I want to do while I still can.

RE: Rate some good recurves to buy
 

I think you're explaining your reasoning as well as any of us could. Really, it's one of those things that needs no explanation to someone who understands. ;)

I like the sleek lines of a one piece and don't think anyone can really do a decent job of keeping house without one, but a takedown is much more handy and versatile. You can take it apart and stuff it in a suitcase if you need to. You can buy extra limbs in different draw weights for target shooting, small game, deer, or bigger game. They generally have a heftier riser section than a one piece, which helps stability and accuracy.

For a quality bow at a reasonable price, ChekMate Hunter or Hunter II. Hands down. Other great takedown bows, but pricier, are made by Bob Lee, Mike Palmer, Great Plains, Brackenbury, Black Widow of course (but the money![:-])... There are so many good bowyers out there that it's practically impossible to list them all. Frankly, for the prices Martin and Bear are asking for their mass produced bows, you can get a custom for about the same cash. Especially with ChekMate.

Be sure to keep an eye on the classifieds and Ebay too. A lot of recurve shooters are worse than compounders when it comes to changing bows and you can often get a lightly used bow for a substantial discount.

RE: Rate some good recurves to buy
 

Cmag,

I did just what you were talking about this last year, and to say it's gratifying is an understatement. I killed a doe at 6 yards with a longbow on Oct 9th and it felt like I had never killed a deer before, the adrenaline rush was unlike any I had ever had before when shooting wheels.

Drop me an e-mail and I think I have some ideas for you about bows, and can maybe hook you up with someone in the UBI to get ya started so to speak.

I would post a couple of web sites for you to visit but Chad scolded me for that before so I will do it via e-mail if youd like. I know of a pretty decent recurve for sale made by an Illinois guy that is not high priced and from wht I understand is quite a shooter so let me know....

[email protected]

Shane

RE: Rate some good recurves to buy
 

For what it is worth, here is my suggestion. 4 years ago I was in a similar circumstance so I purchased a montana Long bow. I very much enjoyed it in fact it really sparked my interest more so in archery. I wanted a better bow so I sold it for next to nothing and purchased a Bear Ferguson Long Bow. I liked that bow so much over the following year or so that I wanted to upgrade to a Black Widow. I just received it and it is incredible. Now I will sell my Ferguson bow for what I am sure a significant loss.

The point: If you have any feeling that this will become something you will really enjoy, I would look for a used higher end bow. If I could add up the money I have lost due to upgrades on equipment, I would be much further ahead if I started out nearer the top. Besides, if you purchase a medium priced bow and don't like archery, sell the bow and take about a $200 loss. If you purchase a higher end bow and don't like archery, sell it and take about the same $200 loss.

RE: Rate some good recurves to buy
 

I think Art pegged it--we know what you mean.

Shane, if you want to post links to bowyers, businesses, and such that is fine. It's just against forum rules to post links to other sites (competitors), or a business you are affiliated with.

Coug, there are gobs of excellent bows on the market. Nobody will be able to say what bow will be just right for you though--that is a decision you will have to make yourself. Since it's been a while, I'd start out cheap/used. You don't know yet just what you like or what works best for you. We can give you an idea on bow length and such, but only you will be able to decide what grip, woods, etc. you like best.

You will also want to start out light. I know you rather not have to start with one bow, then go to another, even possibly a third, but you will save yourself a lot of trouble in the long run, and if you start out with a heavier weight bow you will most likely wind up buying another anyway, then have to work on fixing all those bad habits you developed. You need to start with a bow you can control comfortably so you can concentrate on your form without struggling. I'm not saying a bow you are comfortable pulling back for a dozen shots, but one you can work with for a while and not get tired.

Price, even reputation, is not the determining factor. You do want to get a bow (especially if you buy new) that has a good reputation and a good warranty, but if the bow doesn't fit you that isn't worth much. You may run across some no-name bow for $50 at a pawn shop and it be the best bow for you. Not to say an expensive bow won't shoot well for you too, but you don't have to spend a fortune to get a great bow. Until you get back in the groove, you won't really know what shoots best for you and what doesn't. I could say "my bow is the best I've ever shot" and be 100% truthful, but that doesn't mean it will be the best for you.

I wouldn't go with a short bow. They are generally harder to tune and less forgiving. What is short depends in part on what your draw length is. For someone with a 26" draw, a 58" bow isn't short. For someone with a 31" draw, it is.

A benefit to buying used (as long as you keep it in decent shape) is you can usually get your money back, or real close. My experiece has been different than STA's--bows don't generally loose a certain dollar amount, but rather a percentage. Pay $800, sell it for $600, you lost 25% (which isn't bad, generally speaking, on a new bow). Pay $400, loose 25%, and you lost $100, etc. I haven't done much trading in the last few years, but generally used bows, in good condition, were bringing 50-75% of the new cost.

I was shooting hard and heavy for 3 or 4 years before I bought my first custom, and even then I only kept it for a few years. I learned more and my taste changed. I've been with my current #1 for about 8 years now, and have no interest in changing at this point. I may change my mind one of these days, but I doubt it.

Take your time, shoot several if you can, make the decision on how it feels to you. Later on, when you have it all together and have a better idea of what you like and don't like in a bow, you can use that knowledge to make the best choice in a new bow.

Chad