RE: need a little help, please!
 

I didn't catch the 26.5" long arrows--even a 145 grain point probably won't be enough to get those arrows to work.

Chad

RE: need a little help, please!
 

When shooting a recurve, you might want to try to not think like a compounder. Hold on, don't get up in the air everybody:). I shoot compounds also and, the will I loose speed thing comes up with me to. Good arrow flight, a smooth bow and hitting what you aim at is better than speed. I also agree with everyone else. You are not drawing more than 25" and your getting in the low 40's. Keep at it!

RE: need a little help, please!
 

well, i just measured my compound arrows.....28 inches... so did the old time who set me up screw-up? i just bought 120$ worth of the se 26-1/2 arrows yesterday... so i think i'm pissed.

whats my next step, boys?

thaks
moose:(

RE: need a little help, please!
 

Moose,
Well first thing is you should realize everyone shoots differently. As Asbell's says in his book - some guys can get good flight with 2016's and some need 2117's, etc. I shoot extremely stiff arrows out of my 50# recurve - 2117's. I don't like arrows smaller in diameter than 21/64's and refuse to shoot like 19/64's dia arrows. 20/64's are OK too, but I just have such good luck shooting 2117's I have stuck with them.

Just remeber - try diff arrows until YOU find one that works well for YOU and YOUR shooting style.

RE: need a little help, please!
 

well, here is the plan. i think i'm gonna buy the equipment, and make my own. with all the guys i know that bowhunt, i will have plenty of victims to try my "skills" on.

running to the archery shop for new arrows when i want to expiriment aint gonna cut it, and i think it would be a good winter project.

i WILL figure this out, i am determined.

now, heres another question... what are the pro's and con's of wooden vs aluminum arrows? i will be hunting whitetail deer. my max distance i hunt is 20yds.

i'm sorry for all these questions, but you guys have been great! thanks for puttin up with this stupid newbie.

thoughts?
-m oose

RE: need a little help, please!
 

Moose, Nothin' stupid about you or your questions at all my friend - keep 'em coming!

At some point many serious archers/bowhunters decide to start making their own arrows or doing their own arrow repairs. Just makes sense. You can experiment with feather placement, helical direction, colors, etc. You can truly make your own custom arrows.

Wood vs. Alum - thoug call. Both have advantages in some respects.

If you decide to get into wood arrows your gonna need a decent spine tester. I used to buy my cedar shafts in bulk by the 100's. You'd be amazed even though you order them to be - say, 55-60# spine you'll actually get a variation! Some will be say 45-50, some 55-60, some 60-65, etc.

Alum is superior as far as being and remaining straight and unaffected by humidity changes, warping, etc. And refletching an alum arrow is easy.

Drawbacks: They bend and once bent are pretty impossible to fix adequately. They clank and are noisy when striking each other. They lack the 'warmth' of traditional look & feel of wood arrows.

Wood is a pretty medium to work with. Nothing smells quite like cedar shafts in the house when making. Its fun, takes time - but is a labor of love. You can truly make your own custom arrows with various colored cap dips, cresting designs, colors, etc. Archers have their choice today of water-based stains or oil-based stains. About any color you can imagine is available today. One can get really decent arrows made but takes a bit more time, effort, and dedication with wood than alum or carbon due to the realities of the wood medium. However, periodic checking of your arrows for straightness is necessary as are inspections for cracks, etc. for safety. Also, wood requires more tools to make them. Spine testers, dipping tubes, stains, sealers, paints, taper tools, etc.

Having said that - I love wood arrows. Nothing beats making arrows during the winter 'off season' as making up some arrows or as a Pre-Season task in preparation of the upcoming hunting season. Sure gets the old heart pumping with excitement! Just a lot of fun IMO.

Whatever you choose - just realize than getting outfitted with tools will cost you some money - just like everything else in life. Skiing, scuba diving, golf - whatever - requires equipment and costs money. Arrow making is no different. However, once purchased this tools will last a lifetime.

PS Don Adam's makes one of the finest Spine Testers I have ever used.

RE: need a little help, please!
 

Starting out anyway, I'd stick with aluminum. You can get them at any archery shop, and they will be the same regarless if you get them in NY or TX. Wood arrows have their own particulars, and you need to get your shooting established without having to wonder if it's you or your arrows. If you do get wood, get them from a reputable vendor. You will pay more for good shafts, but you can get them hand spined and weighed, avoiding having to invest more time and money checking the spine and weight yourself. Buying in bulk, and from some vendors, will get you arrows that are electronically spined. This machine spines the arrows however they happen to land in the chute. Getting the true spine requires the arrow grain be aligned right, and the same, for every arrow. If you rather go with wood, you don't have to break the bank getting a lot of equipment--cap dips, cresting, etc. look really nice but won't make the arrows shoot better. You can improvise cap dips with paint, and use a wipe-on finish that doesn't require dip tubes. The best, and most durable finish I've ever used or seen, is an epoxy wipe-on finish. I can get you the recipie for it if you want. It's not as fast as dipping, but much, much better than any dipped finish I've used.

You can save yourself some money fletching, cutting, and installing inserts on your own, and it doesn't require a lot of equipment. You can get a tube cutter type, or invest a bit in an arrow saw--if you plan to do a lot, get a cut-off saw. Fletch tape is great for aluminum, will save you a lot of time, and you won't need anything more than a good single fletcher. You can use a torch, alchohol burner, or a candle for installing inserts--I like the alchohol burner--cheap for the burner, cheap fuel, does a great job, and lasts (unless you drop it).

I shoot wood, and prefer wood, but starting out aluminum will eliminate some variables.

Chad

RE: need a little help, please!
 

LBR,
I'd love that 'recipe.' I've always used Bohning paints and glues and had great results with them. However they have a strong smell that requires careful ventilation and is sure to upset the wife if done IN the house!

I agree - homemade dip tubes can be made of PVC pipe, etc.

No wonder my 'bulk' shafts always ahd such vast variation amongst them!

RE: need a little help, please!
 

Scoobie, send me an e-mail to [email protected] and I'll get it to you. I have a printed copy, but don't think I have it saved on my coputer anymore. I'll get my buddy, who came up with it, to forward it to me, then I'll send it to you. It's a variation of the Jay Massey epoxy bow finish--you use 5-Minute epoxy and acetone. The stuff is tough as nails, doesn't stink anywhere near as bad as Bohning laquers, and it pretty easy to apply. It does take a little more time, as you apply a few coats and it has to dry between coats, but IMO it's well worth it. You don't need any dip tubes at all--you can use stain or spray paint for the caps, and if you want to crest you can use Testors or Odds-n-Ends paint for that. It's a pretty cheap finish too, and works great.

Chad