Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
12-28-2003, 12:04 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Parma OH USA
Posts: 136
Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
Hey all, i'm wanting to try traditional but need a few questions answered first...i noticed that some bows have a 45# draw weight...and was wondering if that was enough to kill a deer, and also which recurves are good for a beginner?? Thanks!!
12-28-2003, 04:29 AM
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: west central wi USA
Posts: 2,242
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
45# is plenty to kill a deer. I killed my first 2 bucks with a 45# recurve. On the very first buck, The broadhead went through the shoulder blade and into the spine. Dropped him, but required a followup shot. Too much poundage will make the bow difficult to handle and can lead to sloppy shooting. When shooting instinctively, you need a bow that fits you well. It should point naturally. You'll have to try a few to determine that for yourself. Look for one that has the arrow as close to your hand as possible. That means usually, shooting off the shelf. When the arrow is close to your hand, pointing the arrow is alot like pointing your index finger.
12-28-2003, 07:57 AM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Walker LA USA
Posts: 443
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
Just remember that most traditional bows are rated for a weight at 28".If you draw less than 28" the weight will be less.For example a 45# @ 28" bow will probably draw only 40-41# @ 26".
CB
CB
12-28-2003, 08:48 AM
#4
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Warner, Ok.
Posts: 24
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
Bow weight is but one consideration in penitration while 45# is plenty to get pass thur arrows sharp broadheads ( I prefer 2 blade cut to the point ) arrow flight and shot placement. As far as a good bow for a beg. a good bow from any of the major manufacture will get you started. As stated in an earlyer post it is best to shoot off of the shelf and pratice pratice pratice you will find it is more like fun than work.
GOOD HUNTING & GOOD SHOOTING
GOOD HUNTING & GOOD SHOOTING
12-28-2003, 08:57 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Parma OH USA
Posts: 136
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
Thanks guys, i appreciate the feedback. I have looked around a bit and the pse impala looks like a great recurve. As far as the draw weight though...do you have to be in exact draw or can you shoot a bow w/ a longer draw length and what if they don't make a bow that has your draw length?? Thanks again!!
12-28-2003, 09:20 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Parma OH USA
Posts: 136
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
Got another question...stupid one but... do you actually shoot off the rest? Does that take more out of your fletchings?? And what arrows should I get? Would carbon be ok? Thanks!
12-28-2003, 09:22 AM
#7
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
45# will do the trick, IF: you put the arrow in the right spot, your broadhead is razor sharp (preferably 2-blade), and you have good arrow flight. A wobbly arrow will rob you of penetration, and is often overlooked. I like 8-10 grains of arrow weight per pound of draw weight for a quieter shot and penetration.
Personally, I don't care a bit for PSE traditional bows. I haven't even looked at them in several years, so they might have improved--but I was turned off by them bad enough that I don't care to even try them again. If you want an off the shelf bow, I recommend a Martin. If you draw over 29", you will have to order one custom made for your draw or it's going to stack. Martin will do this for you, but if you order one of their higher-end bows, you can go ahead with a custom bow and pick your woods for the same price or less (depending on what you order). You might look around and check out classified ads and find a bow that was made for a longer draw, without having to pay the new price. The bugger of ordering a custom bow just starting out is you don't yet know what you want in that bow.
If you can, go to some shoots and check out some bows. At the larger ones, there will be vendors that will be happy to let you check out their products--Cloverdale, Denton Hill, the Kentucky Klassic, etc. Lots of individuals will generally let you try theirs out also. I plan on being at the KK and Cloverdale, along with as many others as I can--your more than welcome to try mine out if you can make it.
Chad
Personally, I don't care a bit for PSE traditional bows. I haven't even looked at them in several years, so they might have improved--but I was turned off by them bad enough that I don't care to even try them again. If you want an off the shelf bow, I recommend a Martin. If you draw over 29", you will have to order one custom made for your draw or it's going to stack. Martin will do this for you, but if you order one of their higher-end bows, you can go ahead with a custom bow and pick your woods for the same price or less (depending on what you order). You might look around and check out classified ads and find a bow that was made for a longer draw, without having to pay the new price. The bugger of ordering a custom bow just starting out is you don't yet know what you want in that bow.
If you can, go to some shoots and check out some bows. At the larger ones, there will be vendors that will be happy to let you check out their products--Cloverdale, Denton Hill, the Kentucky Klassic, etc. Lots of individuals will generally let you try theirs out also. I plan on being at the KK and Cloverdale, along with as many others as I can--your more than welcome to try mine out if you can make it.
Chad
12-28-2003, 09:28 AM
#8
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
Not stupid questions at all--man, I wish I'd had someone to ask when I started shooting--would have saved me a LOT of trial and error!
Some bows are made to shoot off the shelf, some are not. I prefer shooting off the shelf, but some prefer a flipper rest--just personal preferance. The bows with a big flat shelf are generally meant to be shot with a flipper rest, the ones with smaller crowned shelfs are made to be shot off the shelf--but you can use a flipper on these if you want.
Shooting off the shelf will wear on your fletchings a bit, but usually nothing major. This is why we shoot feathers instead of vanes--the feathers will lay down as they pass the riser and won't interfere with arrow flight.
What arrow spine you use depends on the bow weight, your draw, point weight, etc. Arrow material is personal preferance--carbon is fine, but make sure you have enough weight. You don't want to shoot super light arrows on a trad bow, especially if you have a longer draw--it will damage the bow.
Chad
Some bows are made to shoot off the shelf, some are not. I prefer shooting off the shelf, but some prefer a flipper rest--just personal preferance. The bows with a big flat shelf are generally meant to be shot with a flipper rest, the ones with smaller crowned shelfs are made to be shot off the shelf--but you can use a flipper on these if you want.
Shooting off the shelf will wear on your fletchings a bit, but usually nothing major. This is why we shoot feathers instead of vanes--the feathers will lay down as they pass the riser and won't interfere with arrow flight.
What arrow spine you use depends on the bow weight, your draw, point weight, etc. Arrow material is personal preferance--carbon is fine, but make sure you have enough weight. You don't want to shoot super light arrows on a trad bow, especially if you have a longer draw--it will damage the bow.
Chad
12-28-2003, 08:46 PM
#9
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wheat Ridge Colorado USA
Posts: 60
RE: Welp...wanna try traditional and need a few ?'s answered first!!
People have been "shooting off the shelf" for thousands of years when the outcomes were a good deal more important that whether or not you nail a whitetail. Just don't try it with vanes unless you want to indulge in some creative nocking point locator positioning.
As for poundage, it's probably the least important consideration. The most important consideration is the broadhead because that's what kills the game, not the bow. Then you need to get an arrow shaft that will propel it accurately with stability from whatever bow you have. The head needs to cut well and deep in the right spot, neither more nor less. The game won't know how fast the head cut, especially if you miss.
As for poundage, it's probably the least important consideration. The most important consideration is the broadhead because that's what kills the game, not the bow. Then you need to get an arrow shaft that will propel it accurately with stability from whatever bow you have. The head needs to cut well and deep in the right spot, neither more nor less. The game won't know how fast the head cut, especially if you miss.
