RTY

Bow Hunters:

I inheirited Bear recurve, the Grizzly model, from my father in law. I've already turkey hunted with it (no success) and am wondering if it has the power to deer hunt with. I'm new to the bow hunting scene and probably wouldn't have ventured in if I hadn't received this nice bow free. Also, I need advice on arrows. I inheirited a hand full of wooden arrows with broad head and they fly pretty well. I'm guessing recurves need a faril light arrow. Is that right? What should I look for when buying new arrows?

Let me knowl.

Live well, be safe.
Rich

c903

First things first, RTL.

Take the bow to a bow shop and have a skilled person examine the bow for twisted limb(s) and condition of glass on the limbs.

Have a new (Dacron) string put on the bow.

Do not use those wood arrows if they a very old. You could end up with a broken shaft sticking out of your bow arm.

To select the correct spined shafts, you have to know the poundage @ what draw-length to know what actual draw-weight you will pull, and your draw-length. Most likely, that Griz is a xx# @28" draw. If your draw-length is shorter than 28", you have to subtract poundage. If your draw-length is longer than 28", you have to add poundage.

Unless worn off or painted over, somewhere on the riser section or a limb you should see the specs of the bow. In writing, the marking will look something like "AMO 58" 55#" which means that the bow is a 58" bow and has a 55# pull at (probably) 28".

Once (if) the condition of the bow is found to be in good condition, have your draw-length established. This (draw-length) is usually done on a very light draw-weight bow that most archery shops have. However, I advocate that a person's draw-length be established on the bow the person intends to match (length) shafts to.

Also, if your draw-length is much greater than 28", and the bow is a short bow (56" to 60"), the bow may "stack" on you, which (stack) means that the bow will pull hard to a full anchor.

Since you are still in the novice stage, I recommend shooting aluminum shafts.

And that is just a very, very, small tip of the iceberg as you become a "shooter."

RTY

c903

Hey, thanks much. This is truly helpful information, and much appreciated.

I found these numbers on my bow
9R10767
AMO # 56
43#

I'm guessing the top number is the serial number?
The other numbers would mean it's a 56 inch bow and 43# pull at, probably, 28 inches.

The Bear web site says these bows have a flat black finish, but mine is flat green. Under the patent numbers is the date 1953. I'm wondering if that would be the manufacture date.


The new sporting good store in town has a bow shop. I'll take it out there and see what they say. Thanks again.

Rich

c903

RTY:

That would be a 56" bow with a 43# draw-weight @28". A 56" bow can be tough to shoot. However, the lower draw-weight will provide some forgiveness. Finger-pinch when at full draw can be a problem.

As for the 1953 patent mark, that does not mean the bow was actually made in 1953. The bow could have been made earlier or later than 1953.

Here is a link that will tell you some things about your bow.

http://www.neoreality.com/archery/beargray.htm

As for 43# for hunting; with the right shaft and the right broadhead (recommend cut-on-contact heads), the bow will get the job done. I shot several deer, and once dropped a 245 lb buck, using a 40# American "Cheetah", using early cone-head, 6-bladed, Wasps.

Wahya

I agree that the bow should be examined to make sure that it's sound. However, unless this new bowshop has experience with recurves/longbows, on a personal level, they won't be much help to you. If there is a range near you where other traiditional archers/hunters hang out and shoot, you may want to take the bow to them and let them examine it for you. They at least wouldn't have an ulterior motive, that is unless they collect bear bows, then beware the low offer price lol.

What is your draw with the bow? What condition is the string in? First thing I'd do after determining if the bow is a shooter is I'd get a new string for it and I'd get my draw measured. The string is easy. LBR makes a powerful nice string and he moderates this board. Getting your draw measured isn't all that hard either. Take a yardstick, put your back up against a wall with your shoulders touching the wall, place the yardstick with the 1" mark against the center of your chest and reach forward with both arms towards the other end of the yardstick which should look like it's stuck in your chest. With your fingers extended and arms fully extended, put your hands together on the yardstick and look to see where your fingertips touch it. That will be very close to your draw. Make sure your shoulders are flat against the wall or you'll get a false reading.

