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want to start
i decided this next hunting season to hunt with recurve.have a friend thats going to lend me a browning 45#bow to practice with.but i want to get my own very soon looked at a martin(i think)at the bass pro shop, 50#felt good,$349or $379 around there.
i want to stay around 500 dollars how limited does that make me for a good bow.any good bows you might suggest would be helpful, dont know enough about recurves to by one off of e-bay been looking just afraid.i'll probably shoot aluminum arrows tipped with zwickeys or that style. one last thing for now i have some shoulder problems how gentle are recurves on your shoulders.i will be shooting right handed left eye dominate ,the bad shoulder is the right one.thats the reason for shooting righty. thank-you robert |
RE: want to start
Hello, the martin bows are great bows. the one peice hunter is a well liked bow. check-mate is onother. but for the price you said you can almost get a bow from all the bowyers out there. But for price and function Martin is a good choice.
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RE: want to start
Don't know your physical stature, but if you are having some shoulder problems, I wouldn't go much over 50# that's for sure. Over-bowing will definitely not do that shoulder any good.
Lots of good recurves out there for less than $500. I haven't shot the Chek-Mate Falcon one-piece recurve, but suspect it would provide a smooth draw and some very nice shooting at a 60-64" length, and a great way to get started for around $200. I have a CM T/D recurve that was only $350. I like T/D's as they have more riser mass, less hand shock, and easier to hit what you're pointing at, in my opinion. I think the new Martins are way over-priced, again that's my opinion. Heck, for that matter shoot that Browning for awhile, get some arrows flying good, find out if you can shoot well at 45# comfortably. In the meantime go to local shoots/pro-shops, check out different recurves others are shooting. |
RE: want to start
I'd suggest a recurve, especially a takedown, for the reasons Pinelander mentioned. I can tell a huge difference between my longbows and my recurves, both while I'm shooting and the day after. Not nearly as many aches and pains in my shoulders after shooting 'curves - even when they draw a good bit heaiver than my longbows!
The effect of heavier draw weights on my arthritic fingers though... that's a different can o' worms. ;) |
RE: want to start
I prefer my Browning 47#. Only thing is it is a little bow @ only 50"'s. But I kinda like the versitility.
Good bow and will hunt with it for years to come... Unless something strikes me to get a BlackWidow. |
RE: want to start
I am a compound weenie - however I purchased a PSE OPTIMA for my 15 yr old daughter. It is a sweet shooting bow but is way to easy (20#) a draw for me. Same draw length 28". I like it so much I want to either purchase one for myself OR (which i prefer) build one (I have the tools) for myself.
Any suggestions as to 1. Type of wood for the riser 2. Type of wood for the limbs 3. Draw weights per wood type 4. Glues for laminate limbs 5. Poundage for hunting I just put my bow (compound) into the shop for a new set of cables and a string and I am seriously missing my daily routine. I want to shoot my bow. I am crying here.:( |
RE: want to start
ORIGINAL: Poluke I am a compound weenie - however I purchased a PSE OPTIMA for my 15 yr old daughter. It is a sweet shooting bow but is way to easy (20#) a draw for me. Same draw length 28". I like it so much I want to either purchase one for myself OR (which i prefer) build one (I have the tools) for myself. Any suggestions as to 1. Type of wood for the riser 2. Type of wood for the limbs 3. Draw weights per wood type 4. Glues for laminate limbs 5. Poundage for hunting I just put my bow (compound) into the shop for a new set of cables and a string and I am seriously missing my daily routine. I want to shoot my bow. I am crying here.:( |
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