Now that you have a close idea of what your draw is, you can determine the real weight of the bow at your draw length. If it reads 43#@28" and your draw is 30", you can add an additional 2 1/2# per inch of excess draw, making the bow 48#. However, if you only draw it 26", then you'd subtract 2 1/2# per inch of draw you are short of 28", which would make the bow approximately 38# at your draw length. Or, you could have the bowshop measure your draw length and then weigh the bow at your draw for exact figures.

Unless your draw length is over 28", I don't know if the bow will stack much or pinch your fingers all that bad. Stack means that the bow will add weight unevenly and the further you draw it, the worse it will stack and add more weight than the 2 1/2# average per inch of draw. Finger pinch will cause release problems, which will affect accuracy in an adverse way.

The weight of the bow is perfect for learning. Not too heavy, but like was said, you'll need properly spined arrows for proper arrow flight. The spine of the arrow determines how much bend the arrow has as it goes around the riser of the bow, as well as how well/quickly it stabilizes after leaving the bow.

Once you got a shooter and a few arrows that are spined for the bow, then you'll need to start the practice sessions to become consistently accurate with it. Best thing to do is practice, but get yourself a book or two on traditional archery and go from there. Lots of good books on the market. Once you can hit what you're looking at consistently and have your hunting techniques down, as well as your tracking skills, you're ready to hunt with it. BTW, turkey are one tough critter with a curve/longbow. You get yourself one with a stick and you've accomplished something in my book. Have fun, it's a great sport and an even better lifestyle.

RTY

Wahya:

Thanks fot the good information and advice. I went to the bow shop today and while he couldn't tell me much about the bow's condition, he did measure me for draw. I draw 27 inches. So i got some arrows cut to that lengths. The arrows have a Redhead logo on the "feathers" and the logo on the shaft is Carbon Fury 60.75. I got six arrows for $25 with field points.

I shot the bow some last year with the arrows that came with it, and I did get a new string on it but I have no idea what the string is made of. I got the string from a shop in a nearby town that does a lot of bow stuff. They put a metal thing on the sting so I'd know were to noch the arrows.

So now I just gotta go shoot a lot. There probaly isn't a cardboard box safe from me within fifty miles.

Live well, be safe.
Rich

Wahya

I don't know much about carbons. Maybe someone can chime in and let ya know how they spine as compared to the 40-41# of the bow. It's been my experience that most proshops that don't know much about recurves will use the charts put out by Easton or other arrow manufacturers that cater to the compound crowd and the arrows end up being WAY overspined for the recurve. This will cause arrow flight problems and accuracy problems as compared to a properly spined arrow. Yep, feathers are what you want. The plastic vanes tend to fly rough coming off of the bow.

Have fun. Them cardboard boxes can be cantankerous. You might want to shoot dirt clods and dandylions instead. Just don't use field points. Get a few zwickey judo points and have at it.

lcoast

Rich, to be on the safe side, I think I would want to confirm that the new string is Dacron (B-50). Probably is but if it isn't, bad things can happen.

=keith=

RTY

Wahya and Keith:

Thanks for the continuing help. Haven't taken the time yet to go out and shoot the new arrows yet. I can call the shop I got the string from and see what they can tell me. I can see that I need to get a book on this subject and study up. In the mean time can you help me understand what "spine" means.

Thanks again.
Rich

c903

Ditto on Icoast's advice. It you were given a "Fast Flight" type string, the bow will be damaged. Also, if I visited a bow shop and nobody at the shop knew generally determine the condition of a recurve or longbow, I would not put much faith in any other advice or bow service they provided. [:'(]

RTY, there are several ways to check for twisted limbs. The easiest method for you would be to check to see how the string aligns on the limb sections of your bow.

1. Without pulling back the string, the string should be resting dead center on the recurve part of your limbs. If the limbs are grooved where the string loops attach to the tips, the string should be in the grooves. If the string is not dead center on the limbs and/or resting out of one or both grooves, a limb or limbs may be twisted.

2. Now slowly draw the bow and watch for any twisting of the limbs as you pull back. Also, watch for the string to go off center of the limbs. If any limb twists, no matter how slight, a limb or limbs may be twisted.

3. Slowly let the string back down and watch for the string to lay to the center of the limbs, as it should. If the string comes down off-center of either limb, but centers when string is down, a limb or limbs may be twisted.

A twisted limb can sometimes be observed as the bow is sitting static. However, a weak limb that is not set and cannot be seen without drawing the bow, may become obvious when you draw the bow.